Mines having a hard time starting but always does.. I'm showing 8-9 volts with key in ignition right before it starts and 12 when it runs. Wondering if I need a new battery?

Define hard to start. Turning over real slow?

 

Anyway, the voltage reading before the car is running is fine. sitting at 12v while running is not. Should be just under 14v while running.

You have to use a multimeter to test at the battery. The dash meter isnt all that accurate.

Ok I'll try a volt meter, what reading should I be seeing?

 

It's not slow when turing over, sounds normal..

Should be above 12V with everything off just sitting there. Close to 14v when running, maybe less if you have alot of acessories on.

 

Lower than 12v is ok with key on and engine not running.

 

Generally they test a battery with a load test. Put a known load on it and see how that battery responds. It may still be bad but is showing appropriate voltage readings.

Edited November 6, 201411 yr by stratman977

Here's a video on how you can test your battery

 

Battery seems good, showing 12.78 volts...

 

I made a video to show what it's like to start..

 

 

So......to start a carberated car when cold.......you should not be "giving it gas"..

 

The proceedure is to derpess the pedal fully once (this sets the choke on it's cam).....then crank...

 

You may have a choke issue....perhaps it needs adjusted?

 

Also, it sounds to me like for some reason your fuel pump is not running until the car is started.  You can here it after the car starts...but not before.

 

Has the FPCU been messed with?  Perhaps the voltage to it is dropping away while cranking?

I'm under the assumption that on a carb vehicle you shouldn't be able to hear the fuel pump at all

You don't have a battery problem, you have a fuel problem.  The crank, no-start situation is likely due to a dirty fuel filter, carburetor or faulty fuel pump.  I think you'll need to do some more investigating.

 

Also, look at your plugs and air filter while your in there checking things.  This could all point to  the need for a good tune up.

I'm under the assumption that on a carb vehicle you shouldn't be able to hear the fuel pump at all

 

It's not the whine of an FI pump....

 

It's a rythmic Tap-Tap-Tap of the diaphragm pump....you can hear it in his video sounds just the same as my Brat.

 

 

If the FPCU hasn't been messed with and is working correct....I would suspect choke out of adjustment and possibly clogged jets/emulsions in the carb.

Also....just a thought......the FPCU won't power the fuel pump or the anti-diesel solenoid on the carb until it sees a tach pulse.

 

I notice in the video your Tach doesn't move at all until when the engine starts.  Almost like the Coil is not firing at first.

 

could it be that the wiring to the coil has been altered?  where does the coil get it's power......If it's been rerouted off of the Fuel pump power......that would make a Chicken/Egg situation where the coil doesn't see volts til the fuel pump does and the Fuel pump won't get volts until the coil fires.....IDK.....

 

try starting it with a jumper wire straight from coil to Batt.....see if the Tach moves right off when cranking.

 

Something simple for sure.

Fuel filter is new, air filter is clean.

 

Iv been told the fuel pump either works or it doesn't.

 

Is the that tapping noise the fuel pump? How do I fix that noise?

 

I have a weber carb installed if that helps the diagnosis.

 

I'm away for the weekend but I can take pics of the coil wiring when I get back Monday!

 

I really appreciate the intelligence on this thread gents. Thank you.

i had a similar issue with batteries, they needed a good charging overnight and that fixed the problem, you know how old subies are with low amps on the alternator, with short trip stop starts and accessories running, the alternator can't keep a good crarge on the battery.

 

 

Is the that tapping noise the fuel pump? How do I fix that noise?

 

 

yes.  you don't....thats the sound they make....Seems like brats you can here it more than wagons.

 

So......to start a carberated car when cold.......you should not be "giving it gas"..

 

The proceedure is to derpess the pedal fully once (this sets the choke on it's cam).....then crank...

 

 

To add to this.......If it fails to start after first try, give the accelrator 2 pumps....then try again.....each time with your foot off the pedal while cranking.....this keeps the choke activated(closed)....if you are giving it gas you can actually be opening the choke.

It has a weber? What is your timing set at? I had mine at 20* but then it started flooding out on me real easy so i backed it off a little

Got some pics here of my engine... Everything look ok?

 

 

I'm wondering if it's my ballast resistor.. Does anyone know where it's located on a 86 brat?

I'm wondering if it's my ballast resistor.. Does anyone know where it's located on a 86 brat?

 

 

86 brat does not have one.

That's why I can't find it! Lol...


Okay so I've tried everything tried boosting, tried popping the clutch, tried dumping fuel in the carb, banged in the ignition coil with a hammer, not too hard, checked fuses.. no go..

it's turning over but no ignition much like the video i made but not starting. .... any thoughts guys?

Edited November 13, 201411 yr by ragingbull

I really am thinking it's just flooded. Do you smell gas under the hood? Let it sit for a day and then try and start it without touching the gas at all.

 

Another thing you can do, try starting it with the choke held open with a screwdriver or something. Whatever you use just don't let it fall in.

OK Ill give it a shot tomorrow.. I tried holding the choke open, no dice...

Im thiinking ignition coil... I used a volt meter on the + and - on it and I got nothing with the car turned on...

 

Is this ignition coil specific to the brat or can I get a universal one?

If you can, have somebody squirt just a little shot of starting fluid in the carb while it's turning over. Just a little

Im thiinking ignition coil... I used a volt meter on the + and - on it and I got nothing with the car turned on...

 

Is this ignition coil specific to the brat or can I get a universal one?

 

If you've got no power to the coil that is the problem.

 

If you had power to it but no spark, then you could suspect the coil.....as it is now I would not suspect the coil.  It's probably fine.....suby coils almost never fail.

 

I supect the Black/White wire that feeds power to the coil......if it doesn't have power with key on, then you need to figure out why.