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Anything I need to look for when I go to look at this? 2003 Outback


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Saw this Outback on CL and decided to go take a look at it in a couple days. Figured I would ask you guys what you thought I should be on the lookout for and what questions to ask. I own a 1993 Loyale atm, and wanted something a little newer and nicer for long trips.

 

Any warning signs? Anything to ask about specifically? Any helpful hints on these cars?

 

Thanks in advance,

Lewis.

 

P.S.

 

Link, 

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/4374783350.html

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Ask if the Head Gaskets have been done and check them for external coolant and oil leaks.  

 

They start small and just grow over time.  You may have to have a shop do this as it's hard to see.  The bottom plastic air dam may be on and then you can't see them at all.  

 

Worth doing or having done.

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+1  for HG's leaks.

 

Also check to see if there is a fuse in the FWD spot near the front right strut.  It should light a light if so but you never know.  Then drive in circles to see if you can feel any torque bind.

 

Maybe minor but at this mileage, the struts may be bad, and the CV boots may be torn.  There are 4 cv boots on the front axles.

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Check that sunroof.

 

First be sure that the front one swings up from the rear, and then that the rear sunroof slides back. Obviously, the reverse is true when closing them.

 

Check the headliner at the front overhead map lights for water stains. (This generation had some cars with a minor front water leak into the map lights up front, that would lightly drip on you when cornering. Not a big deal to fix, and you can do it yourself without special tools.)

 

Check the headliner at the rear of the car in the cargio area for water stains. Then lift the rear cargo floor, remove the black foam tray over the spare tire to see if water is in the tire well. (Water here or headliner stains means the sunroof rain channels are full of dirt and the drains need to be unplugged, or the roof drain tubes have split. This is a more involved fix, but again any backyard mechanic can repair it, but its a $500 dealership repair due to labour.)

 

Personally, I have done both repairs on an 04 OBW LTD that I owned, but that was 2 OBW LTD's ago.

 

If you hear rattles from the rear of the car, check the overhead shoulderbelt storage  for the middle rear passenger, located in the headliner just inside of the tailgate opening. If not correctly inserted into the headliner compartment, the belt fastener will rattle, and from the front seats you can't tell where the sound is coming from exactly. Good Luck on your purchase!

Edited by gbhrps
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When you say check for a fuse, does there need to be one in it? or not in it. Sorry if I am misunderstanding.

+1  for HG's leaks.

 

Also check to see if there is a fuse in the FWD spot near the front right strut.  It should light a light if so but you never know.  Then drive in circles to see if you can feel any torque bind.

 

Maybe minor but at this mileage, the struts may be bad, and the CV boots may be torn.  There are 4 cv boots on the front axles.

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So, check the oil pressure while hot and at idle, it should be a minimum of 10psi.   Headgasket check, got that.   As for rear DS head seam, please explain.

Oil pressure check min 10 psi hot at idle and HG check for leaks rear DS head seam

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"Is it worth getting?"  That's entirely up to you!  Anything can be fixed--but at what cost?

 

If the head gaskets are leaking they can be replaced.  Do it yourself for the cost of gaskets and some machine shop work.  Or take it to a mechanic and it could cost $1500.

 

If there's a fuse in the FWD holder it may be masking "torque bind."  That means you'd have to repair or replace the clutches in the tranny's rear extension housing (you can drop the unit from under the car--no need to pull the tranny.)  Could be quite expensive if you have a mechanic do it using new parts.  Not too bad if you DIY with parts from a P n' P.

 

By the way, to check for torque bind take the car to an open area, like an empty parking lot.  Remove the "FWD" fuse, crank the steering wheel all the way to one side, put the car in gear and let it idle itself around a circle.  If you get bucking and hopping, that's torque bind! 

 

One upside--if you do find problems and are willing to tackle them, you can use that as a bargaining chip to lower the car's purchase price!

 

Good luck!

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Turns out the guy that had this car sold it out from under me on the day I got off work early to go look at it, I was about to leave and he txted me. Such is life I guess, maybe it wasn't meant to be? So continues the search!

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