It's like pulling teeth trying to get info from him.. I tried to get him to send me a picture but all I know is he said the wire for the alternator output split near the part that gets screwed down.. so he is looking to get a replacement cable from the dealer but I can't see to find a part number for the cable?

It's part of the wiring harness.  It connects to the engine compartment fuse box.  

 

1) if the wire is long enough crimp on a new end and be done with it.  Don't use a cheap crimp, get a good one and a quality crimper

2) hit the junk yard and remove a good one

So you are saying it's a pain to get to and change it? I'm not out at my car right now to look.

Odds are the dealer will not even have it in stock if they can even get it, and usually with pieces for a wiring harness they will only sell you the whole harness.  The quickest and easiest way to fix it would be to just get a piece of wire of the same gauge and crimp a connector on the end.  Then cut and crimp it to the old wire back where there is good wire and before the so called split. 

The yard has a outback but the question is is it really involved in replacing the harness part for the alternator? I would crimp it but where would I find the connectors and what tool would do a good job of crimping?

If you don't have a crimping tool but do have a soldering iron or gun you could use the one from the junk yard, solder it and then heat shrink the connection.  If you don't have a soldering iron or gun you really should if you do work on vehicles.  Also use rosin core solder for electrical and electronics and not the acid type for plumbing.  In a pinch you could even use a large electrical connector called a wing nut.   

I have all that but I use my soldering iron for smaller electronic stuff so my highest wattage is 40w he told me the rubber cover was burned.. I don't have a crimper.

You really don't need the rubber cover, all that is for is so that you don't short it out while working on something else.  A 40w one would work but it would take a while to heat up the wires. 

don't forget to pull the neg terminal off the battery before any work,

 

It's just too easy to be 'casual' and forget about that 600A battery under the hood!

Edited July 6, 201411 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

I suggest you try to find a service shop that specializes in electrical repairs. They should have the parts you really need to fix this. You can't use a normal wire crimper tool for this or connectors. You are going to need something for 8 or 6 gauge wire most likely. If the remaining end of the wire is long enough a new terminal could be crimped on it, otherwise you will have to splice a small section onto the end with a new terminal on it. You should also try to find another boot to go over the stud connection. It leaves the hot connection exposed without it. If a ground comes into contact with that it's good by fuse. Make sure the connection to the alternator is clean an snug tight, not over tightened.  

He went ahead anyways and ordered a new cable from the dealer.

 

not sure how much it costs but it's going to take a few days.

Forgot to post pictures but he ended up getting the wrong part from the dealer he got the battery cables to starter and ground.. I still don't see a part for it and he looks like he might have to crimp it.

Let's see if this works

Edited July 14, 201411 yr by 1-3-2-4

Ended up going to a yard and cutting

Question the nut that screws on is very tight he already picked up a reman alt and I wonder if I should use it?

Reman alt is gonna be trouble unless it came from Subaru.

If the threads on the post are OK clean any corrosion off with a wire brush and use a new 10mm nut. Apply some di-electric grease or anti-seize lightly to the threads to prevent rust.

Reman alt is gonna be trouble unless it came from Subaru.

If the threads on the post are OK clean any corrosion off with a wire brush and use a new 10mm nut. Apply some di-electric grease or anti-seize lightly to the threads to prevent rust.

Yeah I know trying to keep the alternator

 

This site sucks on mobile can't upload the pics but heavy oxidation on the first 3 inches of the cable along with a burning smell.

Edited July 14, 201411 yr by 1-3-2-4

Wow I tested the old alt and it was putting out 30vac

Ok it was a cheap autozone meter and I checked on my better one and it's fine.