ej22 legacy needin some love

[slynger]

I have a fwd 93 legacy that has about 250k on it. It runs quite well, and I try and keep up reasonably well with maintenance. I have a couple questions and I'm sure some of you gurus can point me in the right direction.

 

1. It uses a bit of oil. On the order of 1qt per 500-1000 miles. It runs pretty well though, doesn't smoke, and has no apparent leaks. Does this warrant any work? ie rings? seals? Quite frankly, the car has been so good that if I need to do some work to it to get another 200k out of it, I would definitely do that, especially given the fact that it averages around 33 mpg.

 

2. Steering wheel vibration on braking. I have replaced rotors and pads recently so that is not it. Can it possibly need some bushings. Before I do anything I'm gonna get some new tires, as I know the snow tires on it are shot. I have had it aligned not too long ago as well. What stuff gets loose over time with these cars?

 

I appreciate any input guys (or gals).

 

Chad

[lmdew]

could be time for a new engine.

 

If there are no leaks, It's using oil. Keep it filled and you will be fine.

 

Normal leaks that can be corrected:

- Cam or Crank shaft front seal

- Oil Pump Seal and rear plate

- Breather plate on the back of the block

- Valve cover Gaskets

- Oil fill tube

- Cam Cover on the Rear Right.

 

Used engines are a good bet if you find one that was hit hard but otherwise looks in good condition.

[Rooster2]

I wouldn't be that concerned about using 1 quart of oil every 500-1,000 miles. Just be careful to check the oil level frequently, and don't let it run low on oil. If it leaks a little oil, I wouldn't worry about that either. All old cars leak oil. I don't think swapping out motors is the wise thing to do. With a nearly 20 year old car, it is hard to justify the cost of a replacement motor and labor. It would be better to take the money, add a bit more to it, and looks for a newer Subie. Unless, of course, you would do all the labor of the motor swap yourself.

 

The vibration under braking is usually a sign of warped rotors, but you have already replaced those. You might want to jack up each individual front wheel off the pavement, and try to turn the road wheel/tire left and right, then up and down. If there is any looseness "Play," then check out ball joints and tie rod ends for wear causing the play. I don't know if bushings cause vibration, usually cause more clunking noises then anything else.

 

Yea, the tires could be the problem too. Winter tires are made with hard rubber, so they make a car ride rougher. I am sure new tires will help the ride.

[CoupedUpSubie]

Control arm bushings are said to make a clunk noise but I got rid of some vibration when I replaced mine as they were getting quite worn. I got mine for $140 both sides. They are an absolute pain to change. Torch, hacksaw and air chisel to remove the old ones. Large washers/socket and hammer to drive the new ones in, helps to have a good solid surface to drive against.

 

Front bushings:

 

Burn old rubber out, cut a groove in the outer sleeve taking care to not cut into the control arm, I cut the groove in the area connected to the control arm so I could hit the metal a tad. Using a center punch roll the edge of the sleeve down so you can put the air chisel on it. I had a drift punch attachment for the air chisel. Hammer on it until it comes out. Works well if you have all the tools. Can also get them pressed out if a local shop won't take you to the cleaners.

 

To make install easier throw them in the freezer for a few hours. They will slide most of the way in but will require some extra force. Just make sure whatever you use contacts the outside edge of the bushing.

 

Rear bushings:

 

They just bolt on. Put them on the control arm before install and line them up to where the old ones were. You will see where there is no coating on the frame.