mwbean Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Was having trouble with my tranny shifting beween 2nd and 3rd took it to a transmission shop and now they are telling me the tranny is shot:banghead: found brass shavings in it. now facing a rebuild or find a good used one. Is it worth fixing. I just bought in November and paid 1,500 for it and put abut $300 in it doing tune up, flushing engine, etc. the wierd thing is, the tranny fliud did't smell burnt but it was overservced by two quarts. since i didn't know the maintetce history on it i went ahead and drained the tranny and changed the fluid and found a few brass particles but noting to get all worked up about. I looked up on this forum and was told that the hesitation shift betweeen 2nd and third was probably a brake band adjustment. So, it this a Thanks everyone in advance for your input and advice!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 92 Outback? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Legacy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 i have a 95 legacy wagon with 119000 miles and my tranny has been over full for over 5 months now....no problems. just a thought. you can find these trannys a dime a dozen.... buy a used one and replace it if its giving you a hard time..... i bet the band has broken leaving no more adjustment..... i honestly wouldnt know though..... good luck!!! -jarrid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I am no A/T expert, but I do read a lot of posts here, and have done so for quite a while. In this situation, I have read that it is far better to swap in a used trany vs. trying to repair it. Should not be difficult to find a good used trany from a wrecking yard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 is the car drivable? sometimes they just have a poor shift point, other times they are nearly undrivable. just drive it if it's operating fine. if the transmission is bad, replacing the trans with a used one isn't that bad of a choice. they don't fail that often so used is a good option and they're usually reasonably priced because demand is low. http://www.car-parts.com your area looks expensive, $450 cheapest. i can get one for $200. with the prevalence of subarus in your area you can probably find one on the board here or locally for sale. post in the parts wanted section of this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwbean Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Sorry its a 1992@ legacy wagon with a 2.2 engine 4speed 4eat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwbean Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 sorry about the lack of info my bad. what i need is for a 1992 Legacy AWD 4speed automatic non-turbo 2.2L engine the car has 218k miles no maintence history bfr i bought in in nov 2011 dumped all the trans oil out of the pan but did't smell burnt or black etc did have a slight shimmering of brass but when i let it settle out for a few days did have a few small shavings in the bottom of the pan. the guy at the trans shop I took it too said maybe a bad planetary gear. bit it only shifts early between the 2-3 upshift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Have you tried any transmission additives? I'm not sure if any work, but it may be worth a try. How many times did you drain and fill it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Every single transmission shop can pull the pan on any car and find brass and tell you you need a tranny. They are evil places. Pressure gauges with a test drive unless something obvious would be part of a reputable tranny shop diagnoses or at least a test drive. Get the car out of there, and what exactly were your symptons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwbean Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) Every single transmission shop can pull the pan on any car and find brass and tell you you need a tranny. They are evil places. Pressure gauges with a test drive unless something obvious would be part of a reputable tranny shop diagnoses or at least a test drive. Get the car out of there, and what exactly were your symptons. Nipper, I agree with you 100% in my experience most transmission shops are unethical almost always their pat responce is "you need a new transmission and oh by the way you can finance it for 25% intrest. the story on this car is I bought it last november and it looked ok at first glace but the jerk put black tape over the check engine light and being a noob to subaru didn't relaze it untill i bougth it had multiple codes on the cumputer. I changed the vaccume sensor and o2 sensor and that seemed to clear most of the real codes and nusance codes. when I checked the tranny fluid it was over-sevices by two quarts and based on the condition of the rest of the car I drained all the fluid out and put in new dextron III and some lucas trans fluid treatment. the real complaint i have is when in drive it shifts about 19mph from 2nd to 3rd if i continue to accelerate the engine reves up to about 2000 rpm and it finally goes into third. however, if I manually put in second and when it gets to about 22 mph i manuall shift it into 3rd and let off the gas for a second it shifts smoothly and shifts normally. this only happens on the upshift from 2nd and third. if i happen to forget to do the mallual shift, and it does the rev up roune for multiple times i get a cel code # 13. I was told that possibly doing a brake band adustment would help but neither transmission shops thought that would help. hope that helps. Edited February 24, 2012 by mwbean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 code 13 is shift solenoid 3. It may be sticking or dying. When you manually shift you are operating the valves in the transmission via a linkage over riding the electrics. Sounds like you just need a solenoid (hopefully) as it is failing electrically somehow. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33331 scroll down to the pdf file. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwbean Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) code 13 is shift solenoid 3. It may be sticking or dying. When you manually shift you are operating the valves in the transmission via a linkage over riding the electrics. Sounds like you just need a solenoid (hopefully) as it is failing electrically somehow. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33331 scroll down to the pdf file. yes, using the shifter/linkage to override the the normal shifting if it was in "drive" BTW- when "cold" at least driving the the first few blocks bfr getting on the freeway it works fine this early shifting if you would call it that happens after it warms up and driving in stop and go traffic Edited February 24, 2012 by mwbean addition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Fluid is thicker when cold. Can be the solenoid is leaking hence why the thinner fluid escapes till some pressure builds up and forces the shift when warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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