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Making a Polyurethene Bush or Bushing

Featured Replies

Nice write up, lots of pics and well written. :cool:

  • Author

Hi all, many thanks for your positive comments. Bendecker, did you use a vinyl mould or is that a plaster mould with blue relase agent on it for those mirrot backs?

Is this the same Brat I got you a mirror for years ago?

 

The one that broke off by a badly tossed hay bale? Yep!

Hi all, many thanks for your positive comments. Bendecker, did you use a vinyl mould or is that a plaster mould with blue relase agent on it for those mirrot backs?

 

I used silicone. It releases really easily, but is expensive and tends to warp over time if you don't keep an original in it. You can crank out a lot of parts quickly with it, though, and it's really easy to work with. The detail is so perfect you can see lettering and even really minor scratches that were in the original.

 

BTW, I got motivated and just added some more pics of parts I've made, including the plastic parts that go between the back headrests and the vertical pieces they slide on.

Edited by bendecker

  • Author

first class work - excellent; my parts look very crude by comparison (but cheap!).

The one that broke off by a badly tossed hay bale? Yep!

I'm glad to see you're still keeping the old guy in good shape!!!

Bushings don't have to be pretty, they just have to work. And cheap is a bonus! I'm definitely going to follow your lead when they need to be replaced on my Brat.

Edited by bendecker

  • Author

You're right, cheap is always good. Here's enough for either 2 sets of rear spring-damper units (1991 EA82 Wagon) or (I don't know if they're the same) perhaps two front and two rear? 

 

bush044_zps17a4fd19.jpg

 

And the mould is still ok - so more will be very cheap!

  • Author

(Below) Here is set fitted to the spring-damper unit,

 

bush047_zps82b4ad42.jpg

 

(Below)...used in conjunction with a bought Powerflex 60mm coaxial bumpstop. As I've also replaced the suspension arm bump-stop, the rear suspension will hopefully feel a lot more planted than before. Previously the car tended to 'float and bounce' too much on undulating fast roads. As for the longevity of the bushes, time will tell.

 

bush049_zps7410341b.jpg

  • 4 months later...
  • Author

To make the ride even smoother, to get rid of a slight front-end clunk and to help, possibly, remove the wheel shimmy and brake judder (it's a long story!) and to firm up the anti-roll bar (sway bar), I have replaced the anti-roll bar link bushes. The pics are self explanatory. You'll see one cardboard mold is a bit crap - I couldn't find my scissors or a knife for love nor money (just moved loads of things and tidied up so I could paint the workshop floor) so it has a torn edge.

 

anti-rollbarbushes001_zpsf42d0440.jpg

 

anti-rollbarbushes002_zpsa4a4efc1.jpg

 

Bushes very worn; one worse than another.

 

anti-rollbarbushes003_zps9ae1d8f6.jpg

 

I measured the inside diameter of the anti-roll bar end and found a socket with outside diameter same size

 

anti-rollbarbushes005_zpse4fa3025.jpg

 

 

 

then a socket of outside mold diameter

 

anti-rollbarbushes006_zps03e91076.jpg

 

anti-rollbarbushes007_zpsc19fc787.jpg

 

Inner sleeve/crush tube sits in the middle of each and polyurethene is mixed and poured

 

anti-rollbarbushes009_zps8242825e.jpg

 

anti-rollbarbushesandtidy-up010_zps4f637

 

A reasonable result for rough and ready job. Exact dimensions were not critical and the bushes fitted with very firm pressur from both thumbs plus help from a dab of dishwashing liquid. Off on a 100 miles plus trip to JapFest2 to have the car displayed with some Brats on a classic Brat stand display (there's no L-series/leone/loyale club because there's less than a dozen left on UK roads in total) - so if the polyurethene stands up to that trip I expect it will be ok. (The rear shock bushes are still fine by the way). Toodle-pip chaps!

Edited by NickNakorn

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