So I've got an 85 GLW, and have determined that I have at least one bad headgasket. At this point I have two options, I can either do the fix with the engine in the car and struggle with a few things, and have the car done in a week or two. Or I can wait on the long block that a friend of mine will give me, also with bad hgs. Fix that one on the floor, and then swap the two. I don't NEED the car back, but it would definitely make life easier on my wallet, my truck is terrible on fuel. The car has been sitting for a few months already, so should I just go ahead and fix it with engine in car?

So I've got an 85 GLW, and have determined that I have at least one bad headgasket. At this point I have two options, I can either do the fix with the engine in the car and struggle with a few things, and have the car done in a week or two. Or I can wait on the long block that a friend of mine will give me, also with bad hgs. Fix that one on the floor, and then swap the two. I don't NEED the car back, but it would definitely make life easier on my wallet, my truck is terrible on fuel. The car has been sitting for a few months already, so should I just go ahead and fix it with engine in car?

 

I just did a set of HG's on my fiancés ea82. I only could work on it during the weekends because i have school and I still Almost had it done in the first weekend. But desided to wait one more. So it took me a total of 4 days. With the motor in. ( also considering it was my first HG jod.) I would have had it done sooner but it took me all day to put the rocker arms and cam case on, BUT since then I found out to use electrical lub grease to hold them on. Sould have no problem doing it with the motor in.

Pretty easy, but Thats just my 2 cents.

 

-prwa

is this an EA82? they are REALLY easy to do in the car, i actually prefer doing them in the car. i don't pull the motor unless there's a compelling reason to do so. i even do the 6 cylinder motors in the car which are more work - more valve cover, cam carrier, and head bolts - times two for each side - lots more bolts and i still don't pull the motor on those either. the 4 cylinders are really simple.

 

the most annoying part of headgasket jobs is just cleaning up all the mating surfaces, valve covers, cam carriers, heads, block surface, etc. that's my least favorite part of the job.

 

a 10mm ratcheting wrench is about the only trick/tool you need and it's only for 2 bolts - the lower rear valve cover bolts on each side. that tool is wonderful there.

 

get Subaru intake manifold gaskets, the aftermarkets can be flimsy cardbboard like junk. i typically use Fel Pro headgaskets - other headgaskets require the headbolts to be retorqued which is annoying.

 

others have recently mentioned an alternative to retorquing that involves torquing the bolts then letting the engine sit overnight before going through a retorque process. you could ask or find that thread if you want and use something other than the fel pro head gaskets.

Youve got a few options like you have mentioned.

 

I have a bad HG on my car. Found someone who wanted to buy the motor and have me do the headgasket on it for X amount. I will then use that X amount to put extras on another motor I have that Im going to rebuild for my car.

 

The HG on EA82s look easy, I watched GD do it, and after one time, believe I can do it on my own with no troubles. I though, am a fan of removing the engine for this procedure. Easier to keep track of bolts easier to clean parts, and you can inspect anything else that may need to be done. If youre going to have it out, do it right.

 

Just my .02 but I think you should wait for the longblock, and fix it the HG on that motor, then swap them out in a few hours (really, as an amatuer I think I can get my EA82 out in about 30-45 minutes)

I did the HGs on my EA82, in car, in about a day. Brakleen and scotch brite pads to clean the mating surfaces, get the heads milled/resurfaced/decked, and use quality gaskets and heavy duty engine reassembly lube. And don't forget to reseal the oil pump!

I pull the engine personally... in my opinion if you know the engine in your car is otherwise good, I would pull it, reseal it and put it back in. If you find something bad (like metal in the oil pan) then fall back on the friends engine. Of course make sure you do both head gaskets even if only one is leaking.

Anybody ever use this kit? Are they any good.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-94-SUBARU-LOYALE-XT-RX-GL-1-8L-HEAD-GASKET-SET-EA82-/140480218007?_trksid=m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6657669949942308676

Thanks for the information guys. I think im going to just leave the engine in the car and get er done. seeing as i dont have a hoist to do the engine swap with or anywhere to put a second engine to work on. I do however, have the advantage of being able to just close the hood on the car and leave it be over night while im working on it though.

 

Few more questions though. what sort of grease or whatever should I use to re-attach the rocker arms? any specific brand or such to get? and the oil pump reseal, what all does that entail?

Thanks for the information guys. I think im going to just leave the engine in the car and get er done. seeing as i dont have a hoist to do the engine swap with or anywhere to put a second engine to work on. I do however, have the advantage of being able to just close the hood on the car and leave it be over night while im working on it though.

 

Few more questions though. what sort of grease or whatever should I use to re-attach the rocker arms? any specific brand or such to get? and the oil pump reseal, what all does that entail?

 

The rocker arms don't need grease to function, just a small (small) dab to hold them in place while you put the camshaft/housing back on. I just use whatever is on hand that is petroleum based--NO SILICONE. You want whatever it is to dissolve in the oil when you start the car. The last time around it was vasoline from the medicine cabinet. Just don't tell the missus. And don't use too much, just a light coating is enough--you don't want to get it IN the lifters (though it probably wouldn't hurt anything), just a smear around the tip.

Understood. Definitely need to get me a chilton/haynes manual. Is the "right stuff" brand sealed/liquid basket a good choice? It's worked great on my Toyota and I made sure to buy the stufff tailored towards import cars.

 

My parts list so far:

-Felpro permatorque hgs

-Felpro or dealer intake and exhaust gaskets along with cam tower o rings and valve cover baskets.(obk25xt is local to me and says has had zero problems with the felpro while using a LIGHT coat of silicone.)

-oil pump reseal kit

 

what did I miss?

You missed that intake gaskets should be dealer only. The Felpros are often crappy paper gaskets. It is not worth the risk, even with silicone. They might cost a few bucks more, but compared to redoing them.....

Edited February 29, 201214 yr by robm

Fair point rob, however, the relationship i have with my parts guy is such that I actually get to look at my.gaskets before buying them. So I get to look for stamps and feel the quality in my hand before I throw downa penny for them.

Lucky! Where I live, I pretty much have to take what they have, as it took 2 to 10 (!) days to get here and there won't be another on the shelf across the street. I try to make sure I get the right stuff the first time.

So I ginally got a chance to tear into the car today. went from a complete enginge to a short block in approximately 4.5 hours. cant tell by eyeball where the head gasket failed, but I definitely had milkshake spewing out the vents. machinist is open again on Monday and will be dropping my heads off to hime first thing jn the morning.