jettyrat Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 need help changing timing belt on a 98 forester 2.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 what kind of help? go through the pictures first. that is for a SOHC but the double is the same , just 2 more cams to line up. the articles are great, read up. timing belt pictures > TIMING BELT ARTICLES Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Clamps or clothes pins are your friend! Use them to keep belt on cam sprockets and crank. Buy a belt with lines on it (I use Dayco). I install lowest idler last myself. Make sure crank at TDC BEFORE belt removal and remember to break loose cam bolts if doing HG job before belt removed. Other than that follow th elinks. My faverite was by "skipnospam" at comcast IIR. It's a HG job bu tmy favorite writeup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 If you search here and Google you will find tons of how to guides on doing it. Its fairly easy. It shouldn't take more than 5 hours your first time. Replace the water pump, idlers, cam seals, crank seal, and reseal the oil pump while doing the belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Oh, and get your belt/water pump kit from Mizumo or The Import Expert on eBay. Make sure the water pump gasket is OEM (metal coated in rubber... not paper!) Use OEM cam and crank seals. And look up the FSM. The Haynes and Chilton manuals have wrong torque specs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Oh, and get your belt/water pump kit from Mizumo or The Import Expert on eBay. Make sure the water pump gasket is OEM (metal coated in rubber... not paper!) Use OEM cam and crank seals. And look up the FSM. The Haynes and Chilton manuals have wrong torque specs. What he said. I use importexperts myself. Last kit I got had a goo dlooking WP gasket and crank/cam seals that I had them add. Prior to that I always got OEM. The rubber coated metal WP gasket and dark brown seals are what you want. I heard some tald her ethe good seals went back to black but I haven't witnessed that - and that woul dbe stupid because a fella can't tell junk form good by looking after installation. I also install new accessory belts and coolant at the same time since I have them off. Personally I get the PS belt 1/2" longer and the AC belt 1/2" smaller for ease of installation on PS pump and to have some room left on adjusted on AC side. Frequently I'd do VC gaskets if they were needed and also the spark plugs while I was into a major project. Fan removal is all that's necessary but you can pull the whole rad assy complete. If you pull the whole assy the difficulties are the clamp on lower rad hose (you can undo it at WP and yank it out) and the lower ATF line is difficult even with overflow bottle removed. Here in the rust belt removal of fans often turns into removal of rad assy and "fixing" the fan to rad bolts that broke. If I pulled the rad I often replace rad hoses and while it's out. While doing the WP make sure thermostat is OEM. I haven't tried the new Stant folks here have mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 need help changing timing belt on a 98 forester 2.5 Don't forget to check for videos on changing Subaru timing belts on Youtube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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