I put the engine in Uno and didn't tighten the crank bolt to torque. Though it runs, I know this is just waiting to fall off at an inopportune moment. Does anyone have a clever way to stop the crank from moving while torquing this? I know I can put it into gear but it still has some play. I guess I am interested in something like the Subaru wheel stopper tool that holds the flywheel solid. Thought to build one myself actually because I hate to buy one time use tools like that.

 

Any ideas to stop the flywheel while tightening the crank bolt?  Should I also add some thread locker or will that make future removal too had?

Edited August 1, 201411 yr by MR_Loyale

I've been wondering about this one myself, while waiting for my replacement crank pulley to arrive.  

 

Can you put a screw driver or of the like in flywheel through one of the holes?

 

Or can one use a old/slightly used belt to wrap around the pulley clamp some vice grips on to hold it solid?  

This is one idea that been bouncing around in my head, so I don't know for sure how effective it will be.

I've been wondering about this one myself, while waiting for my replacement crank pulley to arrive.  

 

Can you put a screw driver or of the like in flywheel through one of the holes?

 

Or can one use a old/slightly used belt to wrap around the pulley clamp some vice grips on to hold it solid?  

This is one idea that been bouncing around in my head, so I don't know for sure how effective it will be.

 

Yeah I thought about the screwdriver in the flywheel hole but I think it would mar the bell housing. I think it would work if you don't mind a divet in the bell housing.

I've had good luck putting a screwdriver through one of the side holes.

Tool i made 

Honestly, I've never had problems reaching 100+ ft/lbs by just putting the car in 5th gear with the parking brake set firmly.. EA or EJ. I think the pulley on my wrx is close to 140ftlbs.

I've used the rope-in-cylinder method many times with great success.  Many people will freak-out saying this is a bad idea, and it certainly can be, if done poorly.  The three main things to make absolutely sure about is the the cylinder you choose is on the compression stroke, use high quality supple climbing rope or cotton rope (the thicker the better), and feed as much of the rope into the cylinder to make sure the cylinder is stopped low-enough (but not so low that any of the valves are open) in the stroke that it doesn't bind the rope at the top of the stroke.

 

I have a dedicated piece of rope for this that is essentially the same size as the spark-plug hole.  Do not use cheap, coarse nylon rope, or stiff rope of any kind.  Since you have your engine mated to the transmission, I would use the gears and chock your wheels first before using this method.  I usually only use this technique for engines that are not installed.  Like I said before, I have had people flip-out when I told them I use this method, but I have done more times than I can remember and have never had a problem; however, I am very careful every time I do it.  It has it's risks, but if done properly it works great.

+1 for 5th gear and parking brake. There's a little play in it....but it works.

I throw a box wrench on one of the bolts on the flywheel, slowly rotate the engine until the wrench is up against the view hole edge and then lay on the torque. I'm sure I got way past 100 ft/lbs on the crank bolt.