BrokenSubaru Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 I just finished a front brake job, and took it for a test drive. When I got I could smell the brakes. My right front rotor was blue from the heat. I took the tire off, and the hot rotor had play, when I bolted the tire back on the brakes are dragging? Could it be a bad caliper, where piston is not all of the way in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Yup, or seized slider pins where the bolts hold the caliper to the bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 I just finished a front brake job, and took it for a test drive. When I got I could smell the brakes. My right front rotor was blue from the heat.Did you use Brake & Caliper Grease in all the right places? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Right, you often can't just 'pad slap' used cars. At the minimum the sliders must be serviced, and sometimes, pushing the caliper pistons back into the bore, will make them seize up if they had any rust around the bore (which you can't really see). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 I just finished a front brake job, and took it for a test drive. When I got I could smell the brakes. My right front rotor was blue from the heat. I took the tire off, and the hot rotor had play, when I bolted the tire back on the brakes are dragging? Could it be a bad caliper, where piston is not all of the way in? can you be more specific about everything you did in you 'brake job'? pads only? rotors and pads? new hoses? is the problem on one side only? also, did you put on different wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Right, you often can't just 'pad slap' used cars. At the minimum the sliders must be serviced, and sometimes, pushing the caliper pistons back into the bore, will make them seize up if they had any rust around the bore (which you can't really see). This happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenSubaru Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share Posted October 14, 2012 I got a new caliper, and it looks like the old needed about 1/8" more compression. So even though the caliper was loose on the rotor, bolting the wheel on tried to compress it more into the caliper. Let's hope this it, I'm half way through installing it, and it raining Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 I got a new caliper, and it looks like the old needed about 1/8" more compression. So even though the caliper was loose on the rotor, bolting the wheel on tried to compress it more into the caliper. Let's hope this it, I'm half way through installing it, and it raining ??? you replaced the inner and outer pads, were able to slip the caliper back over the rotor, and the wheel still hit the caliper? If anything, a piston that won't retract should create MORE clearance for the wheel. I think I'm missing something here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Sounds like seized slider pins weren't letting the caliper move over enough. When the rotor was loose on the hub it could center itself in the caliper, when the wheel was bolted down it was pressing against the inboard pad because the caliper couldn't move over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 ^^ I'd agree with that theory, especially if it's a gt/outback with the dual piston brakes. The slide pins on those always seize up in the rustbelt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 Sounds like seized slider pins weren't letting the caliper move over enough. When the rotor was loose on the hub it could center itself in the caliper, when the wheel was bolted down it was pressing against the inboard pad because the caliper couldn't move over. excellent. bet that's it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrokenSubaru Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 The new caliper fixed it! The dual pistons needed to go back in about 1/8" more. The sliders were good, and I reused the slider without re-building it. This was very weird because I never thought to test the rotation of the wheel after the tire was installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.