First one I've split to check out rod knock damage. There were no signs of a rod bearing left on #1 other than a good amount of metallic powder inside the oil pan. It was another learning experience for me to say the least. The phase-1 94 Impreza block I swapped in last June is holding up good. It was a cheap 150 dollar EJ22 I'd found on Craigslist.

First one I've split to check out rod knock damage. There were no signs of a rod bearing left on #1 other than a good amount of metallic powder inside the oil pan. It was another learning experience for me to say the least. The phase-1 94 Impreza block I swapped in last June is holding up good. It was a cheap 150 dollar EJ22 I'd found on Craigslist.

This is the same I'm going to do to a Ej25 Phase I block, has really bad rod knock to the fact the car will not run on it's own, looking forward to doing this.

 

Did you make a tool to get the wrist pins out?

the cranks can be turned down and engines rebuilt yours needs one rod but if 2.2 is same rod all years cost me 150 $ to get crank turned.

This is the same I'm going to do to a Ej25 Phase I block, has really bad rod knock to the fact the car will not run on it's own, looking forward to doing this.

 

Did you make a tool to get the wrist pins out?

Yes, I put a large/long nail in the end of a slide hammer. The head of the nail was just the right size. The wrist pins were tight and difficult to extract so I sprayed them with Blaster which seemed to help alot. Substantial varnish in the block.

the cranks can be turned down and engines rebuilt yours needs one rod but if 2.2 is same rod all years cost me 150 $ to get crank turned.

If I don't get all the bearing granules out of all the oil passages will it screw up the future new bearings?

yes two realy bad spots to watch for meatal inside cams and rocker tubes also the oil passages in block

Once you remove the covers, remove front circlip. Then from the opposite side use a stiff thin rod to push it out. (this is shown somewhere on youtube also). You'll be able to snake the rod past the opposing rod.

To install I made a drift of 3/4' dowel. works very well.

Don't put on oil pan before you get pins in, it'll allow you to stake the rod with wood shims, so they keep their orientation.

Best to have crank machined, so all of the journals are the same size. They don't always come from the factory with the same size.

Subaru sells crank bearings individually, but rod bearings only in a set. Since you'll be machining the rod journals to one size this will be the easy part.

Make sure you read the spec page on the engine, so you'll know what sizes the crank has.

There will be 5 letters on the crank with any combination of A - D. A is std., B .03, C .05 and D .25. All in mm.

 

O.