I have an 83 GL 2 WD car that is suspect of having a bad distributor.

 

I have located a source for rebuilt distributor.

 

The price for a 2 WD distributor is $200.

 

The price for a 4 WD Distributor is $128

 

Please let me know if they are interchangable.

 

Thank you

 

Jack

You also need the matching coil. For a 4WD that means you need a matching Hitachi coil in place of your ND coil.

 

GD

Thanks for the help.

 

The car has an aftermarket coil.

 

What now coach?

 

Jack

Well - you can use an aftermarket coil but it risks damage to the ignition amp in the distributor (perhaps what has happened to the 2WD unit?). But for the 4WD distributor the ignition module is only about $25 on Amazon. Makes them pretty cost effective to repair and keep a spare replacement around. Only need a couple flat-head screwdrivers or small pry-bars and a #2 phillips to replace the module.

 

GD

I have a nice, working, formerly rebuilt disty from an 83 Brat with Hitachi disty. Would let it go for $80. Has the vac advance done, nice looking cap and rotor and everything worked great when pulled.

 

Can probably find the coil that came from it too. Removed to do an Ej22 swap.

http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-W0133-1628608-HIT-Ignition-Coil/dp/B001HLZ6JG/ref=sr_1_19?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1342693535&sr=1-19&keywords=hitachi+coil

 

Here is an option for the Hitachi coil. I use it on the 87 Brat. I have the one I removed in perfect condition, but without the bracket. Send me a PM if interested.

I think if you use an aftermarket coil it is best to use a ballast resistor. Otherwise I guess you run the risk of frying stuff. I know I had to use one with mine. I run the MSD Blaster coil with the apoxy core.

Ballast resistor drops the voltage when running to lower than alternator output - resulting in a reduction in spark voltage from the coil..... which pretty much defeats the purpose of the aftermarket coil in the first place since the OEM one's work at both cranking voltage and running voltage. A proper Hitachi or ND replacement coil is only about $35 to $40 and unless you are doing something crazy like forced induction it will light the fuel off with 99.999% reliability. There simply is no need for a higher voltage coil if the spark plug is doing it's job. It either lights the fuel/air mix on fire reliably, or it does not. There is nothing to be gained by expensive coils on a stock engine.

 

GD

I didn't claim any performance increases. He mentioned that he was trying to run a ditsy with an aftermarket coil. I was just trying to give some help on a safer way to do it. I chose to run an aftermarket coil because it fits my application better. I found my oem coil leaking oil. I also drive 30+ miles of dirt road a day, so I chose the high vibration epoxy filled coil.

Thanks Y.all for the advise.

 

The aftermarket coil was on the car when I purchased it.

 

I have a coil marked ND and in the morning I will hook it up and see how it runs.

 

I have a distributor coming from Ok.

 

Jack

Just make sure you have a ND disty too

Edited July 20, 201213 yr by The FNG

... I chose to run an aftermarket coil because it fits my application better. I found my oem coil leaking oil. I also drive 30+ miles of dirt road a day, so I chose the high vibration epoxy filled coil.

 

Same case here... My Weberized EA82 Subaru "BumbleBeast" has a High Vibration Accel Superstock 8140 coil (Made in USA) filled with Epoxy instead of Oil, the Nippon Denso Ignition Coil has almost the Same Resistance (Ω Ohms) Value.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited July 26, 201213 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
nobody cared about my question :(

This car was set up for high altitude operation, so I am going to make my own primary system and eliminate the high altitude stuff.

 

I will run a lead from the hot terminal from the switch to a ballast resistor, then to the plus side of the coil.

 

Next run a lead from the start terminal to the positive side of the coil.

 

Then run the orange lead from the negative side of the coil to the distributor

 

Connect the black lead from the positive side of the coil to the black lead going to the distributor.

 

That will eliminate the Jap crap in the entire system.

 

Jack

 

Jack

Good Luck!

Edited July 26, 201213 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo