is the body of the horn metal? If so, they may be polarized in the sense that the negative wire is also connected to the metal body of the horn. Check with ohmmeter - might have to push through some paint.

 

Too bad I don't have an ohmmeter, haha. The horn is about 50% plastic, 50% metal. This is a picture of the horn:

 

 

I have the entire metal back taped over, along with tape over the chassis where I'm placing the horn.

 

I know in the instruction manual that comes with the horn, if your OEM wire setup is only one wire, then you ground the horn to itself. But the Loyale has two wires each.

 

Tomorrow, I will take out the headlight, fix the connection issue, and put the headlight back in. If it doesn't work, I'm just gonna try moving the horn in between the grill and radiator, because then obviously my positioning is not working, haha.

Too bad I don't have an ohmmeter, haha. The horn is about 50% plastic, 50% metal. This is a picture of the horn:

 

 

I have the entire metal back taped over, along with tape over the chassis where I'm placing the horn.

 

I know in the instruction manual that comes with the horn, if your OEM wire setup is only one wire, then you ground the horn to itself. But the Loyale has two wires each.

 

Tomorrow, I will take out the headlight, fix the connection issue, and put the headlight back in. If it doesn't work, I'm just gonna try moving the horn in between the grill and radiator, because then obviously my positioning is not working, haha.

 

 

OK, even if the frame is at the negative wire's potential - sounds like you've insulated it so, that can't be the problem.

I think the three-way connector for the ground wires was grounding out. Like I said earlier, last time I had the headlight out, there was still metal exposed on the connector, and based on it's location and how I probably positioned it, there's a good chance that touched the headlight, causing it to ground out. So that probably wasn't insulated well. I wish I could go out and mess with it, but it's nighttime.

Yes, move the Horn's position as I wrote above; also you Might consider to place both Horns Together, Behind the front Grille...

 

I Placed another two-tone pair of Horns on my Wife's Car in that place: Behind the front Grille; (more info, ~► Here.) and seems to make they Blast a Louder Sound from there.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited August 23, 201213 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
The word: "Here" is a Web Link, with Photos ;)

The only complication I can see with putting the horn(s) behind the grill is, is there gonna be enough room? For one, the Loyale's grill is really short and not very deep. Not a lot of space between the grill and the radiator. It'd definitely be louder, as the sound waves can just go straight forward.

Okay, moved the horns to behind the grill. Managed to find mounting places that would allow the grill to fit over the horns (oh, and yeah, I moved both horns). Moved the wiring around a bit and managed to get both sides working beautifully. Only thing now is to put the headlights back in and hope the wiring doesn't ground out somewhere. :-p

 

I used the mounting brackets that came with the horn, behind the grill. Under the headlamps, the horns were basically just being held in place by the force of the body and bumper squeezing it. Behind the grill, I have mounted them properly. But then I have to ask, what difference does it make? I believe it made a difference, but it shouldn't. The mounting brackets are metal, and connect to a metal screw on the horn, and touch metal on the body. So in theory, it should be grounding out like it was before. I don't know. As long as if they work, I don't care much. Let's just hope I can get the car reassembled without problems.

Multiple posts.... I don't usually do it, haha.

 

Okay, I have put the car back together. Headlights and grill. Horns work perfectly! I really do have to say thanks for all your help guys! I can imagine, though, that I'm gonna get into an accident, the front end will crumple a bit, and the horns will ground out. It'll be a small fender bender or something and the horns will be just blaring. That'd be funny, and make good footage for my dash cam. :-p So yeah, hopefully I'll finally be heard on the road.

... The mounting brackets are metal, and connect to a metal screw on the horn, and touch metal on the body. So in theory, it should be grounding out like it was before. I don't know...

 

As I Wrote:

 

... The Horn body (itself) is isolated from the ground on its metal plate that fixes it to the car's chassis, that is the reason for independent Ground wire and positive wire on a Horn: it is Not Grounded to its metal base...

 

So, Their inner (Core) is Isolated.

 

 

 

... thanks for all your help guys! ...

 

You're Welcome!

Woops, guess i must've missed that. Oh well, they're up and working now. This is probably one of the few times I'm actually gonna say this, but I want someone to cut me off! :-p Thanks again! I really appreciate it!

I realize this is a little late but on the Daniel Stern website there is a diagram to wire up a relay for ground switched cars. I did use it for headlights but in theory should work for the horn also. Basically you use the hot for a trigger but the factory ground wire for the horns is now the the relay ground so that leaves the + feed to wire up and the + output ... relay is done. Then ground the horns if not mounted to a grounded metal body part. Good to hear you got it going though.