DavieGravy Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) My power light is flashing 16 times and I pulled a solenoid C code (24). I'm going to take it into the mechanic to have it replaced, but I'm wondering if it's OK to drive with the power being locked 50/50 between the front and rear wheels? The car drives perfectly fine with no noticeable binding or noises. If it weren't for the flashing power light I wouldn't have known. If I do drive it, should I put the FWD fuse in? Thanks Edited June 8, 2012 by DavieGravy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Totally find to drive around. Will just be jerky on shape turns. Why not replace it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 yes, put the fuse in. if you have no ''binding'' in slow tight turns, chances are tha duty c is not bad. if you put the fuse in and the FWD light comes on (i assume the SVX has one) then the duty c is ok. or at least working at that time . so test drive the car in tight slow circles, then put the fuse in and then do it again. see if there are any changes. i had a 'phantom' trans code on my 97 GT the other day. it lasted a few days and then cleared. the code was triggered by a ''spirited'' drive and was probably valid. but it was not an ongoing problem unless i continued to drive like that. how long have you had the flashing power light.? ever had a duty c problem before? did you read both the stored codes and the current codes? a how to i stole from GD To Check the TCU codes - if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times on startup then you have stored TCU codes. There is a 6 pin black connector above the gas pedal and two grounding wires wrapped into the harness directly above that. Insert one grounding pin into the center pin on the black connector (blue with yellow trace typically), then follow this process: 1: Turn ignition on, apply brake, and place gear selector in 1. Turn ignition off. 2: Turn ignition on. 3: Move selector to 2. 4: Move selector to 3. 5: Move selector to D. 6: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 7: Read morse codes flashes on the AT Temp light. 24 will indicate a bad duty-c. These are "stored" history codes from previous drive cycles. 8: Turn ignition off, then back on. 9: Move selector to 3. 10: Move selector to 2. 11: Move selector to 1. 12: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 13: Read codes again. Codes given here are current faults active in the TCU on the current drive cycle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavieGravy Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 yes, put the fuse in. if you have no ''binding'' in slow tight turns, chances are tha duty c is not bad. if you put the fuse in and the FWD light comes on (i assume the SVX has one) then the duty c is ok. or at least working at that time . so test drive the car in tight slow circles, then put the fuse in and then do it again. see if there are any changes. i had a 'phantom' trans code on my 97 GT the other day. it lasted a few days and then cleared. the code was triggered by a ''spirited'' drive and was probably valid. but it was not an ongoing problem unless i continued to drive like that. how long have you had the flashing power light.? ever had a duty c problem before? did you read both the stored codes and the current codes? a how to i stole from GD To Check the TCU codes - if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times on startup then you have stored TCU codes. There is a 6 pin black connector above the gas pedal and two grounding wires wrapped into the harness directly above that. Insert one grounding pin into the center pin on the black connector (blue with yellow trace typically), then follow this process: 1: Turn ignition on, apply brake, and place gear selector in 1. Turn ignition off. 2: Turn ignition on. 3: Move selector to 2. 4: Move selector to 3. 5: Move selector to D. 6: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 7: Read morse codes flashes on the AT Temp light. 24 will indicate a bad duty-c. These are "stored" history codes from previous drive cycles. 8: Turn ignition off, then back on. 9: Move selector to 3. 10: Move selector to 2. 11: Move selector to 1. 12: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 13: Read codes again. Codes given here are current faults active in the TCU on the current drive cycle. As far as I can tell there is no binding in slow tight turns. I did circles in the middle of the street and experienced no jerkiness or noises. Is binding something that is noticeable? There are no changes between doing tight turns with the FWD fuse in or out. And the FWD light does come on when the fuse is put in. The blinking power light only comes on exactly every other time I start the car. Strange right? I've only noticed it for a couple of weeks but it's hard to tell because I normally don't drive the car very often. I have never had a problem with the solenoid c before. I'm surprised it's giving me a code because the transmission has been rebuilt by a master Subaru technician (one of the best in Colorado). This would have been 10 years ago. The transmission has 60k on it. I pulled both the existing and previous codes and it's giving code 24 in both. That's the only code the car is giving. One strange thing I've noticed is the car will rock back and forth slightly when the engine is shut off from park after driving. I never noticed this before. I appreciate the help as I don't want to spend $500 to replace a part that isn't defective. :-) I'm reluctant to replace it myself as I can't find a how-to guide and don't want to be on the ground removing a bunch of stuff without a lift. Is this a difficult project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 the car will rock back and forth slightly when the engine is shut off from park after driving.this is a symptom of torque bind. when shifting to park, try pausing in N for a second or two and see if it lessens or eliminates the ''rocking''. the rear wheels and the front wheeels are ''locked'' together and when you turn into your home, driveway, parking space, the rear wheels travel a different distance. and since they are locked to the front there is tension in the drive train. (the duty c and the transfer clutch is supposed to allow some slipping between the front and rear. ) once you shift into park the rear wheels are released, and you can feel the car ''relax'' and rock as the tension is released. driving with the fuse in should eliminate this situation. did a FWD light up on the dash when the fuse was in? in tight slow circles, binding is usually OBVIOUS. my 95 had slight binding for years due mostly to dirty fluid and no service. but once the duty c failed it became Obvious. code 24 is the duty c. a flashing AT Temp light means there was an electrical issue the last time the car was driven. and there is some history od intermittent duty c failure. not sure of the causes or conditions. at one point i suspected heat as a contributing factor. you might try a fluid drain and fill. do it a couple of times with driving in between. i don't really see how this will help an electrical problem but maybe if the duty c is sticking.... idk. there is also a binding situation that is caused by a bad TCU. a circuit blows on the board. what is weird is no binding. that's a head scratcher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavieGravy Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 I took the car to a mechanic to have it replaced. $701 and a new exhaust leak later the car is doing the exact same thing as before. The only difference is now it sounds like crap. :-( :-( :-( Ugghhh. I hate wasting my money. Anyway, does anyone know what the problem might be if it's not the solenoid itself? Could it have something to do with a corroded battery cable and things not getting enough power? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 that stinks. ideally you're testing the actual circuit - like for resistance, but it could be inside the trans, not sure you can do that completely outside the trans. i recall one thread (on this forum) where someone pulled the trans pan and found a bad connector or wire for the solenoids. is your ATF pan dented or compromised at all? if there are no symptoms i would be tempted to leave it alone. has the fluid ever been changed? doubtful the battery is the issue, that would be weird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavieGravy Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share Posted October 14, 2012 (edited) I'm wondering if anyone can give me some more suggestions on this. I performed a full transmission service with fluid change and the problem still exists. I do not experience torque bind with the FWD fuse in . Could this be a symptom of clutch pack failure? Or perhaps a cooked TCU? It has been suggested on another forum that there might be a short in the wiring to the solenoid. Is this a posibility? Thanks Edited October 14, 2012 by DavieGravy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 yes, put the fuse in. if you have no ''binding'' in slow tight turns, chances are tha duty c is not bad. if you put the fuse in and the FWD light comes on (i assume the SVX has one) then the duty c is ok. or at least working at that time . so test drive the car in tight slow circles, then put the fuse in and then do it again. see if there are any changes. i had a 'phantom' trans code on my 97 GT the other day. it lasted a few days and then cleared. the code was triggered by a ''spirited'' drive and was probably valid. but it was not an ongoing problem unless i continued to drive like that. how long have you had the flashing power light.? ever had a duty c problem before? did you read both the stored codes and the current codes? a how to i stole from GD To Check the TCU codes - if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times on startup then you have stored TCU codes. There is a 6 pin black connector above the gas pedal and two grounding wires wrapped into the harness directly above that. Insert one grounding pin into the center pin on the black connector (blue with yellow trace typically), then follow this process: 1: Turn ignition on, apply brake, and place gear selector in 1. Turn ignition off. 2: Turn ignition on. 3: Move selector to 2. 4: Move selector to 3. 5: Move selector to D. 6: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 7: Read morse codes flashes on the AT Temp light. 24 will indicate a bad duty-c. These are "stored" history codes from previous drive cycles. 8: Turn ignition off, then back on. 9: Move selector to 3. 10: Move selector to 2. 11: Move selector to 1. 12: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 13: Read codes again. Codes given here are current faults active in the TCU on the current drive cycle. So, I don't mean to thread jack or anything, but is it a good thing that I did these procedures and the AT temp light didn't flash at all??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavieGravy Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share Posted October 14, 2012 The problem only occurs when the car has warmed up. After warming it up on the highway, the FWD fuse no longer works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavieGravy Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share Posted October 14, 2012 After letting the car cool off for 5 minutes, the FWD light comes back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavieGravy Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 The issue was a bad TCU. Replaced and all is well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigt31 Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 Subaru Svx bad Duty C solenoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigt31 Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 Hello,fellow Subie enthusiast.I bought a 96 Subaru Svx.The previous owner removed the rear drive shaft.He told me the ujoints were bad in it.The at light is blinking 16 times after you start it.I had this same problem in the past with a 95 Subaru outback.I used the connector above the gas pedal to diagnose the Outback.It ended up having a bad Duty C solenoid.My question is does the 96 Subaru Svx have this connector,and if it does.Where is it located.I can't seem to find it.I'm sorry about the long post.Any help would be appreciated.Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 all 96 CARS ARE OBD2, SO YOURS SHOULD HAVE THE CONNECTOR. if like the legos, it should be under the dash above the gas pedal. a black, 6 pin connector with 3 or 4 pins in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 yep should be the same. if the driveshaft is removed and the AT light is blinking and the car is otherwise running fine - it sounds nearly gauranteed it's the Duty C solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhorse001 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Hello,fellow Subie enthusiast.I bought a 96 Subaru Svx.The previous owner removed the rear drive shaft.He told me the ujoints were bad in it.The at light is blinking 16 times after you start it.I had this same problem in the past with a 95 Subaru outback.I used the connector above the gas pedal to diagnose the Outback.It ended up having a bad Duty C solenoid.My question is does the 96 Subaru Svx have this connector,and if it does.Where is it located.I can't seem to find it.I'm sorry about the long post.Any help would be appreciated.Thanks. The diagnostic port is on the dash there is a small door labeled diagnostic something or other. Pop it open, walla! Theres your port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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