Sandrion

Update on this issue. The H6 is loaded up and headed to the repair shop to be fixed after all this time. All OEM parts ordered. Updates will continue.

I have never had an issue with my EA82 overheating. I see that its a common problem.

Yeah, it definitely has the interlok. I suppose I could bypass it, but figured I would ask and see if it was easily fixed without changing anything from stock.

Title says it all. The relay that is controlled off of the brake pedal, doesn't actuate anymore. Therefore I have to press the shift-lock button every time I need to go from Park to drive or reverse, etc etc. Is there a switch that controls that relay that is tied to the brake pedal? Is this a common issue? Thanks in advance for the advice.

So, all this being said, how would I install the clutch pedal? Would it bolt right in/up?

So, all this being said, how would I install the clutch pedal? Would it bolt right in/up?

So to be clear, my car is a 1993, Loyale sedan front wheel drive 3 speed auto. I'm going to assume that when you say hydraulic you are meaning it has a modulator valve on the side that works off the intake, which mine does. I am wanting to switch my car from the auto trans to a 5 speed manual, while keeping the front wheel drive. Not looking to make it a 4wd car.

So.im guessing that the fwd only 5 speeds are hard to find?

Not looking to make it a 4wd car. Just wondering if it's possible to make it a fwd 5spd.

Is it possible to put a 5spd trans in a front wheel drive car that has the 3 spd auto?

Hey guys, any thoughts on this issue? A bad ground somewhere? A switch? Anything is helpful (my friends car, I might be helping to fix it). Thanks again!

I am going to drain the coolant, replace the thermostat (with an OEM subaru thermo) and replace the cap with a OEM subaru cap, then refill with Subaru coolant and see if I continue to have the problem. If I do, I guess I will have to bite the bullet and get the headgaskets done. *Sigh* and the reason I bought the H6 was to avoid this issue!

I wasn't saying that an additive would fix it. Also my car only has 97,000 miles. I was asking about things that I could do to maybe fix the problem in case it wasn't a head gasket issue.

I have used the search function and while there are tons of material on the DOHC and SOHC 4 bangers, there isn't a lot on the H6 engine. Now for my problem. I drove my 2002 H6 two hours at 60mph+ the other weekend, without stopping. When I arrived at my destination, I smelled coolant very faintly. Popped the hood and had a small bit of seepage from the top of the overflow tank, and the overflow was very full. It never overheated and never gave any sign other than the small amount of seepage. Drove back home later that day and parked it, (I have another car for work). Today I cranked it up and let it run and warm up to see what would happen. While the coolant level had dropped a little , it was still way above the full mark on the overflow. I also noticed an occasional bubble coming from the overflow hose. ( I made sure it was the overflow hose.) I know this usually means a blown (not leaking) head gasket. I also know this is mega uncommon on the h6 and is there anything I can do other than a hg job that might be the problem. I do all my own mechanic work, since that's what I do for a living so money is not an issue. Other than the money for a HG job, which is what I am trying to avoid. If anyone has any ideas, let me know. Also, as a side note. Does the Subaru coolant additive work for blown as well as leaking head gaskets? It seems like it wouldn't. Just wondering. Also, what kind of coolant would be best. I'm not looking to get out cheap so if I have to buy Subaru brand coolant I will. I'm really not wanting to do the head gaskets on this car as I just bought it a month ago( wasn't doing this at the time) and would prefer not to spend $3000 more dollars. The car has 97,000 original miles.

Just wondering, what's "the squeeky hole"...

As the title says, looking to buy a 2002 Outback Sedan H6. Has 96,000 miles and no dents dings or otherwise. Virtually no underbody rust. $6,400 is the out-the-door price. I looked over the whole car and couldn't find anything wrong. Anything I might have missed on my once-over?

I used some 3M outdoor super adhesive, super thick double sided tape to stick all my door trim back on, as all my trim had gotten brittle on the inside where the clip attached and broken off. Now it looks great, and no rattle!!!

I have a spring compressor. And I got in touch with Primitive and got him to quote me a set of rear springs. I think that is the route I am going. I will have to wait a week or two before buying them, I just bought a set of 4 Subaru 13" alloys from a guy here on the boards. Time to replace the stock steel wheels and plastic hubcaps!

Any insight into which springs exactly I should be bird-dogging down? Or which ones to buy off that website? This thing needs as butt-lift!

Thanks for all the insight guys, I have no problem tearing into anything, its what i do for a living. This should be fun!

I replaced both front and back struts on this car about 1,000 miles ago, and I made sure to get the FWD versions, they helped the saggy butt a little, but I still think it needs new/stiffer springs in the back because of how much it sags. To be clear, the car has FWD struts, NOT 4wd. My parts house just couldn't get new "Springs" for me. Which is what I am searching for.

Which set of springs would I want to get from that website, it isnt very clear on what all models they fit.

It has new struts, but I my parts house didn't list that they had or could get coilovers.

I've got an oil leak on my '93 Loyale. 3spd, auto, 2wd sedan. EA82 motor, 93,000 miles. It seems like it is leaking from behind the timing belt covers? Any insight into what this could be?

My Loyale has a really saggy rearend, and I wondered if there were replacement rear coilovers for this car, or spacer pucks? Antything to get the rear lifted up a little. The car is a 1993 Loyale, 2wd 3spd auto sedan.