i know the coil and distributor are good because i pulled them out of a running car

and still no spark what else can i look for  

Coil bracket w/the transistor mounted on it if not already swapped.

does the dist turn when you crank the engine ? if not then t-belts could be your problem.

ya i did change that at the same time

ya i just did t belt as well 

what else should i look 4?

Power on coil  negative.

Disty wiring.opens,

Make sure the coil bracket is well grounded,

Edited July 3, 201411 yr by naru

check all fuses and links

Like Naru stated, you need to verify power is getting to the plus and minus sides of the coil when the ignition is on. Also verify fuse 5 in the dash panel is good and has power to it.

Like Naru stated, you need to verify power is getting to the plus and minus sides of the coil when the ignition is on. Also verify fuse 5 in the dash panel is good and has power to it.

you say i have to have power to the + and - sides of coil?

so put my multi-meter - to a ground and the + to coil and then do the same for the - side?

i should have power

you say i have to have power to the + and - sides of coil?

so put my multi-meter - to a ground and the + to coil and then do the same for the - side?

i should have power

 

Exactly

you say i have to have power to the + and - sides of coil?

so put my multi-meter - to a ground and the + to coil and then do the same for the - side?

i should have power

Disconnect the plus wire from the coil.

 

Touch the ground with one multi meter lead and another lead toughing the disconnected wire.

 

With the key in the ON or START you have to have battery power there.

 

While you have the coil disconnected you have a chance to check it's continuity using your multi meter set to ohms.

 

 

Good luck,

Sam

Disconnect the plus wire from the coil.

 

Touch the ground with one multi meter lead and another lead toughing the disconnected wire.

 

With the key in the ON or START you have to have battery power there.

 

While you have the coil disconnected you have a chance to check it's continuity using your multi meter set to ohms.

 

 

Good luck,

Sam

 

No need to disconnect anything.

Power on coil negative proves coil continuity.

No need to disconnect anything.

Power on coil negative proves coil continuity.

I agree and this even eliminates the need to check the continuity but battery voltage on the plus wire will give you information that at least at this point there is no problems here.

 

Regards,

sam

I agree and this even eliminates the need to check the continuity but battery voltage on the plus wire will give you information that at least at this point there is no problems here.

 

Regards,

sam

I still would compare the ohm reading to the known good coil.

 

Sam

Unless the coil is open or the wiring on the minus side of the coil has a short to ground on it you should se voltage on both sides of the coil using ground as reference. If the minus side wiring is shorted to ground the coil body should get hot if the ignition has been left on for a while.

so i just got back to working on this thing and still have no spark i did as you said to test the power to the coil and it has power + and ~ sides but it reads 7 volts that is not right RIGHT?

i did notice i have No breaking right on the ecu at all is the ecu at bad?

I recall power eadings on the coil of my Series 1 EA82 T mpfi coil which is a bit different to yours but, the readings were positive power both sides of about 12V with IGN ON, not while running.

 

Your last statement needs rewriting with maybe some punctuation or more words for me to understand what you asking pics say a 1000 words sometimes.....

what about the ecu is it good if there is no blinking light what so ever thanks

what about the ecu is it good if there is no blinking light what so ever thanks

someone might be able to say whether you need to interrogate the ECU first, by way of the procedure of whatever it is with those green diagnostic connectors connected. Or maybe if the dash check engine light flashes or lights up - maybe the ECU is ready to give code for any error.

Usually if there is no blink LED means all is OK WITH THE COMPONENTS ECU TALKS TO, but surely no blink LED is sure sign ECU is healthy the blinkng LED circuit might have stopped working too !

it is acting like there is no power to the ECU the  check engine light

dont even come on with key in the on position the bulb is good 

i did put an ECU out of an 88 gl that i no is good in the 92

got that ECU to bleak but car would not start 

put the 92 ECU in the 88 it bleaked  but no start  

this car has me stumped 

so i just got back to working on this thing and still have no spark i did as you said to test the power to the coil and it has power + and ~ sides but it reads 7 volts that is not right RIGHT?

i did notice i have No breaking right on the ecu at all is the ecu at bad?

ya let me ree-right this one

the other guys that i was talking to sad to check the power to the coil i

did what they sad to do and i only get 7 volts with the + side un hooked 

key on i Touch the ground with one multi meter lead and

another lead toughing the disconnected wire and only get 7 volts 

So does anyone else have any Ideas?

This thing has me stumped

No power to ecu.

 

CEL and and LED should be on with Key on/Eng off

 

Check fuses and fusible links.

 

Check ground bolt on the intake manifold.