Demolition Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Its finally getting nice out and I can start my project Long story short: Taking everything from (A 89 "Viking" Wagon 4x4) the transmission all the way back and putting It into my 1993 Loyale Sedan. I got most everything figured out, Like switching the gas tank, welding some spots for the drivetrain. But What would I do about the brake lines? Leave it how it is or do I have to switch it all out with the Master Cylinder? And Is there anything else I need to know about that would make this swap a lot easier?? Hopefully this will be fun. *The 4x4 is not push start it has the lever below the gear box Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 That is the dual range transmission. It is fun . Why are you swapping the gas tank? Does it leak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Why are you swapping the gas tank? Does it leak? Maybe its only a 2WD Sedan, there for the Fuel tank does not compensate for the rear diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Ah, good call. We shall find out soon, hopefully! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Ahh cool thread to come across as I am debating doing basically the exact same thing. What's that bit about welding part of the drivetrain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 no mods to the brakes are necessary, as they are the same parts between 2wd and 4wd. a FWD ea82 gas tank already has the provisions for the rear diff, no need to swap. This is different than what you may have read regarding ea81. you will have to fab a mount for the carrier bearing. you will have to drill holes for the rear diff hanger. If you get a hang-up, ask me, as i have done several FWD<4WD swaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demolition Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 no mods to the brakes are necessary, as they are the same parts between 2wd and 4wd. a FWD ea82 gas tank already has the provisions for the rear diff, no need to swap. This is different than what you may have read regarding ea81. you will have to fab a mount for the carrier bearing. you will have to drill holes for the rear diff hanger. If you get a hang-up, ask me, as i have done several FWD<4WD swaps. haha Miles pretty much got it all. And yes mine is a SEDAN FWD. I'm hoping this will go well, Seeing that I dont have a garage. I'm working on taking the engine out soon (from the wagon) My father tells me the best way is to take everything out the engine bay? Ill try and get pictures so you guys can see what I'm working with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 To pull really any Subaru motor, Remove the radiator to gain more space in front of the motor, Unbolt the bellhousing, remove starter, disconnect Heater core hoses, power steering lines, Pitch stopper bar, the few electrical connectors (O2 sensor, Alternator wiring, the main engine wiring harness, Clutch cable, HVAC hose/diaphragm, and both motors mounts. That should be pretty much everything, possibly a few obvious extras, taking anything else out of the engine bay is a waste of time and possibly confusion for reinstall. Subarus are super easy, the EA82 is a very good motor/chassis to learn on. I did way back in 2006. Good luck with the swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 I have found that after '87, EA82 cars had a spot for the carrier bearing mount even if 2WD. I could be mistaken though as its been awhile since I did my last swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demolition Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 I have found that after '87, EA82 cars had a spot for the carrier bearing mount even if 2WD. I could be mistaken though as its been awhile since I did my last swap. Mine doesn't seem to have the carrier bearing mount unfortunately. And yes these motors are very easy to work on I love it! It's like a cheap tank haha thanks for that information, I havent seen to many sedans on here the 4x4 ones anyways.....Pics Tomorrow.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Could I bug you guys to tell me what the carrier bearing mount is? Or where it is (or should be)? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Could I bug you guys to tell me what the carrier bearing mount is? Or where it is (or should be)? lol The EA82 has a two piece driveshaft, so it uses a rubber mounted bearing to stabilize it. The EA81 cars have a single piece and do not have a bearing. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Exactly what he said but I will add, the carrier bearing mount is located inside the transmission tunnel just behind the front seats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Exactly what he said but I will add, the carrier bearing mount is located inside the transmission tunnel just behind the front seats. I could have had a complete useful post! But now, its nothing, because I forgot about its location! Thats it, delete all my posts, they are useless Anyway enough BS, yes its in the transmission tunnel, 2 12mm or 14mm bolts hold it in place. The bolt thread pitch is 1.25 on those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demolition Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 Hmmmm quick question..... I dis-connected the drive shaft from the end of the transmission (Oil went ever where dumb on my part) Now is it okay if I keep the driveshaft in one piece just take the bolts to the carrier mount off and take it out with the rear end? I have a feeling I'm gonna have to take the rear end out all in one piece.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demolition Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 Nothing too special got motors out of both cars, gonna take it easy and cath up on some work then installation shall begin. Anyways.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 I could have had a complete useful post! But now, its nothing, because I forgot about its location! Thats it, delete all my posts, they are useless Anyway enough BS, yes its in the transmission tunnel, 2 12mm or 14mm bolts hold it in place. The bolt thread pitch is 1.25 on those Should be 14s. The driveshaft can stay together, unbolt the said pair of 14s, and four bolts holding it to the rear diff. It should stay in one piece for you. The front end where it mates to the tranny has no bolts--it just slides on like an axle does, with splines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demolition Posted April 22, 2012 Author Share Posted April 22, 2012 Got everything outta SAM today now I am starting to put the 4x4 in.. Just have some questions Yesterday I picked up a deep cycle battery its 15"wide and 6" deep I was thinking of putting it in the spare tire compartment but im gonna need to shave some room for it to fit snug..Has anyone else put batteries in the spare compartment?? I noticed I can move the terminal cables easily to there but the positive is connected to some fuses that attach to the side of the coolant reserve tank, how can I extend those.... Secondly Miles...or anyone for the hole inside where the shifter(s) go, do I need to widen this hole??? it seems like it but not too sure and I dont want to widen it too much.. I was just gonna put the jack that comes with the car in there and just jack it open Thanks in advance guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 As for the hole question, it should be just fine, unless there is another stamping there which you can knock out. "Subarus are like Legos, you can build them any way you want" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demolition Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Okay thanks for that! Does anyone know where I can get my hands on a "kit" that includes; All or most of my gaskets and seals? Cause I've been looking on Ebay and I'm seeing if you guys know of a good place that gives you a good deal on this kit? Im re doing all my seals and everything just so it'll run cherry on the first start up. I dont need all of them like my HG's, and such thats why I dont wanna buy a FULL kit TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) What was wrong with the touring wagon that you're using it for a donor? They're pretty rare actually. Not that I treated mine any better, but it was a complete rustbucket. Edited April 23, 2012 by WoodsWagon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I have found that after '87, EA82 cars had a spot for the carrier bearing mount even if 2WD. I could be mistaken though as its been awhile since I did my last swap. maybe you are thinking of the moustache bar holes on n ea81 as they are threaded on ea81's. The 87 and up fits the xt trans mount, the 86 and under is narrower. I swapped an 88 gl sedan and had to make a carrier mount. same again with an 89 gl-10 touring wagon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Got everything outta SAM today now I am starting to put the 4x4 in..Just have some questions Yesterday I picked up a deep cycle battery its 15"wide and 6" deep I was thinking of putting it in the spare tire compartment but im gonna need to shave some room for it to fit snug..Has anyone else put batteries in the spare compartment?? I noticed I can move the terminal cables easily to there but the positive is connected to some fuses that attach to the side of the coolant reserve tank, how can I extend those.... Secondly Miles...or anyone for the hole inside where the shifter(s) go, do I need to widen this hole??? it seems like it but not too sure and I dont want to widen it too much.. I was just gonna put the jack that comes with the car in there and just jack it open Thanks in advance guys! i have put deep cycle batteries under the hood.it will fit if you crick it in at an angle. for the shifter, just swap the boot. there is a stud present on the 2wd body for the mt shifter mount. swap the whole rearend as one piece. you will need the main piece of it anyway for the diff mount, and the trailing arms for the 4wd. you will get more lift in a 2wd to 4wd swap as the 2wd struts are longer, and it will sit up more than an already 4wd car. keep this car's original rear struts, and swap in the 4wd front struts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demolition Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 Long time no talk.... Just a quick update: got to working on my engine I ended up doing new Timing belts,timing belt covers,oil pump, gaskets all around including valve covers, 4x4 flywheel and clutch and that about sums it up.. Attached the 4x4 transmission to the engine im thinking it would be easiest to put the engine and tranny in together as apposed to separate...ideas?? swap the whole rearend as one piece. you will need the main piece of it anyway for the diff mount, and the trailing arms for the 4wd. you will get more lift in a 2wd to 4wd swap as the 2wd struts are longer, and it will sit up more than an already 4wd car. keep this car's original rear struts, and swap in the 4wd front struts. Can I just swap my front struts and keep my original knuckles?? I ask because when the knuckles came out of the 4x4 a little rough and they need new bearings I don't see why I wouldn't be able to, Just wanna be safe about it. Will post pics later tonight im just doing this update on my lunch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 I cannot say for sure on the Gen3 cars but for Gen2 the knuckles are the same, the big difference lies in whether you had an early 83 or older with solid rotors and later 83 and newer had vented rotors. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.