splitboarder Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 (edited) Waiting for a 6 inch lift kit, and want to cover all possible bases. 1997 legacy wagon L Will I need to extend the gas tank filler tube? Fuel lines? Looks like a lot of slack on the brake lines. Will I need to extend them? struts- plan on using 1999 outback struts with the stock springs. Edited April 6, 2012 by splitboarder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Waiting for a 6 inch lift kit, and want to cover all possible bases. 1997 legacy wagon L Will I need to extend the gas tank filler tube? Fuel lines? Looks like a lot of slack on the brake lines. Will I need to extend them? struts- plan on using 1999 outback struts with the stock springs. you'll definately need to extend the brake lines. At very least you'll need to relocate the position of the hardlines, and take them out of the strut clip no to the gas tank and fuel lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 the gas tank stays in the same position near the body,so no. fuel lines at the engine?maybe depending on how much slack there is in the lines. brake lines.On ea81's there is enough slack in front brake lines for 4",the rears can go to about 12" with some creative line routing.So I would imagine the lines are somewhat similar on a legacy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splitboarder Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 Thanks Guys. What about the radiator hoses ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Thanks Guys. What about the radiator hoses ? 3rd gen Legacy upper hose should work for upper. Switching to a Turbo water pump will bring the lower outlet up, otherwise you'll have to just make it work. I know an outback lower hose works for a 3" lift, perhaps with a turbo pump it'd be enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthCoast Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 I'm getting ready to do the same. I plan on using new longer flex hoses for the radiator. For brake lines I plan on upgrading to longer braided lines. Anyone have a good source in the Seattle area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splitboarder Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 How did you guys lift your car while doing the install? It will be up on jack stands with the wheels removed but how to lift the body off the subframe? of course one end at a time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 How did you guys lift your car while doing the install? It will be up on jack stands with the wheels removed but how to lift the body off the subframe? of course one end at a time Drop the front crossmember itself with a jack below it.Then install blocks.After that drop one strut at at time to install those spacers.Utilizing small subaru jacks at multiple pick points is a must when installing a lift ..... rear , same thing.Some bolts will need to be looser than others.It all really depends on how much you losen some to others.Every single one of these cars I have come across is different(especially true to same models ) some are tweaked one way, some others, you just have to make ************ fit some times.If that means squezzing a bolt into a tight spot then tap it with a hammerr.Just be catious of thread damage.If that means, lift something higher than somehting else, just make surre you watch your rump roast, or have someone that can:cars can fall.It sucks.BAD..... But most of all, cross threading fine thread metric bolts is easy, if not idiot proof.Don't be an idiot.Use your fingers for sure purchase.Otherwise ************ gets serious. LOL Just pay attention.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthCoast Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 ... and be safe. Get some help too. Even just having someone there as a spotter is good. The rear struts are definitely a spot where two people are required unless you have a LOT of patience. Also, a hi-lift aka farm jack is a must in my opinion, especially with the 6" lift. You're going to need one after the lift anyway so get one before hand. My stock jack got tossed years ago since it was just dead weight after I switched to OB struts/springs and bigger tires. It really sucks having to dig a hole big enough for your tire to fit into just to change it. You will definitely want to get some blocks like monstaru said. I'm planning on several 6x12 blocks just for my jack stands. Hopefully that is enough height because after I put in my strut spacers in they became useless on their own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 You can still use the stock jack after a lift, just make the jack bigger. An outback jack just has a bigger thing on the top for the extra lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthCoast Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 LOL. I don't think that will fit in the onboard jack storage space:lol:. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JacksonRally Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Just noticed your location. Not many people from CA on here. If you want you can cruise up to my shop to check out a couple of projects I have going on. I think all of your questions will be answered. Shop is in Murrieta, north of you up the 15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splitboarder Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 Thanks Jackson I will take you up on that. Give me about a week and I will drive my Lifted leggy up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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