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Trident

EA82 w/ new Weber popping back through carb

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Hello. I was just wondering if you resolved the problem. I just put back together my '85 ea82 and am having same issue. Pretty much exactly. Thanks.

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Sorry I've been away guys, my wagon's sat at an exhaust shop for the better part of last week awaiting repair/replacement of the y-pipe/cat converter. The bottom of the front cat was almost completely rotten. I think that's where it sat for years full of coolant from the leaking head gaskets. Sad to say, my exhaust guy must've gotten in trouble or something....he won't weld pipe where a cat used to be :(

Anyways, I ordered a new Davico replacement y-pipe/cat that will be delivered tomorrow.

 

 Did you do a compression test?       

 

I haven't yet. Once I install the new y-pipe I will

 

Firing order is 1324

 

arranged like this when looking from front.

 

2--4

1--3

 

Set timing belts to the 3 hash marks....not the 0 tdc.

 

Also, it wouldn't hurt to plug the large tube that comes off the side of the EGR vavle.  That guy can be a nasty Vac leak.

 

Gloyale, are you sure it's not

3--4

1--2

instead?

 

 

Just curious.........is the Weber a real Weber that was made in Spain or a counterfeit knock-off?

 

How old is the catalytic converter?

 

Results of a compression test?

 

I bought the carb from www.webercarbsdirect.com      I sincerely hope it's genuine

 

Did you rotate the crank between installing each belt?  It's needed.  I didn't here you mention it.

 

When properly timed, with the crank at the center of the 3 belt timing lines the dots on the cams should be 1 straight up, and the other straight down.

 

On TDC #1 compression, they should be  passenger: 45 degrees up and out, Drivers: 45 degrees down and out.    Or like 10:30 and 4:30 to use the clock reference.

 

I did indeed rotate the crank between belts.

 

Did you replace spark plug wires recently?  Have you checked the wire routing and separated them to check for cross-firing?

 

Yes, all new plugs & wires during the reseal. The new NGK wires I got even have the cylinder #s printed on them! haha

 

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The previously listed firing order, by someone who has worked on Subaru's for 15+ years, is still :

 

1   3   2   4

 

 Laying out numbers in a horizontal--vertical pattern can be confusing at times.

Attached are several images that can help.

 

 

post-8313-0-02231400-1393313034_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

The reason that I asked about plug wires is they look too long. Cross-fire is easier to check for than a burned/stuck valve, dropped valve rocker.

 

About that WEBER: Is the choke housing black or white?  Mine is white, neener, neener, neener.

Edited by silverback

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Hey fellas, sorry for the delay. Won't bore you with the details so I'll get to it

 

Compression test completed

Cylinder #1 155

Cylinder #3 130

Cylinder #2 155

Cylinder #4 145

 

I'm gonna take that to mean it's not a valve problem.

 

Edited to add: It won't pop when its cold.....or pops very little. As the engine warms up the popping increases in frequency and intensity

Edited by Trident

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Yes the EGR is unplugged now. I cut & welded both of the EGR/ASV/whatevers coming off the bottom of the cylinder heads.

 

While fooling with it last night, I think we have it narrowed down to timing...specifically the distributor or cap/rotor. The cap/rotor have not been replaced during this project so I was going to start there. Can anyone tell me the OEM part numbers for the cap & rotor?

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Yes the EGR is unplugged now. I cut & welded both of the EGR/ASV/whatevers coming off the bottom of the cylinder heads.

 

 

Those are ASV pipes.  Nothing to do with EGR.

 

 

 

EGR is the pipe from top of pass...side head to manifold.

 

 

 

Compression test completed

Cylinder #1 155

Cylinder #3 130

Cylinder #2 155

Cylinder #4 145

 

I'm gonna take that to mean it's not a valve problem.

 

 

That could actually be a valve seeping a bit........worse when warmed up.....popping through intake.......sounds like an intake valve.

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22162AA040 Cap

22157AA051 Rotor

 

Could these be it?

 

Not for a carbed 86.

What is your disty # ?

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I'll throw in that sales people hand me the wrong cap and rotor for subarus a majority of the time.  The 4x4 and FW cap are slightly different in the orientation of the plugs, so your timing would be off if you put the wrong cap on...  My $.02

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Not for a carbed 86.

What is your disty # ?

Yeah, I went back after I posted that and found FI in the description.

Part # is 22100aa121 on my disty

 

Here's a new video I shot. Quality is head & shoulders above the other vid, partially due to the new y-pipe installed.

 

Edited by Trident

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Sounds like the same cylinder every time. Try starting it with the #3 plug wire disconnected and grounded. If the popping goes away or decreases, i would say it is an intake valve issue. I don't know the engine, but if it has adjustable clearance, i would say the valve may not be closing all the way. 

Edited by WyoSoobie

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Yeah, I went back after I posted that and found FI in the description.

Part # is 22100aa121 on my disty

 

For 22100aa121

 

Rotor 49101 7021

Cap   49100 7001

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Thanks naru for the part #s !!

 

So, while removing plug wires while running the popping completely goes away when #4 is disconnected. Pop the valve cover off and have a look?

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That pretty much confirms a leaky intake valve,

Won`t be much to see under the valve cover.

 

You could put shop air on #4 at TDC and listen for heavy hissing at the intake for confirmation.

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If that engine is OHC,you could pop the valve cover with the engine off, turn the engine with a socket until the #4 exhaust valve is beginning to open and check for slack in the intake cam follower. If the follower is tight,then the valve is not seating.

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That pretty much confirms a leaky intake valve,

Won`t be much to see under the valve cover.

 

You could put shop air on #4 at TDC and listen for heavy hissing at the intake for confirmation.

well I'm still gonna have to take it off to remove the head and have it fixed, correct? I should've just taken the heads in and had them redone when I resealed the motor. I just cleaned them & resurfaced them with sandpaper using the "post apocalyptic" thread as a guide. :banghead:

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... I just cleaned them & resurfaced them with sandpaper using the "post apocalyptic" thread as a guide. :banghead:

 

Very Kindly let me tell you that I've read so many Horror Stories, related to that "Post Apocalyptic Resurfacing Procedures" Thread, that I really, Really dismissed the idea of doing such thing manually on any engine's Head(s).

 

Seems like your engine could be one more victim of such info on that thread.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Well, I've pulled my driver's side valve cover off and what do ya know...#4 rocker is laying in the bottom of the valve cover. How to proceed? Rotate the motor til I get enough space to slide it back in? Hopefully this is possible with everything as it is presently.

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Very Kindly let me tell you that I've read so many Horror Stories, related to that "Post Apocalyptic Resurfacing Procedures" Thread, that I really, Really dismissed the idea of doing such thing manually on any engine's Head(s).

 

Seems like your engine could be one more victim of such info on that thread.

 

Kind Regards.

I have never heard of this.  When I did it, it worked perfectly.  What kind of things have happened?

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I have never heard of this.  When I did it, it worked perfectly.  What kind of things have happened?

 

Dear Ferox,

 

The information regarding this subject, was told to me in a series of Private Messages @ Facebook, by a great friend in USA which also is USMB member, and I promised him to keep the story between us. So I can not reveal details nor names in this mere case.  Sorry.

 

Also sorry for the involuntary thread hijack.

 

Kind Regards.

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Well, I've pulled my driver's side valve cover off and what do ya know...#4 rocker is laying in the bottom of the valve cover. How to proceed? Rotate the motor til I get enough space to slide it back in? Hopefully this is possible with everything as it is presently.

What a relief it's only that... I think you'll still have to pull the cam tower but at least you're not looking at another head gasket job. I'll tell you what, I hear about people doing the headgaskets in the car and they never mention how terribly difficult it is to get those stupid rockers to stay in place while they put the cam tower on. It's like they conveniently forget... or want to make working on Subarus seem even easier than it is so people are less intimidated to work on them. When that happens they dig into it and it's way more difficult than they thought and before you know it they're selling it. AND GUESS WHO'S BUYING IT. IT'S A CONSPIRACY!!!!!  Anyway... yeah.

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