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2000 Outback Fuel pump assembly metal cap is broken

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Hey everyone, I have that common problem where the metal twist-on cap that goes on the resevoir on the fuel pump assembly is cracked due to the o-ring expanding too much. Looks like a few of the tabs are cracked. Anyway, I haven't been able to locate one without buying a whole new fuel pump assembly.

 

I noticed that in 2004 or so, Subaru went with an in-tank fuel filter, with a cap that is deeper (to accomodate the filter) but it looks like the attachment interface is the same as the twist on cap I have now. Like this:

 

http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/catalog/2004/Subaru/Outback/Air_and_Fuel_Delivery/Fuel_Filter/OES_Genuine/W0133-ds-1617990.html?filter=part name:Fuel+Filter_make:Subaru_model:Outback_year:2004_

 

Does anyone know if I could order that part (assuming the interface dimensions are the same) and either use just the lid/cap (since my fuel filter is in the engine compartment), or use the filter as well and then remove the filter in the engine compartment / bypass it with some tubing? Would the expanded area within that resevoir impact the fuel pressure?

 

Anyone try this as a work-around?

 

Thanks!

 

Wayne

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  • The '04 part does look similar to the pic in this thread:   http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/26419-2001-subaru-just-shut-down.html  

this; http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_32/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/fuel_tank/illustration_2/

 

 

doesn't show any separate part numbers.

 

 

ebay has helped some folks out that need this part.

 

Supposedly, beck-arnley has an entire assembly that isn't 'too' expensive.

 

 

someone could probably sell a kit with a cap and o-ring them for $39.95 and clean up. I always wonder how many soobs have been towed to a dealer/shop and owners sold an entire pump. Probably charged $500-$750 for that stupid cap - plus the hassle of a tow!

I think this is the first H4 pump doing this I have heard of.

 

I need to hit the junkyard and get a pump so I'm ready for this...

  • Author
this; http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_32/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/fuel_tank/illustration_2/

 

 

doesn't show any separate part numbers.

 

 

ebay has helped some folks out that need this part.

 

Supposedly, beck-arnley has an entire assembly that isn't 'too' expensive.

 

 

someone could probably sell a kit with a cap and o-ring them for $39.95 and clean up. I always wonder how many soobs have been towed to a dealer/shop and owners sold an entire pump. Probably charged $500-$750 for that stupid cap - plus the hassle of a tow!

 

Thanks, much appreciated & very helpful. Looks like the illustration specific to my 2000 model year is

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_20/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/fuel_tank/illustration_2/

 

Interestingly, in this illustration, looking closely at the part breakout for the fuel pump assembly, it appears that it is illustrated with the deeper cap and in-tank filter (see the parts listed next to #14 - this is not the shallow metal cap, but the deeper cap for the filter). This leads me to beleive that I can perhaps buy the 2004 model year in-tank filter (around $35 online) and maybe use the cap & gasket that comes with it. Hopefully the additional volume introduced to the resevoir by doing this won't have an adverse effect on fuel pressure...

 

If that doesn't work, I could use the in-tank filter and by pass the engine compartment fuel filter I have now?

 

Time to experiment!

If that deep cap works with or without the in-tank filter LET US KNOW!!

  • Author
If that deep cap works with or without the in-tank filter LET US KNOW!!

 

Will do...ordering the part tonight

does the filter come with the cap and gasket for sure? how did you verify that?

 

what part number did you use - there is nothing listed next to "14"?

  • Author
does the filter come with the cap and gasket for sure? how did you verify that?

 

what part number did you use - there is nothing listed next to "14"?

 

I'm going off this:

 

http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/catalog/2004/Subaru/Outback/Air_and_Fuel_Delivery/Fuel_Filter/OES_Genuine/W0133-ds-1617990.html?filter=part

 

The attachment interface looks identical to the normal cap I have and also looks very similar to the illustrated part in the graphic.

 

-not sure if it comes with the o-ring. If not, I can source a compatible fuel rated o-ring on Amazon for cheap.

Even if that in tank filter fits, DO NOT remove the underhood filter, as it may still be necessary to properly filter the fuel.

 

This looks like a promising source for the elusive broken metal cap. Definitely waiting to hear how it works out! :popcorn:

this would be an extremely helpful development if it works. Kinda concerned that separate part number isn't shown.

 

I once emailed Airtex to find out if the cap/o-ring for their replacement assembly was available to purchase separately. Got a response that they were not. maybe someone should email Bosch.

  • Author

Part should be here in two days. I'll update everyone here...crossing my fingers!

bit ironic that 7wayne7 and I both ran into this issue on the same day. Kinda surprising Subaru hasnt done a TSB on it and came with an updated part. After looking at how thin and cheesey those locking tabs are, I will def. be looking for an upgrade.

 

I like the idea of the 2004 filter/cap thing, but in reality your fuel tank really doesnt need a sock on the filter, an in-tank filter and the engine bay fuel filter.

 

I've opened up the tank on my 86, and was shocked at how clean the fuel tank still was even after 26 years of running Alaska village gas out of a jerry jug

If the cap fits without the filter, just use the cap...

You know, those broken caps could probably be brazed or silver-soldered just fine.

 

I'll do it if someone wants to send me a lid for which they'd be the guinea pig.

  • Author

 

Thanks for posting those pics. That's EXACTLY the failure mode my metal cap experienced. Right where the 90 deg bend is between the tabs and the cap itself. Exact same location. I put a hose clamp on there and it ran fine for 4 days and then I lost pressure...

  • Author
was it the tab with the ground connection?

 

Yes

that was the one that wasnt cracked out my buddies car. The other two both had stress cracks along the tabs

That metal is just too thin. It doesn't help that the part is stamped. Even after brazing it would fatigue and crack the same way.

 

Someone needs to mold a heavy duty one out of the same ABS that the pump housing is made of, or CNC an aluminum one. :brow:

I still wonder if there is some way to just bypass that chamber. Some kinda alternate plumbing routing . Might be tricky finding hose or pipe materials we could be certain would survive the environment.

 

Also, have we really pinned down the size and material for the o-ring? That new, larger, filter cap doesn't come with one.

 

and, wondering if all that extra mass of the larger cap might make failures MORE frequent/likely?

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan

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