I have a 1999 Legacy with a bit too much free play in the front hub bearings.

There is no noise from the bearings, and I was hoping to avoid replacement.

I can't find a cross section drawing of the knuckle/hub/ drive shaft set up which would help.

I know the outer shell of the bearings is one piece, but is there a spacer between the bearing inner cones which could be reduced in size to take up the free play?

no,

if the bearings have slop you should replace them.

I have a 1999 Legacy with a bit too much free play in the front hub bearings.

There is no noise from the bearings, and I was hoping to avoid replacement.

I can't find a cross section drawing of the knuckle/hub/ drive shaft set up which would help.

I know the outer shell of the bearings is one piece, but is there a spacer between the bearing inner cones which could be reduced in size to take up the free play?

 

this might be similar to your model, - but not sure on non-US models; http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_39/suspension_and_axle/front_axle/illustration_1/

Are you sure the play is in the bearing? These typically don't have play without making a LOT of noise.

The axle nut holds the inner races of the bearing together. If that is loose there would be play in the bearing. Axle nut should be torqued to 140 ft lbs. If the axle nut is torqued and there is still play the bearing should be replaced.

Taper roller bearings can wear without needing to be replaced, unlike ball races. Most UK cars in the 60's and 70's had

adjustable front wheel bearings., just a castle nut and split pin to hold it all together .We used to unscrew the nut , re-grease the bearings and adjust up again.

My previous Legacy's all needed rear wheel bearings, and as you say, the noise was the first indication of a problem.

I am sure the play is in the bearings, The lower ball joint etc are all OK.

Now I know the correct torque for the nut, i'll check it out

Thanks for all the info

Finally got round to looking at the front bearing play.

As suggested by Fairtax, I unstaked the axle nut, and started to re torque.

The nut moved very slightly after 100 ft lbs.

Result, no more play in the bearings. I have run the car for a week, and it's ok.

Now I need to fit a new nut , as the ring of metal for staking is mangled.

We don't have a Subaru Dealer round here any more, so I was thinking of buying one off the internet with 2 year warranty,

 I read on another forum, that chinese Auto Zone nuts "are not accurate".. I don't think the one i have seen are Autozone anyway, but anybody had bad experience with non genuine nuts?

The aftermarket ones can sometimes have a larger or smaller hex than the stock one. No biggie if you have the proper size socket to fit. But if not, an axle nut socket can cost quite alot more than the new nut.

I did wonder what "not accurate meant".

A drive shaft specialist firm is selling the nuts with 2 year warranty and the correct 32 mm AF size.

Job Done

Thanks for help

Thought it might be of interest, but after re tightening the new axle nut a couple of times, the small amount of "bearing" play returned.

Finally decided to have the hub bearings replaced for safety's sake.

When the mechanic stripped the hub, he found that the wheel hub, where the inner race of the outer bearing sits had worn away.

This was causing the play at the road wheel.

The bearings were ok, which is why there was never any noise associated with the problem. .Obviously new bearings were fitted as the car had 180K miles on the clock.

I just replaced a wheel bearing on a VW that the axle nut had come loose on. The hub was discolored from heat and the surface that sits in the bearing was mangled and worn into an almost cone shape.

The thing was so loose the tire was rubbing against the strut.

Needless to say the hub needed replacement as well.