When everything goes up. Must come down.

 

Got a ride from my sister home last night... She leaves Ned... This morning took my moms truck to get insurance and my license reinstated, drove home () and then hop in Ned, let him warm up... I drive around town, getting my maxima alternator for tomorrows swap... Got stuck behind a truck doing 35 in a 45

 

 

I ALWAYS check my gauges, constantly... just for heat, oil pressure etc... Im very aware of my surroundings and what is going on with my cars, always have been, always will be... I noticed the gauge wasnt at 12V exactly... and my wipers on INT were kinda dragging themselves...

 

Then about 20 mins later I notice Im well below the 12V mark about 1/2 way... I pull over immediately, get out, check, the belts a tad bit loose (texted GD) turns out cant be causing drop in volt cuz not that loose. Hop back in, shut off radio, heat, wipers etc and told Ned to get me home. He did.

 

I check the alternator, 12.3V with engine running (FFFFFFUUUUUU) and no electronics on. So I take a look at the alternator and see the rubber boot is cracked and basically came off in my hand to reveal this:

 

 

So for those that stuck along to read my story... thanks... If you skipped... What happened? Why has he been doing fine for so long then all of this happened?

 

Hoping the solution is: Get a new wire for that section (replace it basically) and get a new alternator (MAXIMA ALTERNATOR FTW) and have no issues?

Could have been a loose connection. A loose connection will increase the resistance, which in turn will generate heat at the connection. That may be what has happened here, at least thats what it looks like to me.

Could it be the gap? When I first tried swapping to a maxima alternator the hole wasnt big enough, so I took wire cutters and cut the connection and opened it... do you think its been arcing in the cap on the wire connection?

Yep, should just be able to swap the wire, swap the alternator, and add another 10awg wire to carry the difference in load from the 90A Alt. (if you're going to install lights, sound, etc). Im just looking for a pulley and I'll be doing the swap as well.

Looks like there's some corrosion or something going on, in addition to the crispiness. You might be able to strip the wire back a bit and crimp/solder on a new ring terminal without replacing the whole thing. That is if the corrosion isn't all the way up the wire.

 

The gap shouldn't cause that as long as it's tight and clean. When you fix it a dab of dielectric grease on the ring terminal before you put it together will keep it from corroding.

Replace at least 12" back up that wire whatever alt you use.

 

And you may want to add a new wire as suggested directly to the battery (remember to fuseable link it at the battery) either way

 

definately if upgrading to 90A alt and using extra lights/subwoofer or HID lights

Going to check the condition of my connection. Thanks for posting this, should be a good reminder to people..

 

The way that 1,000 watt amp and the two subs in the back of the car have been kicking...seems a bit too good to be true to be trouble free

 

Also! In the first picture I notice you have the hazards located on top of your steering column. Was this just the way it was on earlier models, or is your vehicle a Canada import, having not to abide by the law necessitating those kill my battery switches most of us have there?

 

Just curious.

Edited December 21, 201213 yr by l75eya

Was this just the way it was on earlier models, or is your vehicle a Canada import, having not to abide by the law necessitating those kill my battery switches most of us have there?

 

Just curious.

 

yes, early models

 

85,86

Thank-you, sir.

Im pretty sure that is caused from a bad connection going to the positive battery terminal. Alt. is trying to charge the battery but the bad connection wont allow it.

 

Listen to Gloyale and add a new cable to battery, clean connections, and dielectric every connection you see.

 

I thought 8 gauge was the best choice in cable?

 

A friend of mines Corolla did a similar thing. replace alt. output cable(8 gauge)and new terminal clamps with dielectric grease on every new connection.It is charging good now.

 

Good luck

Well guys, went to GeneralDisorders shop

 

 

Made it there with the bad alternator. Was toast.

 

He did this:

 

And Ned also shifts a ton better with Subaru Super S in the transmission!

Nice work, there. The alt looks new... where can we order one?

No JY in Tillamook or anywhere near.

This is a USA Industries alternator from a 1985-1994 Maxima 3.0L V6. I think the specific one is supposed to be a 1986-1994, but this one appears to be doing its job just fine...

 

I would honestly go with a 1986-1994 3.0L V6 Nissan Maxima. Theres a thread about it... search Nissan Maxima Alternator to get the thread... Rick (GeneralDisorder) did a fantastic job on the write-up and doing my conversion...

This is a USA Industries alternator from a 1985-1994 Maxima 3.0L V6. I think the specific one is supposed to be a 1986-1994, but this one appears to be doing its job just fine...

 

I would honestly go with a 1986-1994 3.0L V6 Nissan Maxima. Theres a thread about it... search Nissan Maxima Alternator to get the thread... Rick (GeneralDisorder) did a fantastic job on the write-up and doing my conversion...

 

An old thread, yes, I know. But one that still may be worthy of helping others. I myself scoured the wonderful USMB for hours before finding it here at .http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/97208-bolt-in-ea-series-alternator-upgrade-nissan-maxima-alt-installation-guide/