Hi everyone,

 

This is my first post on here and i've gone through as many post as i possibly could to find out my problem. So here it is,

I currently have a 1993 Loyale Wagon 5sp 4X4, and while replacing the stock radio with a new one, the wiring diagram that i got must have been wrong because when i hooked up all the radio connections correctly I heard a clicking noise behind the gauge cluster so i quickly turned off the car and unplugged the radio(note i did unplug the battery before plugging the wires together). After I did that I started the car back up and noticed that my dash lights wouldn't turn on but the lights for the high beams the doors and the parking light all still work. Also my rear running lights went out as well! But the brake lights still work. I went through all of the relays that are tucked up under the dash and they all work just fine. The head lights work fine but just no dash/running tail lights! Anyone got any suggestions that might be my problem?

 

Thanks,

 

Brayden

Edited March 9, 201313 yr by bsc09

Stupid question but it's always possible to be over-looked;

Did you check to see if you blew any fuses?

Dash and tail lights are connected through the same fuse, that is the first thing I would check.

The dash and running lights are tied together on a fuse different from the brake and headlights. I forget which fuse handles the dash lights but it might be fuse 11 or 12. A lot of folks mistake a bad fuse for a good one on the first check. The best way to make sure a fuse has power and is ok is to use a test light probe and check the small slits on top of each side of the fuse.

Or throw a known good fuse of the same amperage in it's place. Check your lights after. Hopefully it's something simple!

Thanks guys, and I did check all the fuses that are located on the left side down on the bottom. They all seemed to be good but I'll go back through with a known good fuse and take a look.

Putting in a known good replacement fuse is a good idea but until you test the fuse position for power you can still have a possible power problem and not know it is there. Having at least a test light probe to check problems like this can save a lot of time in looking for this kind of trouble.

Alright i'll go ahead and get one of those. I have a multimeter that that has a light indicator on it that will tell me if the correct amount of current/voltage is flowing through there but not sure if thats the same thing. But I really appreciate the help from everyone! I will update the status after I try everything out and hopefully its just an easy fix. 

A true digital multimeter is far above what you currently have. So for around 40 dollars you will have a great tool to use. Once you get familiar doing various tests with it you will wonder how you got by without it. I suggest you get one that has a seperate 10 amp current test port so you can test higher currents when needed. Also try to get one that blocks DC volts while in the AC volt mode. If you can afford it in your buget getting a Fluke model would be the ultimate but not truely necessary. Here is a link for an Innova model which is a brand a number of auto stores carries. It sells for around 40 dollars and would work great for you. There are other models available also.

 

http://www.equus.com/Product/3320/Auto-Ranging-DMM

Sorta the same thig happend to me on my woman's car, I was messing with the radio heard a pop, some of the light stoped working and the auto seat belts stoped working. I looked at the fuses several times. And missed the one that was burnt out, untill I found a diagram that showed me what it was.. I'd pull each and every fuse out and inspect it so you know for sure that there's good.

 

Good luck!

 

-Prwa

If you connected radio to a red or a red/green wire you got it wrong. Those are the dimmer circuit wires (dash lights)

 

Alot of diagrams are wrong and show red as Pos. which it isn't.

 

Pos power should be blue/yellow wire and green wire( Ig. & Batt)

 

You will also need to run new front speaker wires to the front kick panels, and use stock wiring for rear speakers. Otherwise the deck will burn up. Factory wiring uses common speaker grounds per side which will kill a modern deck.

If you connected radio to a red or a red/green wire you got it wrong. Those are the dimmer circuit wires (dash lights)

 

Alot of diagrams are wrong and show red as Pos. which it isn't.

 

Pos power should be blue/yellow wire and green wire( Ig. & Batt)

 

You will also need to run new front speaker wires to the front kick panels, and use stock wiring for rear speakers. Otherwise the deck will burn up. Factory wiring uses common speaker grounds per side which will kill a modern deck.

Okay I will do that, and yeah all the diagrams that i found said the red was the Pos. so thanks for the input.

 

Also to everyone else that helped me, thank you. The problem was in fact a blow fuse, I had double checked all of them but not close enough the bad fuse had no discoloring nor was the metal broken but it did show some imperfections on it so I just replaced it and now every thing works!!    

That bit about changing the wiring or it will kill your deck, I dispute. I've had a kenwood deck in the Loyale for over 2 years now with no issues on stock wiring. The only issue that can be had is if you were to try and adjust the fade. Because of the common ground, if you try and adjust the fade to run just the back or front speakers, or adjust it so the back or front speakers are out of balance, that most definitely will cause problems.
If you keep the fade at 0  (all four speakers getting equal power) you should be fine.

It is smart, however, to run all new wiring, as I did in my GL. You don't *have* to though, is what I'm saying.

The IC amplifiers inside the newer decks use a balanced output to drive the speaker so neither of the two wires going to the speaker is grounded to the chassis. They are isolated from ground.. No pun intended and as usual, Gloyale's advice is sound.

Okay I will do that, and yeah all the diagrams that i found said the red was the Pos. so thanks for the input.

 

Also to everyone else that helped me, thank you. The problem was in fact a blow fuse, I had double checked all of them but not close enough the bad fuse had no discoloring nor was the metal broken but it did show some imperfections on it so I just replaced it and now every thing works!!    

 

Glad to hear it. And you got to use that cool little pulling tool that is in the fuse box too!