I have 2006 Outback Limited, when making tight slow turns I can feel the torque bind. If I back out of my driveway with the wheel turned and then shift into drive it hits in hard. When the car is in park and I turn off the ignition it will slightly lurch forward.

I have measured all the tires and all are the same, although I did drive the car on a low tire for about 40 miles the day I bought it. it was at about 20PSI

I have checked the voltage to the transfer clutch duty solonoid 1.5 to 1.8 Volts with the solonoid connected, key on, 1st gear, not running.

I have checked the voltage at the solonoid with the AWD Fuse in, 0 volts at the solonoid. The car still binds with the AWD use IN. I have checked the trans temp sensor, 4000 ohm at 70 degrees F.

I have checked the throttle position sensor ,  (OK)

I have changed the fluid twice. one flush and one filter and drop with subaru ATF.

I think the transfer duty solenoid is under the trans pan on this unit and not in the tailshaft area. Please confirm.

Not sure where to go from here, anything else I could check?

 

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Chris

If binding even with the fuse in it is a mechanic issue. The clutch plates have probably worn grooves into the output drum and are unable to unlock.

Do you have VDC? Is it a 4 or 5 speed auto trans?

This is a 4spd automatic. Has 120,000 miles on it

 

Thanks

the solenoid should get power with the FWD fuse in....but you may need to be driving it for the TCU to do that?

zero power to the Duty C = fully locked/torque bind.

it needs power to control the clutch pack, but i'm not sure the voltage you're seeing is what is actually happening depending how the controller operates.

 

Duty C failing can also cause torque bind that won't go away with FWD fuse installed. 

2005 forester - clutch bind started just after out of warantee (68K mi).  I had my mechanic put in redline synthetic ATF (OK'd by Subaru tech line first).  Clutches are now smooth with just a little shaking of the tailshaft between 20 and 25 mph under load.  There were no error diagnostics in the computer and solinoids checked out perfect.  When it quits next time, I'll pull the drum and clutch packs and replace them.  Now have 96K on the car. ATF was $28/qt - not cheap!

OH GOD PLEASE DONT MAKE ME DO THAT AGAIN!!!  I hate the new FSM style. it makes nipper angry, nipper wants to smash things...

 

 

Anyways.

 

Under the relay cover (under the hood) is the FWD "switch". they call it a switch now, well aint that fancy. Uppity manual.

Anyways...

Put a spare fuse in the spot marked FWD switch, and that should energize the Duty C solenoid to hold it open and disable the AWD The AWD light shoul be on on the dash. If it is a bad solenoid there should be no change. If it is mechanical there should be a change.