Ive been having this issue with my 2.2 awd auto for awhile but never worried since i've got a spare trans for it. My spare has no torque converter and i wanted to see what this problem would be before i reuse my torque converter and it ends up having the same problem. Here goes: When taking off from a stop it does fine. When taking off like getting onto the highway taking a 90 degree turn it'll buck and jerk almost like a misfire. It gets that put-put-put kind of feeling. It only does this when turning. It doesnt do it on straights or when putting it in drive, holding the brake and revving. I recently replaced all filters, plugs/wires, timing belt, etc so I know the engine is strong. The thing that worries me most is it does it on decel too. Right before you get to a stop under 10mph it'll do it too. It's not quite a "i didnt push in the clutch" kind of jerking it literally feels like a misfire but i know it isnt. I think it's either a torque converter locking up or first gear clutches going out. I noticed at times when you crank it up and put it in drive it takes a few secs to engage, even if the vehicle is warm it'll do it. Im kinda stumped here. I dont wana waste the money on a torque converter if I dont need it. Plus the only type I need, the one with teeth on the converter isnt available. I believe this is the one i've got. It's my daily so i cant just disassemble it and check everything.

Edited April 8, 201213 yr by Recian

All subaru converters the teeth are on the converter.

 

Sounds like your problem is torque bind. Rear transfer clutches are stuck or otherwise engaged when they shouldn't be.

What He said. Put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder on the passenger strut tower, see if the problem goes away. You should get a FWD or AT Oil light on the dash with the fuse in.

Installed 30A fuse. Success! No more binding. Its wierd tho the tires dont skip on wet roads or dirt. Ive heard they scrub the tires like a welded diff when you have this problem but at least i know the transmission swap is going to happen now instead of just solenoids to fix my reverse. Good thing is without the binding i can see my first gear is about to go too.

Generally torque bind can be cured by replacing the Duty C solenoid tha controls line pressure to the transfer clutches.

Do you not have reverse at all?

If reverse is lost completely it's usually only a matter of time before the forward gears follow suit and stop working as well.

I have no reverse at all and first takes a little while to engage when you first shift into drive. I know my shift solenoid3 is bad. It failed the resistance check at 14 ohms. Im not sure if it controls reverse or not.

I have no reverse at all and first takes a little while to engage when you first shift into drive. I know my shift solenoid3 is bad. It failed the resistance check at 14 ohms. Im not sure if it controls reverse or not.

 

 

I am confused .... you have no reverse and torque bind?

Exactly. Ontop of that when shifting into drive theres a delay. Ive got a spare tranny im going to drop in thats good. Just gota make it 2 weeks til i have the time seeing this is my daily.

Torque bind, no reverse, and delayed forward engagement, yeah I think you would be well suited to drop in a new trans at that point.

That's my plan. I drove the car the trans came out of so i know it's good. Seems these trans have issues so idk how long that one will last.

yea they do have issues lol im doing the 5 speed conversion right now..... good luck op

If this one goes out i guess ill do the same thing or overhaul my original trans. Not sure yet. Either way i still like this car more than any others ive owned. My first subaru.

Low / reverse clutch pack is very last part in trans at very bottom of case if the reverse pack is gone will have no reverse and low wont work properly tourque converters only fail when installed inproperly but the orings that seal tourque converter fail alot and are easaly damaged

Ive already ordered the t/c seal just so it wont leak. Dont wana yank a tranny twice. I dont see any oil but i think ill do the rear main while its out too. At least ive got some help on this issue and learned something. Nasioc was no help

if the rear main isn't leaking i would not replace it.

 

it isn't rocket science, but some folks have done it incorrectly and had to pull the engine again.

 

no doubt others will say how it isn't hard and give good tips for doing it correctly. but if it isn't leaking leave it alone. any leak you have is probably the oil sep plate to the right of the crank, as you look at it. it should be replaced if it is plastic.

Make shure you replace the oring on input shaft very importantat