So I guess it was leaking or got low enough that it had no reading.. anyways the steering is stiff and adding fluid again it's still stiff..

 

I assume I need to prime it? How does that go?

look inside the PS fluid tank while idling. there should be no foam or bubbles.

 

any idea where the fluid went?

Edited March 1, 201313 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

it should be self priming.

but turning it from lock to lock several times will help eliminate air from the system.

Fill P/S reservoir with ATF, then as stated above turn steering wheel lock to lock to price the system. Check for fluid lead at the reservoir. There is an "O" ring that can break on the reservoir unit, and cause fluid leakage. That is what happened on my 99 OBW.

It's not really doing anything no bubbles, I do know when I did have power steering I would hear what seemed like an air leakage from the backside of the pump but I could never 100% pinpoint it.. I refilled it almost a week ago and the level has yet to drop or change... the wheel is still tight, it's more annoying when the wheel does not really turn back to center.

If it were me, I would go to a wrecking yard, and pull a replacement pump, then swap it in for the one that is giving you trouble. WY sourced pumps don't cost much. Long ago, I replaced one on a 91 Leggie that broke. Pretty easy to swap out. Replacement pump worked great. That was a lot easier then trying to repair a pump that I didn't know what was wrong with it.

is the wheel alternately easy-hard-easy-hard-easy as you turn it?

 

There does seem to be a rash of bad steering U-joints ltely that cause that.

No, it feels just like a car with no power steering.

Going to put the front end up in a few its hard to turn being I got winter tires as well.

I just came back from priming the rack.. I did 50 times left right full lock, and then 10 times with the car running, it feels far far more lighter when turning when car is stopped and when moving.. I know it wont be totally smooth giving the large soft thread blocks of the winter tires but my wrists feel better already!

I was reading the service manual today.. pretty much the pump is toast... it must of happened when the level dropped low, the vanes might of got really worn, plus the pump would hiss on the backside (still does) I will get another pump after I'm done with this other stuff..

 

Debating if I just want to change the whole rack or not.. I know at least one of the dust boots is really ripped and I can't remember if the seal was bad or not.. can't remember which side.

the racks are easy to change out- if you find one from a good parts doner, might be good to grab both the pump and rack.... just for piece of mind if anything

 

on another note, my friend and I discovered that you can install an EA82 standard (non power steering) rack into a legacy....    and even with 27" BFG tires and a lift kit- it steers easily!

 

not that I would reccomend that to anyone, but in case you were wondering

Yeah I had a look on RS25 of something changing the rack, pretty easy.. Given I still have my snow tires on and the rubber is softer on them makes the steering that much harder in feel when turning, When I had the front in the air if you turn the wheel lock to lock you could see the drop in rpm but you could tell the pump really was not doing the job.

 

I will have to check out a rack once the weather warms up more.

lol was driving my friends Forester today felt good not to have a work out session with the steering wheel.. but anyways I assume when I get the nut off the pulley it should be pretty easy to pull off? I think I'm going to powder coat it a anodized color.. maybe red since I already have 2 thinks red on the car.