Sandrion

When you say check for a fuse, does there need to be one in it? or not in it. Sorry if I am misunderstanding.

Saw this Outback on CL and decided to go take a look at it in a couple days. Figured I would ask you guys what you thought I should be on the lookout for and what questions to ask. I own a 1993 Loyale atm, and wanted something a little newer and nicer for long trips. Any warning signs? Anything to ask about specifically? Any helpful hints on these cars? Thanks in advance, Lewis. P.S. Link, http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/4374783350.html

Jim, pm me. And I am in Grover, North Carolina. 28073

I have a 1993 Loyale, FWD, sedan, three speed EA-82. Im looking for a passenger side power mirror, or just the glass for that side. My glass company here in town cant seem to find the correct replacement glass... I also need the power steering reservoir cap, and the pulleys for the power steering pump, OR a whole pump, reservoir, cap, and pulleys. the whole shebang. Also, does anyone know where to buy the trim that goes above the doors down the side of the car? or is that made of unobtainium like everything else on this car!

When you say messed with the tie rods. Does taking it loose from the CV axle knuckle and leaving it attached to the rod itself count?

My local parts house is a wholesaler, and I also get a discount through work, and me and sealed/pregreased bearings dont jive. Not saying they do not work, but I want something I can grease myself. Thank you Ivan for the part numbers, that helped immensely with the seals. I already had the bearings. The soob is now back together, with new front and rear struts, new cv axles, new bearings and seals in the front and also new bearings and seals in the back.. I think I should be good for a while. Question, do you have to realign after putting new struts on front? It looked to me that it only had one adjustment point way down on the arm, and the strut was eccentric, but I clocked it into the same position.

So i got the two seals Ivan mentioned. Are both the outer and inner seals double lip style? because the ones I have are.

I just need the number off the seal on the outer seal, and the inner seal. I can get my parts guy to cross them if needed. I need the parts before I tear it apart, as I need to drive the car until I get ready to fix it.

I need to know the part numbers for the inner and outer seals for where the axle comes through on a Loyale FWD. I have the bearings and I think one of the seals, but I need to know for sure I have the right stuff before I tear into it, since it is my daily driver.

Just wanted to update you guys and say that the part I got from Bratman worked perfectly, and he was an awesome guy to deal with. I got the arm put on, and also decided to do my rear struts (they were worn out) while I was back there, and that was super easy! Didn't even need a spring compressor. The soob is back up and running like a champ now. Thanks everyone for the help, and a special thanks to Bratman for doing all that he did for me!!!

I have a 1993 Subaru Loyale Front wheel drive. The rear spindle had a bearing failure and I had to cut it off, in the process the spindle itself was ruined. I now need the whole arm that the spindle is pressed into. this arm is also the bottom mount for the strut and it has a flat plate connecting it to the frame, as well as what looks like the main mounting location which is the frame. To me it is shaped like a hockey stick turned sideways with a spindle stuck through it. I have been told that it is a trailing arm, a locating arm, a lower control arm, as well as a strut arm... Please help me! I need to know what this part is called and where I can buy one, I desperately need this part to get the Soob back on the road..

So where is the vacuum modulator that you were talking about, because it isnt leaking out of the body, and the front diff doesnt seem to be fuller than normal.

Hey Northwet, wondered what you would suggest for the tranny, as I do not know its full history, and when I added fuel I had to add 2 qts just to get it to the full line (while it was running). Should I run the conditioner cleaner through it like I was going to, and then change the fluid fully? Clean the debris screen? (Thanks for that info btw). The reason I ask is because I want this thing to last a long time, and to be completely honest, auto trannys scare the crap out of me. I am game to work on anything else though. I am also replacing the front and rear struts, and also the cv axles on each side (fully), wondered if you had any helpful hints or nice info on that. Thanks again, Lewis.

Ok guys, problem solved. Like Ivantruckman mentioned, it was low on fluid, and the angle did cause it to draw air. I added some fluid today and it is now working perfectly.., and I am going to run a little cleaner/conditioner in it for a couple hundred miles, then change the fluid and the filter. Thanks for all the help!

Tried to back out of my friends driveway last night(its a steep driveway) and my Loyale, which has never had this issue before, made a whizzing sound and wouldn't move, I let off the gas a little, the gear "grabbed" again, I started moving backwards, it slips again. I finally coaxed it up the hill, but what could be my problem? I DO NOT want my transmission to be going out, as this is a daily driver, and I honestly don't have a parts car anywhere around, nor do I have the money to buy a brand new tranny, any info in much appreciated.

Just a thought, but when you clean the tank out, put a see through in-line fuel filter BEFORE the pump, I done this and has saved me a lot of heartache, as it catches everything that could possibly get to the pump, and I can slide under the car and check it out anytime I need to. Just go to a parts house and get the biggest see through filter they have. Should only cost three dollars or so.

Changed the plugs, wires disty, and rotor in the Loyale. Dropped the tank, cleaned it out, cleaned out my pump, ran all new fuel lines, installed a see through filter "before" the pump, changed the oil, installed new rear struts, and new front cv axles are on the way.

Just a question, have you looked to see if there is an internal screen inside your fuel pump? The original to the Loyale had a brass screen which could become clogged, before anything gets to the fuel filter. I had to drop the tank in my loyale, as it was full of trash, and after I cleaned it up and cleaned out my pump, and replaced the fuel filter, it nows runs like a top! Since the pump is so easy to get to, if it were me, I would consider pulling it to see if it too has a screen, and if it is clogged, and if so, maybe putting a filter before the pump.

Ok guys, I dropped the tank and done a pretty decent clean up job on it, cleaned out my pump and replaced the fuel filter. Car runs 100% better now. No bucking and bogging, and no dying on me at random times. As for the timing belts, the car only has 70,000 miles, and the belts were replaced before I got the car, along with the master cylinder, water pump, valve cover gasket, and a couple other things. Also, I replaced the door speakers, as they were both shot to hell, and I found a Loyale just like mine, but the wagon model, in a local junkyard, I am considering just buying the whole thing for parts. Anyway, thanks for all the help on the Soob, If I have any more issues, you will see a thread about it!

I have found out that I have trash in my fuel tank, and it is clogging the screen in my fuel pump up, causing my engine to bog, as mentioned above. I am dropping the tank this weekend and cleaning it out, will report back with results.

I have found out that I have trash in my fuel tank, and it is clogging the screen in my fuel pump up, causing my engine to bog, as mentioned above. I am dropping the tank this weekend and cleaning it out, will report back with results.

Definitely going to change the diff oil and the tranny fluid. Those two things, as well as Spark plugs, new rotor, new cap, new wires and plugs, are all part of my "new to me car" beginning maintenance.

Not to sound dumb, but I am ignorant as to what TPS is. I might know if it wasn't in acronym form. And it isnt really jumping, more... just sticking in place, it sometimes doesnt want to go up as the revs do, other times it doesn't want to come down. I can smack the top of the dash and it will move in whatever direction it is supposed to, according on what the revs are doing.

It has been running fine since i.bought it up until a few days ago, since then the bogging has gotten particularly worse as time has gone on. It is a 1993 loyale sedan, 1.8l SPFI fwd three speed. I have replaced the filter, it didnt help. As for the bogging, it started out just when i would go around a curve it would sputter and then clear up, no problem, now it has gotten to where if i stop, and start off again, it all but dies. And actually has once or twice... i mash the gas, a little or a lot, and it picks up, dies, picks up, dies. Its almost like i was shutting off the gas flow each time to the injector. I have not had any check lights come on, and my fuses and fusible links are good. The fuel pump sounds like it is struggling, but when you spend $675 on a car, $200 for a pump is a bit steep. Could it be some kind of valve, sensor, sending unit or otherwise? I have checked all the hoses, they are all in great shape, no cracks.

Hmm, might still be something I would undertake, if only I could find one to swap in. These older Subi's are notoriously hard to find in this part of the country.