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2 inch lift & 6 lug swap


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The lift is pretty straightforward. You'll want to make sure to spin the strut tops on the rear 180 degrees then install the lift blocks.

 

Not sure if this is obvious or not, but dropping the crossmember first will make it easier to get the front struts back into the steering knuckle once they're installed. You'll want to get the front strut blocks attached to the strut, then bolt the struts back in, then work the knuckle onto the strut. Should be very doable with two people.

 

As far as the steering coupler goes, it's much safer to grab the steering linkage off a first gen legacy from a scrap yard. I thought about extending and welding mine, but didn't trust my welding skills.

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I'm sure with the help of a friend and some extra tools I can do the lift I've been explained how to do it by a few people as well as Patrick who sold me a lift actually made a write up for it. As far as the legacy linkage I heard the spline count is different and I'm not sure it will work.

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That is incorrect. Spline count is exactly the same as the EA82 body style. If it wasn't, I wouldn't have a legacy coupler on my 87 GL...

 

The only differences I am aware of on the EA82 itself is that the steering linkage for a car with power steering is different from a car with a manual rack. Spline count is the same, the difference is length/number of u-joints.

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Any legacy 90-94, first gen. Wagon or sedan will work just fine AFAIK. I used outback spacers on my crossmember which are 1 1/4". The difference is negligible, that coupler will work. My car has power steering too. I loosened the existing coupler and then did my xmember drop just to see if it would work, no cigar.

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The main stuff wasn't too much. The lift was $270 from Patrick Anderson (prwa101) and the hubs were drilled when I bought them which I paid $100 for. I put a link below to Patrick's lifts if you are interested in one!

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148582-anderson-design-fabrication/?do=findComment&comment=1246141

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