1. do I need to remove the thermostat housing to replace the water pump? my thermostat has been replaced recently, so i don't want to bother removing that and putting in a new gasket if i don't have to.

 

2. does it really matter if cylinder #1 is at TDC before starting the job (manual says to make sure cyl 1 is at TDC)? i'm thinking about it in my head, and as long as the timing marks are lined up and things don't move, i don't really see why it matters which cylinder is at TDC.

 

thanks!

You need to swap over your new (hopefully dealer or stant xactstat) to your new water pump. If your engine is interference, you better damn well replace the water pump and idlers. :cool: OEM AISIN water pumps can be had from rockauto for pretty cheap.

 

 

 

I would do the timing belt by the timing marks. If your engine is interference, the timing marks are the safe zone with all the pistons in the center of their bores. also if you have a DOHC, make sure you spin only one cam at a time or the valves can hang together. They are valve to valve interference.

pretty sure the timing mark will put the pistons at about half travel.

 

Maybe someone else will chime it but, by ensuring no piston is at TDC, if a cam slips - there should be no interference.

yeah, i got a new water pump. so i guess i need a new gasket for the thermostat. oh well, i gotta get a white out/paint pen too.

 

also, to clarify, that's a no on the TDC thing? just make sure all the other timing marks are lined up?

What year/engine would be nice.

 

Most WP's come with the thermostat Oring gasket.

first time doing it. kinda overthought it. here's what was easy:

 

doing the timing belt.

 

here's what made me want to blow up my car and cry and shoot things:

 

1) putting the water pump back in and trying to get the metal gasket to stay on. i ended up using some zip ties through a couple of the holes to get everything lined up, putting the bolts in the other holes, then clipping the zip ties pulling 'em through and putting the screws into the last couple holes. but i didn't think of this before spending over an hour trying to just line things up without the zip ties.

 

2) i used the method where i jammed a screwdriver into the back of the engine where it connects to the torque converter to loosen and tighten the crankshaft pulley nut. this was relatively easy. however, when i was buttoning everything back up, the little plastic cover that goes over the inspection hole almost fell into the torque converter. then when i got it out, it slid under the intake manifolds. several times. bloody knuckles, swearing, sore back ensued.

 

the timing marks on the belt make it seem like you're always gonna be 1/2 a tooth off. i just went with it, turned the engine over a few times with my ratchet to make sure i didn't eff anything up and crossed my fingers. everything felt fine once i started it up!

1. do I need to remove the thermostat housing to replace the water pump? my thermostat has been replaced recently, so i don't want to bother removing that and putting in a new gasket if i don't have to.

 

2. does it really matter if cylinder #1 is at TDC before starting the job (manual says to make sure cyl 1 is at TDC)? i'm thinking about it in my head, and as long as the timing marks are lined up and things don't move, i don't really see why it matters which cylinder is at TDC.

 

thanks!

 

 

I know exactly what your are referring to, the Haynes Manual instructs you to place the engine at TDC for cycl 1 before removing the drive belts. That step is NOT necessary.