Hi all,

I am about to lift the engine out of my 96 Outback; 2.5 DOHC. I bought the newest style separator plate, new bolts and the grey anaerobic sealant. Is there a minimum or maximum period of time between applying the sealant and bolting it up?

I am a GM guy mostly and I seldom ever assemble things without some type of gasket. So my paranoia makes me afraid I will squeeze too much out if it hasn't had enough time to setup. So I figured I'd ask first, since I don't really want to pull this engine again next week!

 

Pat G

Welcome to USMB.

 

Don't overapply sealant, no wait necessary. Assemble immediately.

 

I usually let it set overnight to set up before adding fluids/starting it up.

Thanks... it'll get to set after assembly... I forgot to get a new lower rad hose, thermostat and serp belts !

Permatex Anaerobic or Loctite 518. RTV is also ok but I prefer the anaerobic flange sealants.

 

GD

I've used both Permatex anaerobic and Ultra Grey RTV, haven't had trouble with either. I apply a thin bead, about 1/8th inch wide all the way around, smear out any uneven spots then stick it on the engine.

Cleanliness is key with this, as is with any gasket seal, It MUST be clean and dry. NO residue from oil or cleaners. Wipe the block and plate down with acetone or brake cleaner and allow them to fully dry before applying sealant. Blow any cleaner/ oil out of the bolt holes with compressed air to prevent anything from bleeding out of the holes as the bolts are tightened.

Thanks everyone. I put it all together yesterday and drove it around. All is well.

 

Pat G

Well I think I am pulling this engine again. :-\ It is still leaking oil. The separator plate was leaking, and it was the original plastic type. So I figured i was golden. I had purchased a new rear seal, but since it was dry there I did not install it, based on stories that it's best to leave it, unless leaking already. So after driving the car for a few days, basically the same leak only a lot less volume. It is impossible to see up where it is coming from, but it seems just like before. right above the crossmember from the area where the engine and trans mate up.

 

I want to get it sealed up. So I will pull the engine, and see if it is the separator (maybe I didn't get the sealer smooth ?). However, if that is not leaking I want to already have everything else I might need. I read here about cam end seals and valve cover gaskets. Anything else? or any other tips? I really want to get it done once and for all, so anything that might be needed, I want to have on hand. Thanks for your help.

 

Pat

Someone recently reported the little access hole gasket was leaking.

 

Looking at the back on an engine IIR up and to the right a bit, I've never had one leak there myself.

Someone recently reported the little access hole gasket was leaking.

 

Looking at the back on an engine IIR up and to the right a bit, I've never had one leak there myself.

 

It should be easy to tell, I had the entire area all clean before I put the flex plate back on. Thx

Infact I don't even know if it has a gasket or ultra grey.

 

Maybe someone who has actually had that leak can say for sure.

The diamond shaped plate on the left.

 

It has an O ring under it that hardens to plastic just like all the others on these engines. Use an impact driver to get the screws out, they're in there pretty tight.

Part number: 806931020 Its about $2 at the dealer.

 

IF the rear main is leaking, DON'T remove it until you have a new one ready to put on. Make absolutely sure the new one gets installed to the EXACT same depth as the old one. Take pictures and measurements if you have to. Clean the crankshaft carefully to remove any crud on the end or under the area where the seal rides before trying to install the new seal. Lubricate the seal inside and out with plenty of fresh motor oil or assembly lube then install.

The diamond shaped plate on the left.

 

It has an O ring under it that hardens to plastic just like all the others on these engines. Use an impact driver to get the screws out, they're in there pretty tight.

Part number: 806931020 Its about $2 at the dealer.

 

IF the rear main is leaking, DON'T remove it until you have a new one ready to put on. Make absolutely sure the new one gets installed to the EXACT same depth as the old one. Take pictures and measurements if you have to. Clean the crankshaft carefully to remove any crud on the end or under the area where the seal rides before trying to install the new seal. Lubricate the seal inside and out with plenty of fresh motor oil or assembly lube then install.

 

Yep - there was a small leak at that access plate. The part number had been updated with 806931070. I am in the middle of the job now, also replacing the cam cover gaskets and oil pan gasket as long as the engine is on the stand.

 

Pat

The diamond shaped plate on the left.

 

It has an O ring under it that hardens to plastic just like all the others on these engines. Use an impact driver to get the screws out, they're in there pretty tight.

Part number: 806931020 Its about $2 at the dealer.

 

IF the rear main is leaking, DON'T remove it until you have a new one ready to put on. Make absolutely sure the new one gets installed to the EXACT same depth as the old one. Take pictures and measurements if you have to. Clean the crankshaft carefully to remove any crud on the end or under the area where the seal rides before trying to install the new seal. Lubricate the seal inside and out with plenty of fresh motor oil or assembly lube then install.

Stripped screw heads. Cut flat blade screw heads with a dremel cutting wheel. Stripped those. Then drilled into the screws center until I could bash a allen head socket with an inner diameter the same as the drill bit into the hole. Was going to JB weld a bolt onto the head and turn that, but this was cheaper. This is a stupid design for a wrist pin access plate, I`m glad the rest are plugs. Going to see if they have that size with a different style head such as an Allen or Robertson. It's a ferrous screw not aluminum like I thought for anyone interested in welding on them.

An impact driver is nearly essential for anyone who regularly works on Subaru engines.

 

Not to be confused with an power impact tool, this is the kind that you hit on the end, and it slowly turns the screw.  Each "impact" on it, rotates the end about (?) 1/8" inch. 

If you think those screws are bad, try the brass ones on the back of the oil pump!  

be sure to replace the pcv valve as excessive crankcase pressure can force leaks from the baffle plate and oil pan.