Well I would have searched for this, but apparently my browser doesn't like vB.

 

I replaced the HG's in my '99 Legacy GT and now I have a phantom ticking sound from cylinder number 3 that I can't seem to figure out. I tried shims, they're all fine. Also tried using some compressed air to clear any blocked oil ducts and that didn't help either. But at this point I have had the engine out twice and can't seem to figure out what the problem is. I did have the heads machined before installing the new HGs. I also replaced the water pump while I was in there.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I'm guessing you still may have something stuck in an oil passage.

 

How many miles since put back together?

 

Also have you tried MMO? It really seems to work on Subaru's, then change the oil again.

soild valve train or hydrolic ?

It's not hydraulic. It has springs. Can't see any of them as being broken.

 

 

What is MMO? I have only driven the car a few hundred miles since the HG job as I also replaced the clutch and the fork actually sheared in half. So I just got a new, OEM fork in place. Glad to see that it is much thinker than the old one.

Marvel Mystery Oil

ticking sound from cylinder number 3 that I can't seem to figure out.

are you positive it wasn't there before the HG job?

 

is it piston slap?

 

is it louder at start up then gets quieter as it warms?

or does it get louder as it gets warm?

 

if it's piston slap then just ignore it, it has no bearing on longevity and requires replacing the piston to hopefully resolve, Subaru has updated pistons for this issue i believe.

 

is it the fuel injector? maybe you could unplug that and see if the ticking disappears?

I'm not sure I it's piston slap or not. It is similar to the tick of a direct injected engine, but much much louder. The volume is constant. It def. was not a problem before the HG job.

did you put all the buckets in their original places/cam lobes? I bag all of mine and label them pass in 1, etc etc. then put them back exactly where they came from. I can tell you that adding a pint of marvel mystery oil will unstick the stickiest of hydrolic lash adjusters.

These are shim on bucket. As stated, if you put the shims and buckets back in the same holes they were previously in-you shouldn't have changed anything. Maybe a cam cap isn't as tight as before. Did you torque them to spec correctly? I think its like 7 or 9 pounds, it isn't a lot.

the main cam caps are 15lb/ft the fronts are 7-9lb/ft if memory serves

the main cam caps are 15lb/ft the fronts are 7-9lb/ft if memory serves

 

This could be worth looking into.

It sounds like this:

 

a friend helped me do this job recently. I ended up getting a full valve job because I had ordered the full engine rebuild kit. I had to get the heads machined so I figured why not. Please forgive me if my syntax is off a bit I'm just getting into this field. when we did it we took the small cylindrical parts that are fed by the oil journals on the rocker arms out. submerged them in oil along with the rest of the assembly and compressed each one to allow oil to enter then closed them under oil to lock it in right before assembly and instillation. we also stored all parts in oil. I was told that if oil drains and is not replenished before assembly it can contribute to dry starts and or oil not flowing properly.

 

is this an interference or non interference engine?

did you clean and or machine the block?

what kind of replacement head gaskets did you?

1. It is an interference.

2. They were machined.

3. OEM.

sounds just like mine did with bad HLAs before I took them off yesterday.

(I understand you don't have those)

But it sounds like valve noise 2 me.

Good luck.

Buckets are to loose set the shims 0.25 mm exhaust 0.20 intake you can set them without pulling the engine apart but you need a selection of shims find the loose one pull shim measure it see if you need to add or subtract by thicker on thiner shims.Must be at top dead center of the hole you are checking to measure clearance.

It was leaking exhaust on both sides of the head. Replaced the Y pipe. Still noisy. Not leaking exhaust anymore though. So frustrated.

Gonna give the MMO a try first.

 

I can't believe that this car blue books at $4300 in good condition.

Hmmm. No change.

That definitely sounds like valve train noise to me too. I had this happen once after a hg job and I am meticulous about getting the buckets into the exact same hole they came out of. I would pull the valve covers and check the clearance of each and every one of the buckets. I am sure you are going to find that at least one of them is loose. you may also have one too tight due ot an inadvertant swap, so check them all. I know this sucks, but you will have to do it in order to fix the problem.

That definitely sounds like valve train noise to me too. I had this happen once after a hg job and I am meticulous about getting the buckets into the exact same hole they came out of. I would pull the valve covers and check the clearance of each and every one of the buckets. I am sure you are going to find that at least one of them is loose. you may also have one too tight due ot an inadvertant swap, so check them all. I know this sucks, but you will have to do it in order to fix the problem.

 

Yeah, I did that in January. Everything was to spec.

I finally broke down and took the car to Subaru. They informed that the timing was off when it was put back together and there is nothing that can be done for the car, other than trash the engine and put a new one in.

 

What I don't understand is that if this car has an interference engine, botched timing would result in more than a loud ticking sound, would it not? Other than the noise, the engine runs great and the gas mileage is the best that it has ever been. I don't understand.

I think they're blowin' smoke up your @$$ thinking you'll either pay them for an engine job or trade-in the car for a new one.

Timing has to be off far enough to bend a valve to make that noise. The bent valve would not return all the way and the lash clearance (cam lob to bucket) would be obviously wrong.

 

Have you checked the EGR pipe on the back of the drivers side head? (if it has it)

Which side is the noise coming from? Number 3 should be right (passenger) side rear cylinder.

It's hard to pin down, but I am pretty positive that the sound is coming from the passenger side. ...and yes the EGR is there...what don't I know about it?

If the lower flare nut was left loose there would be a decent sized exhaust leak where the EGR pipe enters the cylinder head. It could certainly cause some clicky sounding noises... BUT, it would be more prominent on the drivers side... you know, since that's where it is and all. :-p

 

Noise definitely coming from the passenger side... There is some chance that one of the valve guides has come loose and is in there bouncing around. It has been known to happen on these engines. But, I don't really see how it would have run for ~6 months now without causing some other form of damage with a loose guide. Have you been driving it this whole time?

 

I'm sure you've done it, but just check lash clearance again. Push in on the buckets to see if any move a large amount.