NICALM

Interested in hub caps, maf sensor and iac sensor

Here is a great write up on the relays. 2 of them are for the headlights and the 3rd is for a/c. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/ At the time of the write-up the 4th (green) relay was un labeled. Good to know it's for the fuel pump.

Thinking of going to look at this car tomorrow. Seems too good to be true. Can anyone get me a carfax on this one? I've tried the "backdoor" look up but am unable to get it to work. http://www.royalfiveauto.com/1997-Subaru-LegacyWagon/Used-Wagon/COLUMBUS-OH/219/1641527/Craigslist/7653490/Details.aspx Vin# 4S3BG6853V7625417 Thanks in advance!

Out of curiousity, I swapped the PS drum over to the rubbing DS and the rubbing continues, so its not the drum. The rubbing stops if I pull the drum out just the slightest; but when you go to torq the castle nut down the rubbing comes back. I just replaced the DS rear wheel bearing last summer. I guess it could be the problem, the only hesitation I have with this is the noise only appears at certain spots when the drums (either one when placed on the drivers side) are rotated. I tore the brakes and backer plate off and re-installed them, hoping for some resolution, but nothing. I guess I could just drive it and it would eventually wear down the high spots. Maybe there is a little play in the mounting bolts that hold the backing plate to the trailing arm? I guess I'll investigate that tomorrow. TomR, thanks for the offer. not sure if that would do any good at this point though.

This may sound strange, but please stick with it. Awhile back, my rear wheel and drum "fell off" my 91 Loyale while I was driving home from NY on the Interstate. This destroyed the backer plate and exploded the wheel cylinder but no other real damage. Didn't see where the wheel ended up, just greatful I was able to control the car and pull over. My dad drove up and we trailered the car home. I ended up finding a backer plate and hub off an old BRAT (I think, or could have been a wagon) my stepdad used to have, put it on and found a tire and life was good. I wanted to eventually replace the plate to incorporate the automatic adjuster piece like it originally had and finally sourced one last summer but never got around to switching it over. Last week the timing belt broke on me and this past weekend I had the privilage of changing belts for the first time. Piece of cake with Miles Fox's tutiorial on Youtube! Fired right up! Went to take it for a test drive around the block and had no brakes unless I pumped them a few times. After further inspection I found the wheel cylinder decided to blow out on the "parted together" side so I decided to replace the backer plate and cylinder today. Everything went well exept the hub is rubbing on the backer plate making a hell of a noise while you're driving. I took it all apart and verified what the noise was, tried "adjusting" the backer plate with a hammer and screwdriver but can not get it "aligned" right. If I pull out the hub just a little on the axle, the noise vanishes. My question is, do hubs wear out? Would replacing the hub solve my problem? is there a differance between the length of the drum centers on 2WD and 4WD and maybe I have a 2WD hub on a 4WD backer plate or vice versa? I'm a little bit stumped on this one. but would like to get this fixed as I need this for my DD. And like many, money is tight right now so just buying parts is not in the cards right now.. ($50 for a new 4WD hub is expensive for me right now but could manage if concensus is that's my problem).

This might be a "noobi" question, but here it is. I need new front tires on my 4WD wagon. Tread is almost non-existant. Rears look decent for now. I last replaced all 4 tires 5 years ago. Not sure why the fronts wore worse than the rears. Can I replace only the front 2 for now? Money's a little tight right now so trying to save a buck. I've heard on Subarus, that you should always replace all 4 at the same time. Is this rule of thumb just for AWD? Can't afford to screw-up the drivetrain since this is my only daily driver. As we all know, winter's around the corner, so I need new rubber soon. Any insight would be great.

Thanks for the Great info....but now I'm ignorant as to which is better and why for this application. Can you please educate? :-\

do you have the part # for the bearing? I'm in need of the same part. Thanks

Excuse me for asking a question in your thread but it is related to your problem. Is there a Temp sensor and a Temp Sending unit on these motors? My loyale is idleing low recently and I'm wanting to change the sending unit as suggested to see if that helps. Advance Auto Parts lists a Temp Sensor for $20 but Auto Zone lists the Sensor for $170. why would there be such a huge differance?

My Loyale starter has been giving me grief for about 2 years now. I'd be interested to know what model of Legacy this starter came from so I could ger a reman of the same type to try. Any info GD?

Can we get a pic posted? Im curious what a convertable looks like.

check the headlight relays under the dash above the fusebox. As for your turn signals, check the bulbs

I have a 91 loyale spfi 4wd 5sp. I had issues with the starter in that it would only "Click" when turning the key. After push starting it numerous times, I finally broke down and ordered a reman starter. this worked well for about a week and now occasionally the starter "whirls" but does not make contact with the flywheel. My Grandmother had a similar issue with her 88 DL wagon. Her issues was the "clicking". Her country mechanic installed a ford selinoid which rectified her issue. I tried that too hoping to solve the problem, but to no avail. Could I have a bum reman starter? Could this be an issue with the ignition switch? I've had multiple issues with the electrical on this car. In 4 years I've replaced the alt. twice. The first time output was non existant; The second time output was 14V+ and blew out the headlights. I do not have any "idiot" lights on the dash, EVER (even at startup) my dome light does not work when doors are opened. the door indicators on the "car" on the dash, do not work. Last winter the 4WD indicatior lights worked intermittently. The defrost indicator does not work but the defrost does. I really enjoy the Loyale. and wish to get these items all fixed (myself) so any guidance on getting them fixed would be swell.

I had a similar problem with my 91 Loyale. I had no dash lights and my marker lights/tail lights would not come on unless I flipped the parking switch on top of the steering column. This was caused by a bad relay under the dash above the fuse box. There are 3 or 4 relays under there. one for each headlight, one for the 4wd. one of the headlight relays include the dashlights. do a search on USMB for headlight relays.

I wish cars were that clean here. Take care of it!

That is one GREAT Looking Roo. Im partial to this gen wagon and you seemed to have found quite a gem! keep up the amazing work and ill keep following your posts:grin:

I live by the light. When it comes on I know I have 3 or 4 days of going to work before I run out of gas. (only 10 miles round trip) I have felt worried once or twice when it didn't come on when I thought it should but being a subaru, it's never let me down and eventually did light up. 1991 Loyale 4WD

I once had a 78 or 79 wagon that had "body work" done to the front fenders. They were ingenious in the fact that they used roofing shingles to replace the sheet metal and bondo'd over the top of them. Lasted for a while, but up here bodies don't last long.

I had an old 85 Hatchback that would hardly run, (would seem fine until getting up to about 25MPH then just chug along) here it was the fuel filter that need changed. Just got done reading the whole tread and am amazed at the progress on Rook. (Actually suprised when I realized you were a female and tackleing this project)