As far as I Know, if it makes Whirlpools and the Waterpump doesn't Leak and is Spinning freely, it shall be alright, isn't it?

 

I Run my BumbleBeast without thermostat and it looks somehow like your Subie's Rad while accelerating, except that it doesn't make Foam.

 

Have you already tried to Flush your Rad using Deep cleansing Chemicals and Fresh Water Flushes?

No leaks, spins freely, no belt slippage, etc.

 

Temps are fairly consistent all around. No hot spots that I can find.

 

I took it out, stuck a hose in it and the water came out as fast as it went in.....both ways. Not sure if the foam wasnt from the fact I just added water to it after it had boiled over a bit ago.

 

I'm in no shape physically to start yanking on an engine. I will if need be but I want to be doggone sure of it before I go that route.

if your pump is not leaking than its not your pump. i would say it is most likely blockage in the block, try some radiator flush worth a try also there are two different kinds one is made for use when over heating get that one. good luck over heating problems on subies suck.

 

i doubt it is head gaskets you would get no circulation at all if that were the case

Heck, I have driven these things for 15 yrs and this is the first overheating problem I have had, shy of a radiator one time.

i just went through simaler problems with my legacy, thats why i know a little about them

Edited July 30, 201213 yr by mikaleda

Meh....pulled thermostat, flushed it out, used Cascade dish detergent too. Flow is and was fine. Tested thermostat, opens at 180. Drove it 40 miles or so, got 3/4 up the gauge. 90 degrees out, drove it hard. Point and shoot thermometer at the sending unit was about 200.

The Electric fan was Runnin' then?

 

Your Radiator is a Single Row one or a Double Row one?

Fan running, single row. Put thermostat back in, filled it up with water and will take a spin after coffee.

Good Luck!

 

If it doesn't become any better, maybe is time for a Double Row Radiator.

 

Kind Regards.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B5h5jkMRiXtvTDR0SktQWnpTVWs

 

Flow looks fine to me.

i don't remember anyone mentioning the radiator cap. the cap controls the pressure and allows water into the overflow. if it doesnt work right the water can't expand.

Did it. Ordered a radiator today, got to start somewhere.

That's a Good Idea

 

Specially considering the age of the radiator, the fact that it was a Single Row one, and the Lack of a good Radiator shop around your area...

 

I Saw your new video, and the water goin' from one side to the other of the radiator, doesn't mean that it flows thru All the tiny pipes inside.

 

I Hope the new radiator will solve the problem.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited July 31, 201213 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

$49 radiator seems to have fixed it. Still doesnt make sense, the flow on the radiator was quite good. Now, onto other issues.....

Yup! I thinking the same thing when I had the same issue! Glad you for it fixed!

 

 

Prwa AAE

mine was doing the same thing. the bottom half of the radiator gets plugged still allowing decent flow but the radiator isn't cooling as much water.

 

i got some rad flush sloshed it around in the radiator and blew it out with a hose really well.

the only way to tell for sure wether your rad is clogged or not is to get a temp gun and shoot it at the channles and chek the temps that will tell you wich ones are clogged

Nope, that didnt work. The whole thing conducts heat so unless you get it at that split second, it wont work. Mine was constant all the way though, which is why I didnt think it was the radiator.

 

Big radiators are a different story, there is more of an area to check. These little radiators are pathetic when they are new.

i never thought about that, but i have done that several times on larger rads and it works well. i never even tried it on my gl when i replaced the radiator.

I'm new to the USMB, like it.

I had 1986 GL and have 92 Loyale and both at one point started over heating very slowly when the weather would harm up.

I ended up replacing the radaitor in both cars, the flow with a hose in the top and bottom hose off, was poor at best, but would flow.

So I pulled the cap off the radator after they were replace and found that there was about 3 cores that was open the rest were plug tight.

I did try to rod them a little, and ended up breaking the core out.

Hope this helps.