It starts but not the best, when it idles u can see the crank shaft wobbling a bit, when u give it gas it stops but it sounds like a knock in the crank bearings, also smell of gas when running, tranny is slipping pretty good, and its leaking oil all over the y pipe of the exhaust, (checked the oil, looks about 3 quarts over filled)...is that normal for subaru dipsticks or you think they over filled it? My main question is should I tak3 the time to rebuild or just find an engine to buy, and if so any advice on where to buy one?

dipsticks can be tricky, best to pull, wipe, wait 2 minutes, check, look on both sides, mentally calculate the 'average', maybe repeat.

separator plate might be the source of the oil. search

trans 'might' respond well to 3 drain/fills and a bottle of Trans-X

crank pulley might be separating, or loose - both are known issues.


Don't dump the engine without checking it out better.

Edited June 6, 201411 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

It seems to be definetly over full, im about to do an oil change,( already planned on so) but about the crank pulley seperating or being loose how do I check that? And thank you for your response.

In the past, people have also found trans fluid in the front diff ! - so, you might start by getting ALL the fluids change-out and at the proper level, in case someone didn't know what they were doing with fluid fills. I'm sure you also know to check the trans fluid while idling? Strongly recommend cleaning or replacing the PCV valve too.

 

Compression and leak down testing would be a critical way to determine primary health of the engine.

 

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/27372-harmonic-balancer/?hl=+crank++pulley++separating&do=findComment&comment=222711

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87408-crankpulley-grinding-timeing-cover/?hl=+crank++pulley++separating&do=findComment&comment=734640

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/101045-crank-pulley-came-loose-mangled-keywaybut/page-2?hl=+crank++pulley++separating&do=findComment&comment=1106091

Edited June 6, 201411 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

get a used engine.  those engines are one of Subaru's most reliable engines they've ever built. this means it's easy to find a used one in great shape for cheap that will easily last 100,000+ miles.  there's two best sources:

 

classified section of a forum like this one

www.car-part.com

 

you may wan to first try and do some diagnostics.

 

is the *crank* truly wobbling or is it just the crank pulley? 

it's probably just the crank pulley that's wobbling, replace it with a used one.

with that much visible play it would destroy the crank seals and puke oil everywhere....doesn't sound like it's doing that, so probably just the pulley and the engine is fine.

 

if the oil is overfilled and there's a strong gas smell - then maybe the injectors are dumping too much fuel/leaking.  smells like fuel and gas is getting into the oil and overfilling it over time.  doesn't do good things to the lower end bearings.

 

the knocking sounds bad - could be something else.

I am farmiliar with all fluid exchanging,( been working at jiffy lube 3 years) plus always worked on cars. Its a FWD model. And yeah the knocking is pretty loud when ur listening for it, which is why I wonder if I should just swap the crank pulley and ride it till it dies saving for a rebuilt motor. I was going to do the timing belt and pulleys and seperator plate all at once, but with a knock like that should I just not invest the time and money in it?thank you again guys for your responses

some of the engines have piston slap which is annoying but, just from what I read, doesn't have long-term damage associated. Loose timing belts can make a noise knocking/rubbing the inside of the timing cover sometimes.

 

but yeah, rod knock is different.....

Hypethetically speaking, say it is a crank bearing or two, should I just swap a new harmonic balancer and fluid changes, and just ride till it dies?

maybe record the sound and post a link to the recording - some of the really experienced guys here might be able to ID the sound.

Ok, just did the oil change and there was metal shavings throughout, nothing like holy spoob! Status but enough to be like,, well damn

maybe record the sound and post a link to the recording - some of the really experienced guys here might be able to ID the sound.

I will attempt to do so when im off work later thank u

i was going to suggest a few things which it may be besides lower end knock...but you already verified it with metal shavings.  that block is worthless.

 

like i said earlier, those engines are so robust and easily found, they run forever with few issues so there's zero demand and they're cheap, an expensive rebuilt or something is almost pointless.

 

$150 - $300 should net you one.

 

any 1990-1994 EJ22 will work

1995 - 1998 EJ22 will also work if you swap exhaust manifold and install the 1992 intake manifold onto the engine

Any 1990 - 1996 EJ18 will also work - install your 1992 EJ22 intake manifold right on top the Ej18, install Ej22 knock sensor in the bung, and it's a bolt in-plug and play swap.

 

www.car-part.com

or USMB classifieds

Dude you guys are all amazing help, thank you all, and 300 bucks really? Hell ill start lookin right now

use www.car-part.com to find something local to you, but yeah around $300-400 should get you something decent.

 

dont be too afraid of higher mileage either, as already pointed out, these are pretty tough motors, and 150K is just getting broken in good.

use www.car-part.com to find something local to you, but yeah around $300-400 should get you something decent.

 

dont be too afraid of higher mileage either, as already pointed out, these are pretty tough motors, and 150K is just getting broken in good.

2 years ago, I bought a 95, 2.2 motor for $400, with about 140K miles. I transplanted the 2.2 into my Outback with good results. I got a good motor with no issues. Came with a 30 day guarantee.