Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Pulling engine, etc. through the eyes of a noob

Recommended Posts

I just pulled my first engine yesterday, and I'm documenting my exploits for future reference, and I'm sure someone else might be able to benefit too. It was actually much easier than I expected, but I'm sure going back together will be much more difficult. Not all steps have pictures yet, I will edit as I take more, probably when I put her back in. And PLEASE, if I have forgotten something, or something seems off, let me know, I would appreciate it!


I'm going to do my head gasket (with a complete felpro kit with all the o rings and tiny gaskets), oil pump seal, front crank seal and maybe the oil pan gasket (hopefully).


First, drain oil and coolant, and remove battery.


undo charcoal canister by undoing clip and pulling up, then swing over the intake hose to keep it out of the way

( question: where does the hose on the bottom plug into? :lol: )


loosen clamp holding intake hose to air box, disconnect hose from air box




disconnect air box connector, undo 4 air box clips, remove air box (I did this as the engine was coming out, when I realized it was in the way)


undo 4WD/heater vacuum hose




undo thermoswitch and fan plug ( blue and white respectively )


remove fan shroud


remove radiator






Ah yess the two bolt radiator. That brings back memories **sniff**. It was my first repair on my new Subaru 1993 Loyale - my very first brand new car. I bought in August 1994 for $11k.  At 42,000 miles (I think it was 1997) , I pulled into a freind's drive way and it started peeing all over the driveway. Turns out the el-cheapo plastic sidewalls on the stock radiator had leaked. I remember being so mad at Subaru because the warranty was only until 40,000 miles they would not replace itl So, I went to a radiator shop and asked if there was a replacement without plastic. The guy looked it up and gave me a Legacy radiator. Fit like a glove and to this day at 145k no leaks.


In 2008 at 117K I pulled the engine to do the timing belt, replace the clutch. While there I did the oil pump, water pump, all the pulleys, rear main seal, cam seals. Easier to pull nce than many times.

Edited by MR_Loyale

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice documentation! Hoping anyone can please help me. Related to this thread, I am also attempting to remove my crankshaft sprocket, stuck behind a broken woodruff key. I rented a small gear puller from Autozone. It's main shaft is too small to secure itself in the crankshaft threads. I see that OP has secured his gear puller secured in the crankshaft. Do I need a larger puller or is there some adapter that allow this to happen? Thanks in advance!

Edited by AJFresh

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Agree with the sticky. Pulled many engines now.


Couple of things I was confused about though. I notice you've undone the aircon compressor & pulled it off to the side with the lines still attached, but I didn't really notice anything about that when you wrote it up. I don't know if I just missed it, but didn't seem too obvious.

Ditto about removing throttle cable.


Also, you're labelling of the "green" for the alternator bracket isn't quite correct. Might be for non-aircon cars, but for yours, it's where the aircon compressor bolted down, not a bracket.

also, you don't need to remove the air-con compressor from the bracket, you can remove the bracket completely with it still attached. 2 bolts (one with a really long head) & another sunk in a bit. Plus the one vertically under the alternator. They're easier to get to than the ones you undid.


Agree with Miles about removing that long bolt holding the bracket. As these bolts go into the water jacket, they can rust and sieze. If you're not pulling apart the engine, then leave them well alone.


And if you're going to be undoing the crankshaft pulley, unless you've got access to a rattle gun, much better to do it while the engine is still in the car. With the radiator & fan removed, plus the ignition coil disconnected, get the tool onto the nut with the handle close to the floor on the left side (you might need to place blocks on the floor to get the height) & crank the engine. Just "flicking" the key though, not a full on start. As the nut undoes anticlockwise when you're looking at it, and the engine spins clockwise, it should "crack" it.


Sorry, don't mean to be pickie, but this write-up is very helpful for the noobs and we don't want them doing something wrong by accident :D

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now