I highly recommend Quidam's place, Mizpah Precision. They do great work.

 

Read my post where I said "drive it like you stole it" on pumping up the lifters.

Since you have the rocker assembly out, disassemble it and make sure there is no obstruction in the rocker shaft and rocker arm that the questionable lifter was in.

Since you have the rocker assembly out, disassemble it and make sure there is no obstruction in the rocker shaft and rocker arm that the questionable lifter was in.

 

I KNEW someone would say that:)

makes sense, I don't even have compressed air though...hmmmm might take it to work...

my work has lots of granite dust though, boss said yeah bring your stuff on down!, I look around at all that dust and thought UM NO>

 

good call fair, I'll see what I can do

Edited March 27, 201214 yr by glkiller2

Canned cleaners work fine. I use brake cleaner most of the time since I usually have plenty of it around.

So ccrinc you agree with Ivan?

Leave them unprimed and let the pump get them where they need to be?

 

That's 2 against the book and seems to make more sense than holding them open too far.

By working these things it seems like getting that rod BACK IN after priming would be tough.

 

I'll do that.

 

Hey thanks so much for all the help guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hope I can return the favor someday, but as most of you have no doubt figured out, I don't know much about cars:)

Maybe someday I'll get a CNC and make a program for that spendy adapter for EJ22 from EA81 swap:):)

Edited March 27, 201214 yr by glkiller2

Canned cleaners work fine. I use brake cleaner most of the time since I usually have plenty of it around.

 

Ok I have some of that.

That brings up spring tension of the springs at 300,000

 

 

Doug

 

AHH this is true!

I thought about it, but i'm gonna try it anyways. I'll let you know if the new one fails again before the others.

 

so the old lifters will theoretically accept oil easier than the new one because the check ball springs are looser by now in the old ones. If I have any pressure or volume problems in that area it could starve the new lifter MAYBE.

 

Or were u talkin about the valve springs?

 

How far do we go before someone says just redo the heads LMAO

I'm gettin the parts I ordered on WED. and putting them in, will let u guys know results...

 

for those that haven't read back history, I already have the heads, but was told I was crazy for putting them on the old block by MANY people not just here, so I wasted a ton of money on that, might still usem later though, no big... Life's too short to dwell on things like that OOOPS

Edited March 27, 201214 yr by glkiller2

You might never learn.

 

I already have the heads

 

You're still buying new parts and you have a whole set of perfectly good lifters in a pair of heads sitting on a shelf!?! Or are the "new" heads bare? No cams/rockers? :-p sorry I gotta ask.

lol so yeah I got those so I could switch out fast ( thought I was cool lol), it took napa OVER a MONTH to get them done up (timing still woulda worked, so if I DID use heads I WAS COOL:), they are complete.

The plan now is to fix the current issue, Lifters, and keep my eyes open for a younger block to put heads on for a swapout.

The current engine runs fairly solid, no smoke the driver can see:)

It is getting kinda tired though.

Would love to get another motor all set with new belt heads clutch blah blah blah for a quick swap.

 

Believe me EVERYONE told me how stupid I was...

 

SA LA VI:)

 

Ever done somethin stupid? I have yep I have:)

 

If I had a nickel for every mistake I've ever made I could afford to hire all of YOU to make them for me from now on lol:)

Edited March 27, 201214 yr by glkiller2

I remember that, I was on that team. :-p

My point right now is, you have lifters! They're 3 minutes worth of turning a wrench away. You can just borrow a whole rocker assembly off one of your new heads until your current engine decides to take the dirt nap, then pop it back on the new engine when you do the swap. Catch my drift?

I do... but when I'm ready to swap for an all new baby I don't want to have to put the THEN old lifters in my new baby. The old block could send a sludge chunk in them and then I'm out.

hmm well I've been pretty good natured about all this but it seems whenever I post, no matter how humble I am I'm just talking myself into a dunce cap. I think I'll shut up now.

 

Thanks to all of those who've helped...

Well that just makes no sense. :-p We can only make suggestions.

It's all part of the wild and wonderful world of car repair, just learning a little something here and there is all that counts.

the one taht was giving me problems was two stuck lifters on #4 exhaust i took all the lifters out bled them down and reinstalled them just lightly lubed i dont pump them up because they get pummped up to far and hold valves open on startup. So let them tick takes about 10-30 min to shut up or somtimes a good drive. Also lets me know if theres a bad one if they dont stop ticking. Had to replace two were sticking when pushed did not come back up. Good thing i have a pile of heads.

Yeah - just let the running of the engine pump them up. Disconnect the coil pack connector and crank till the oil pressure idiot light goes out. Then reconnect your coil pack and start the engine. The lash adjusters will work themselves out.

 

GD

FIXED!! Thanks for all the great advice guys. It went very well.

 

When I picked my parts up at the stealership I asked the mechanic his opinion on priming lifters for install and he agreed that they should NOT be fully primed like the books say.

 

I did a partial prime, when you pump the lifter full it's very solid, when you let all the oil out you can feel it stop against metal when compressed. I left just enough oil in them to be able to squish them almost all the way without feeling the metal stop.

 

Started the car and got ALOT of noise. It gradually got better and after being warmed up for about ten minutes I wrapped the throttle a few times up to 5000RPM. They then went quiet (thank god).

 

I ran it over to my parents house in Grants Pass and the motor ran better than it ever has for me. Great mileage and power. 300 miles after 3/4 tank, awesome.

 

Thanks again for all the help guys.

Hold on... I thought you had the engine outside the car

 

How bad is the access to the lifters with the engine in the car? I may be in your same boat with my EJ22. Either that or I have some *very* noisy injectors...

Nope, left the engine in, took the advice here and did the simple fix.

 

I can see how the more experienced guys could access both sides from under the car and get it done, but I took out the battery, washer fluid tank, and the air filter assembly. That made it very easy to access from above and see the cams very well once the rockers are removed.

 

I think it's an easy job if you have ticking valves. Most of mine didn't want to move freely until a bit of new oil and some massaging got them freed up.

 

If lifters won't pump solid, replace them, easy.

 

I would DEFINITELY recommend putting in new orings on old lifters you plan to re-use. My old orings were FLAT. and each lifter sealed into the bores much better.

BTW if you fill the rocker with oil and then push in the lifter it flushes the oil out of the bleeder holes very well, it's a nice visual check to ensure your passages are clear. Compressed air may leave bits stuck in there that you have no chance of seeing, so shove some oil through it too, just to be sure.

 

ALSO all bleeder holes on the sides of the lifters should be facing UP in the rockers natural position in the engine.

Edited April 2, 201213 yr by glkiller2

Hold on... I thought you had the engine outside the car

 

How bad is the access to the lifters with the engine in the car? I may be in your same boat with my EJ22. Either that or I have some *very* noisy injectors...

 

If you can get the valve cover off you can get the rocker assembly off. It does take a bit of wiggling because there are two alignment dowels that it has to be worked off of. I said somewhere earlier in this thread to make sure the cams are unloaded before removing the rockers, that's not 100% necessary, but it makes it 100 times easier to re-install the assembly because you don't have to worry about warping or twisting the rocker shaft, or have to fight with valve spring tension while trying to get the bolts threaded in.

Thanks but this thing has almost 300,000 miles, it's been SLOWLY losing performance and MPG for awhile, I'm over it...

Now that I've seen the cams and the condition of the rockers I know there's worse news inside.

 

Gonna drive around the old GL for awhile till I find a newer motor or newer car. Or end up rebuilding.

 

FIXED!!

I ran it over to my parents house in Grants Pass and the motor ran better than it ever has for me. Great mileage and power. 300 miles after 3/4 tank, awesome.

 

So you going to hold off on the rebuild for a while longer?

Good to hear it worked out for you.

So you going to hold off on the rebuild for a while longer?

Good to hear it worked out for you.

 

Yeah, I'll take my time and find a young short block for my heads....

 

shhhh "rebuild" is a bad word for the 2.2:)

 

THX