April 1, 201313 yr Author oh look....... rust.... yay... whatevs... fixed the rust up top behind the tail light and stuffs... so to ensure my work doesnt go to sh!t i need to find a new hatch soooooon
April 3, 201312 yr Author Boring update: Pulled the brake lines and master cylinder of a auto loyale. I now have brakes. And I may have accidentally lit the body kit on fire.....
April 6, 201312 yr I'm confused. What car are you hunting down ej25 heads for. For some reason i thought you had decided to ej this one. Do you have a spare stock turbo?
April 7, 201312 yr Author downpipe is done and bolted in, o2 is in intercooler is bolted in for the final time ground straps added wire for water temp sender run as well IC water pump+ reservoir in place/bolted down
April 8, 201312 yr Author Exhaust is totally done and bolted in Oil catch can is done and in IC to heat exchanger lines are in Grill put back on Air filter bracket fabed up
April 13, 201312 yr Author Really hoping to fire this thing up on Sunday, so expect late night updates and poor overly tired grammar, is my work shift over yet??!!
April 13, 201312 yr I also am going to need a new hatch soon. My trunk is nothing like that though. Check out this auto wrecking database for your lid. Prices are surprisingly low, so shipping to FL might not be out of the question. Listed as "lid" http://car-part.com/ Edited April 13, 201312 yr by tizzle
April 13, 201312 yr Author Huh, appreciate the heads up, looks like everything is a minimum of 400miles away, no surprise. They do list a white no spoiler/wiper for 150. Hmmmmm
April 13, 201312 yr I assume the lids are shaped exactly the same so the spoiler should transfer over after drilling a couple holes
April 14, 201312 yr Author Yea, they are. no differences between 3dr or RX. it would be easier to make a mold for carbon fiber hatch without everything attached. ACC belts in. water pump for IC is wired. Thermoswitch in the rad is in. Fan is in. vacuum from intake to ecu is ran. Wireing is done, well except a 6" lead to a switch, put in a battery, all guages and what have you light up and are ready to go. tomorrow will be throw the halltech in, load my base map, check the tank, add fuel and turn key. dont expect to drive it tomorrow as i have 1 oddball tire on it and the shifter linkage is partially disassembled.
April 15, 201312 yr Author ok, correction when you first turn the motor over you get one strong spark, then nothing. any ideas?
April 15, 201312 yr igniter?distributor (swap in another one if you have it), it houses the crank angle sensor which i think the ECU requires to trigger spark? i've only seen two "go bad" and in both cases it happened on a motor that sat...coincidence or something inside gets corroded....
April 15, 201312 yr Author Justin, I get 12v to the coil. I need to further test the igniter. Gary, the CAS is working as when I crank it over the haltech reads the rpms. Also I'm afraid I don't have another disty to quickly swap.
April 15, 201312 yr Justin, I get 12v to the coil. I need to further test the igniter. Gary, the CAS is working as when I crank it over the haltech reads the rpms. Also I'm afraid I don't have another disty to quickly swap. Both times I had this happen - the distributors seemed to be working...I just found one post from one of those incidents and I see that I mention I did have spark and everything "seemed" to be working properly - both of those times the car started when i installed another distributor. I would have never tried it in this case posted below had i not seen it happen once before. not likely to be your issue but if you keep hitting dead ends on more likely areas might be worth a shot to clean your existing one out or find another to test. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/119886-xt6-turns-over-does-not-start-or-try/?hl=%2Bdistributor+%2Bstart
April 16, 201312 yr I also had a bad distributor that seemed to fire but it was making weak spark.... That was an 86 disty but still. Sorry you didn't crank it.
April 16, 201312 yr Author ok so here is the update. CAS in the disty has been replaced Igniter replaced Pulled the disty and confirmed which wire is which. When you first turn the engine over you get 1v at the igniter causing a spark, it then immediately drops to .1v and stays there. Not sure where to look on this one
April 17, 201312 yr Author Sent the map to haltech, they made a few suggestions, ill try it again in a few days, other than that I'm still at a total loss.
April 19, 201312 yr Author !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got a call from Scott at Haltech (from Australia) we didn't get it running but he showed me what I was doing wrong and did get it to spark consistently. which meaaaaaans. tomorrow after work this this is absolutely going to run!!! now to go home and count trigger wheel teeth
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now