Deener Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Hi All, EA82 - I just got slippage out of an Exedy Clutch Kit that I installed in July. I drive fast all the time, but I don't beat on it or ride the clutch, very rarely squeal the tires (keep good/new rubber on 2 sets of rims), the only time I really spin them is in the snow/ice/sideways/4wd. I have a couple of questions about this fauilure that I am hoping y'all can chime in on. I want to figure out if I made any errors installing the kit or if its my driving that baked it, or if it is defective which unlikely I'm sure. 1. Lets say it was my driving that burned through the clutch disc in 9 months - is there a stronger disc than the Exedy? What about the Exedy PP? 2. What should I look for to determine the reason for failure so I don't make the same mistake on my next one? - I tried adjusting the cable - it's already set correctly. Adjusting didn't help either way. - Rear main was immaculate 9 months ago. - I follow torque values religiously. - Cable seems in great shape still. - TO bearing clips were replaced 9 months ago. - Flywheel was ground but I didn't articulate the .906 step or whatever it is to them, but the shop seemed to know what to do. (Dowels were done too). - The car is running perfect other than the slippage, never overheated, ZERO LEAKS!! Yes thats correct, zero leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Measure the flywheel step. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 I highly doubt the flywheel step would have caused it. I've never used an Exedy clutch personally. Although we have run 2 of them in the Ziptie Rally #171 over the last few years. I've used Beck/Arnley clutches many times. Decent price from RockAuto, and they hold up wonderfully. I know 2 of them are still behind EJ22s, and holding up very well after about 50k miles. The third was in a stockish XT6, which was parted out for other reasons. I'll be using another one in my Brat (EJ18, EA82 trans/flywheel) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 If they cut the friction surface but not the PP mounting surface then it could have easily caused it to slip prematurely. I use exclusively Exedy clutch kits - because they are OEM. I have an Exedy WRX kit in my '91 SS right now. Works great. I've got customers with near 100k on clutches I've replaced.... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 Ok, cool thanks for the tip. So, just to be clear, the step should be the same for the PP mounting surface as the friction surface? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eman_79 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 the exedy kits are the best oem style clutch kits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eman_79 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 the exedy kits are the best oem style clutch kits after market luk or beck arnley kits have exedy clutches in them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Is there a return spring on the clutch fork? Might be a dumb question, sorry, but sometimes those are the things that 'do it'. The small, but not zero weight of the fork leaning back (cable, too) can cause severe premature wear on the plate. Don't ask how I know. Also don't ask why I did my clutch twice in 18 months! (It's all good now, btw). To be fair, I bought the car and the return spring was missing (I have a picture somewhere), did the clutch, didn't even think to replace it, paid for it a few months later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 Is there a return spring on the clutch fork? Might be a dumb question, sorry, but sometimes those are the things that 'do it'. The small, but not zero weight of the fork leaning back (cable, too) can cause severe premature wear on the plate. Don't ask how I know. Also don't ask why I did my clutch twice in 18 months! (It's all good now, btw). To be fair, I bought the car and the return spring was missing (I have a picture somewhere), did the clutch, didn't even think to replace it, paid for it a few months later. Not a dumb question at all. I have been wondering about this myself...I have a hill holder that appears to do what the return spring should. So no - I don't have one and I don't think it even came with one - and now under a shadow of doubt...Should an EA82/93 Loyale 5MT actually have a return spring or is it the HH that does the fork retrun trick in it's place? Interestingly enough I had my head in there last night and found that the hill holder cable sheath (I mean the twisty metal housing piece) wasn't secured properly into the fixture/bracket/cable junction on the bell housing. Mind you the HH worked and is still working great - it also seemed properly adjusted all along. I would expect a HH that was tightened excessively to promote early clutch decay, but not the cable sheath being improperly seated in the bracket as the culprit....? I bought another Exedy, it's going in tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I'd add a return spring. I measured the distance from the fork to the bracket. Went to a hard ware store and got a spring that was about the right length. Then cut the end and made a new bend so it was perfect. My car didn't have one when I got it either, and I figured why not add one when I put in the new clutch. There's probably a specific subaru part for the return spring, but $1.50 the local hardware store was easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 Well, I just got it apart and found the pressure plate cracked!!! Ill post a pic tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 There is a little pin size hole on the clutch fork, and one on the bracket where the T-bone stablizer mounts toward the rear of the engine. I pulled a bed-spring looking thingy to do the job, just cut it to length. This clutch is much happier now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Well, I just got it apart and found the pressure plate cracked!!! Ill post a pic tomorrow. Very odd indeed. Possibly a warantee issue there. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Well, I just got it apart and found the pressure plate cracked!!! Ill post a pic tomorrow. Umm. That is bad. Hopefully a manufacturer defect and not due to some misalignment or poor torquing technique! If it is a front wheel drive model I have a full clutch kit I can sell you for not too much. It was sold to me instead of a 4wd one, and I never got around to exchanging it in the time frame the store wanted (it was mail order). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Heres the crack... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Looks like a defect to me. See if you can get a warantee replacement. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Umm. That is bad. Hopefully a manufacturer defect and not due to some misalignment or poor torquing technique! If it is a front wheel drive model I have a full clutch kit I can sell you for not too much. It was sold to me instead of a 4wd one, and I never got around to exchanging it in the time frame the store wanted (it was mail order). Thank you very much but I already have a replacement kit and it's a 4wd anyway. I like your return spring suggestion and I will add one. I never took the fork off last time because I couldn't figure out how to get it off. I see a little square wire 'tab' at the bottom of it, do you pull or squeeze the tab or something? I want to grease the ball stud but I don't want to reef on the fork and wreck it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Ok, I took the flywheel in and the step is currently ay .826...? WTF? I even brought in another flywheel off of another 4WD Loyale that measured .823. What gives? I thought that the .800 mark was the FWD spec and the .900 is the 4WD spec? I wasn't about to ask him to take 100 or so off just to fit. It's very very unlikely that these are FWD flywheels as I have the service records from the .826 one that shows everything up to the day I got my hands on it and the clutch was never done on it. Can anyone comment on this? I am confused and I don't want to burn through another clutch kit if this is a problem. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick James Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Hey Deener, I'm sorry for your troubles and all....it sounds like we have the same Loyale. Can you tell me if you're using the Exedy 15001 or Exedy 15008?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Hi Rick James No Worries, I got the new kit in without issue but the part number was way different than those you've described. It had a couple of 3's in it...(don't quote me but it was something like 0750303...?). I don't have the box anymore but it was definitely an Exedy and it was the 225mm kit. Good news is that I took the whole kit back to VAP and they gave me a full cash refund! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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