1. hypothetically speaking...

what are your thoughts on taking a 2" strut spacer, we'll use one from Bill Ohmlin, hypothetially...

 

getting some 1.5" square tubing and cutting in a fashion of OneEye lift technique, and then welding them onto the strut spacer for a taller lift?

 

yay?

nay?

im crazy for thinkin of it?

 

2.. to lower the suspension tube, and the radius rod mounts, would 11gauge steel work for a 1 or 2" spacer? or need something a bit larger?

2. Or should I say... What's good .25"? I think the 1" sq tube I have is 11 gauge which is about 1/8, slightly under

Badf idea.Plethera of reasons .Just do a 4" if you want one,not only from an engineering standpoint, but also peace of mind.

That being said, It is possible, but I would def. go above 1/8th if you are going to use it at all.Many have tried going lightweight before, didna work.

 

We use 12 ga steel at work ALOT.As strong as it is, it is not meant for such structural pieces that will be getting continuous stress like these blocks do.Even engineered properly it just to thin of a material.

 

Cheers

yeah i figured it wasnt great of an option. but since i had it, i thought i would use it if it was strong enough. i definately dont want to risk safety for weight, i dont really car about being lighter or anything.

 

so, 3/16" or 1/4" would be what to look for then eh?

When you put that 4" on the struts, your going to want/have to drop the subframe, and trannny 3". Use full size blocks, 1/4" tubing. Easy to cut them out. better than breaking axels

 

-Prwa AAE

oh yeah, i know all that about lowerin the cross member etc, with my 2" lift, i already have lowered my cross member in the front with the body blocks from a 2000 outback (bout 1.25"??? maybe?) (

 

just wanna work on some 4" lift blocks for the struts, then i'll make some spacers for the crossmemeber, radius rod/trans mount, and rear suspension tube.

 

the rear will suck as my bolts are siezed up, gonna drill them out and retap the holes on that side.... ugh! i just hope i dont have to cut in and access it from the top of the frame.

id do 3/16" tubing , if its all welded together you can stack the lifts

It would be a pain in the rump roast to take an existing 2" strut spacer and do the DIY square tubing lift on top of it. For one reason, you'd then have a whole extra row of bolts holding everything together, which is just another thing to go wrong. Also, remember that you're gonna need to compensate for camber again, so you're not just making straight spacers, you're doing it offset by probably an inch.

 

I would suggest either making or buying proper 4" strut spacers, and selling your 2" spacers. You could probably get some decent money for them if you put them on your local Craigslist and offered to help whomever buys it to install it on their Sooby.

yeah, i knowi would have to offset them and all. and i'd probably bolt them on. then weld them all together, then weld bolts into the uppers again. im sure it would be fine, but probably just be kinda sketchy lookin..

 

 

i think i am going to try to scrounge up and buy the front and rear 4" spacers, i can probably fab up the rest, unless i can find enough for a whole kit, but i doubt thats gonna happen unless i find a used one.

 

i dont know if i would be albe to sell the 2" kit locally, i think toms (theloyale) the only guy in town that'd be lookin to lift a soob. and he already did!

Well, you never know til you try. Throw an ad on CL and see if there's any interest. I know if I saw a listing for a used ea82 lift kit, I'd be all over it.

thats true, however, of the people that either already have or dont want a lift.. the rest of the people with loyales in town are hoodrats that probably dont even know if they have a 4wd car or not. LOL gotta love milwaukee.

well, depending on price I'd be interested. shipping might hurt though

yeah, i forgot what shipping was FROM washington to here. you might look and find Bill Ohmlin on here and get one from him if he is still makin them, this lift was only $100 for the lift blocks and rear brackets at the time.