Ricearu Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 (edited) Well, my outback spun a rod bearing 1k after headgaskets. I bought it with them blown, so I guess johnny jack@$$ ran it hot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlFzBKZ0qS8&feature=plcp I need to know if I can swap a EJ22 crank into a EJ25D? easily... I have a 90 EJ22 with 150k on it and strong bottom end, parted because of blown head gaskets. Heads are long gone I have a sparkly clean ej25D with a bad rod bearing. Any help on what I can do. Can I bolt ej25D heads directly onto a ej22? What head gaskets to I use? I have 2 weeks and minimal money to get this car going... thanks for any help Edited June 25, 2012 by Ricearu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 You can put the 2.5 heads on the 2.2 block, but I think the drop in compression means a big loss of power. I'd go find a good 2.2 out of a 95 Legacy and drop it in. Rebuild the 2.5 block later, or just rebuild it now and get it done with if you have the $$. You can do it yourself. Split the block, take the crank to a machine shop and have it checked/ polished, order appropriate sized bearings and slap it all back together. Could even take the block down and have it decked to make sure you have a nice flat gasket surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 it may be a challenge in your part of the country, but i would look for an ej25 engine or short block with a busted timing belt. you can use 96 - 99. and with some care, 00 - 04, but these have a higher chance of bad rod bearings. get a short block, put on your heads and go. the ej22 crank will not work, the stroke is too short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 2.2 crank works fine but will drasticaly lower comp from 200-145 will still run fine and last forever we call it a destroker motor and use them with turbo have not ran to many na but it will work as long as they are both phase one engines i have put the 2.5d heads on 2.2 i do that all the time works very well and lasts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 hmmmm. I am gonna tear down the 2.5 and check to see what the machine shop can do for me. I don't have much money but if if it costs me head gaskets and machine work, and isn't ungodly expensive, then I can handle it. sucks I just did the head gaskets too... It's my first time splitting a block, so what do I need to seal it back up? ultra grey like all else? is there any o-rings or anything I need to order to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 There are a few O rings that go between the block halves for coolant/ oil passages. I'd suggest getting those. The crank may be fine, look it over yourself before taking it to the shop. If the bearing surfaces look smooth and clean you can probably just size it and order bearings to fit. But if it needs polishing I wouldn't expect it to be more than $75 - $100. Look into ACL bearings. GD and CCR both recommend them, so they must be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) There are a few O rings that go between the block halves for coolant/ oil passages. I'd suggest getting those. The crank may be fine, look it over yourself before taking it to the shop. If the bearing surfaces look smooth and clean you can probably just size it and order bearings to fit. But if it needs polishing I wouldn't expect it to be more than $75 - $100. Look into ACL bearings. GD and CCR both recommend them, so they must be good. Specifically, the ACL Race Bearings in the red & yellow box. The non-race bearings in the blue & silver box are made in China and are um, sub-standard. Edited June 26, 2012 by ccrinc correction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Specifically, the ACL Race Bearings in the red & yellow box. The non-race bearings in the blue & silver box are made in China and are um, sub-standard. Wow, those ACL bearings are way cheaper than the subaru OEM ones also. Twice the bargin! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 make shure they check the crank to see if its bent of the 6 i had turned 5 were bent and had to be straitend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 (edited) does anyone here have experience with mizumo head bolts? Both for the ej22 and ej25? I am thinking about buying their gasket set and just toss the hg's in lou of dealer headgaskets. The whole gasket set including intake exhaust valve cover etc is cheaper than a dealer set of head bolts by a long shot also, does the ej25d have the thrust bearing in the number 3 or the number 5 position? Edited June 27, 2012 by Ricearu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 # 3 position unless has 8 bell housing bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 it in #3 unless has 8 bell housing bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 What is this "Thrust Bearing" thing? Why is it different than the other 3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 the thrust bearing is what keeps the crankshaft from walking back "in and out" of the case. That movement is called endplay. It takes the load from the clutch etc. It is why you shouldn't idle with your foot on the clutch, you should put it in neutral and take your foot off until you are ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 (edited) the thrust bearing is what keeps the crankshaft from walking back "in and out" of the case. That movement is called endplay. It takes the load from the clutch etc. It is why you shouldn't idle with your foot on the clutch, you should put it in neutral and take your foot off until you are ready to go. and when they went to the phase 2 SOHC engine in 99/00 they move the thrust bearing to the #5 position from the #3 position. EDIT: correction from below by ''ccrinc'', in mid-98 on the dohc engine. thanks emily, i hat posting bad info. Edited June 28, 2012 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Actually, mid-'98 is when they went to rear thrust on the 2.5 engines. You can tell by looking at the back of the block where the rear main seal seats. If there is a ridge there, it's rear thrust. If not, it's center thrust. Emily www.ccrengines.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 (edited) correction by ''ccrinc'', in mid-98 on the dohc engine they moved the thrust bearing. thanks emily, i hat posting bad info. Edited June 28, 2012 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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