Hi everyone!!  I just signed up for this forum and I am beyond excited guy right now!!  Yesterday afternoon I picked up a rust free, 1985 Subaru DL Wagon.  The car was born and raised in New Mexico.  I have never seen such a clean frame on a car, especially a Subaru!  I picked her up for $1600.  Motor runs great at idle but kicks and bucks like a horse after that.  I think the carb is shot and needs rebuilt.  Thus far I am getting 15 mpg!!  Something is definitely off on this carb...or it's shot.  I know jack about carbs so it's quite a learning curve for me!

 

Due to the car being in New Mexico, all of the emissions devices were unplugged and all the hoses are gone.  Would this cause the car to act nuts when trying to give her gas???      I'm also presuming I have an Hitachi carb from what I have researched but maybe someone can tell me for sure if this is true?  If so, where can I get a good rebuild kit at?  Well enough about the bragging, ill let the pictures and video below do the rest of the talking, then we can all chat from there

 

PS:  This is my first carb'd Subi.  I owned an 87 Loyale Sedan when I was 16 (my first car) and then drove around an '89 Loyale for a bit in my early 20's.  BUT back in those days I didn't give a hoot about the car except it ran.  I never researched or learned about what's under the hood.  Now at 33, I am pretty mechanically inclined and had to buy this car.  She needs carb work and I have a small clicking in the rear under 15mph.  I am assuming it's an axle?  Oddly when I put the car in 4wd the clicking goes away.  Also when in 2wd, the clicking goes away past 15mph.  

 

 

A Little Dark (Sorry)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Carburetor:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Video Walk-around (Long winded, sorry)

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cT28yeRvA-M

 

Can't wait to chat with everyone.  I am like a 5 year old kid on Christmas day! 

What a great car, and with only such minor issues! A "Gem" indeed! Congratulations    I deal mostly with FI these days with the exception of an old Holley. Someone else will come along PDQ and help you sort out the carb issues. Enjoy! Lots to look at and see here.

Edited November 9, 201411 yr by Crazyeights

could be any number of things, so start from the beginning and do it justice and save us from the usual asks until you have don it, then tell what you have done if probs still there. Sound harsh I know, but you are 33 right!

 

If it was mine I would be degreasing engine first, blow away any filth from spark plug holes, remove plugs and do comp test and post up results.

 

Then would likely unnneccesarily spend on new plugs, leads cap and rotor, run some fuel cleaner then change fuel filter after a tankful used.

 

If it runs with air filter box off I would observe down throat to see how fuel sprays from accelerator pump plunger. You want to see it blast against the inside venturi thing, not dribble. You don't want any air leaks from carby gaskets or inlet man gaskets either.

 

I would also look inside the coil tower to ensure no corrosion and crap in there- bad for spark making

could be any number of things, so start from the beginning and do it justice and save us from the usual asks until you have don it, then tell what you have done if probs still there. Sound harsh I know, but you are 33 right!

 

If it was mine I would be degreasing engine first, blow away any filth from spark plug holes, remove plugs and do comp test and post up results.

 

Then would likely unnneccesarily spend on new plugs, leads cap and rotor, run some fuel cleaner then change fuel filter after a tankful used.

 

If it runs with air filter box off I would observe down throat to see how fuel sprays from accelerator pump plunger. You want to see it blast against the inside venturi thing, not dribble. You don't want any air leaks from carby gaskets or inlet man gaskets either.

 

I would also look inside the coil tower to ensure no corrosion and crap in there- bad for spark making

Unfortunately I don't have the means to compression test but I will perform all of the other suggestions you made.  With that brings other questions.  I'm a total Subi noob with this car.  Pardon my ignorance.  Where exactly is the fuel filter?  Also, where/what site has reputable parts?  I see fuel filters on RockAuto and other various parts.  Are they good to use on this DL?

Here is what I found on RockAuto.

 

Bosch Rotor:

 

http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=278081&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/Bosch/BS_04182_Fro.jpg

 

Dist. Cap:

 

http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=479251&imageurl=http%3A//www.beckcatalog.com/bin/images/Beckarnley/174/BA1746846-1.jpg

 

Fuel Filter:

 

http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=359952&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/WIX/33204.jpg

 

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx/Subaru-1800-1985/_/Ntt-fuel%20filter/Ntk-Keyword/Nty-1/N-599001%20101985%2050068%202068009%204068013%205999999

 

Wire Set:

 

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Spark-Plug-Wire-Set/_/R-NGW9350_0145373164

 

Also from the pictures above, is my carb a Hitachi?  Is that the only model they used on the 1985 DL?  Also does my engine have a timing belt or is it push rod?  

Wow, an 85' with such a nice body that's awesome. I too am 33 years of age and will inform you that your engine does indeed have a timing belt and you should be taking the covers off as soon as you can to inspect the timing belt. Unless the PO changed it. This could also be your problem as the timing might be off. I had an 85' Wagon a couple years ago and put an EJ22 in it and it was a blast because it was such a frankensteined rusty POS that it was basically a sleeper. Great car man and i love that color.

Thanks man. I'm in love with her even though she runs like dog poop now lol. Idles awesome just dies when I'm in gear and push the gas. Bucks around like a wild horse lol.

 

Where exactly is the fuel filter located. I don't see it under the hood like my old Subi...

Will this kit suffice? Says for a gl tho...

 

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/359-01007934.html?utm_content=YN&utm_term=1982-1987+Subaru+GL+Carburetor+Repair+Kit+Royze+82-87+Subaru+Carburetor+Repair+Kit+1983+1985&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=COeNtb3x7sECFQ4SMgodeDAAuA

Damn $77! Before spending that kind of dough buy a good timing light, change fuel filter (just behind/next to drivers side strut tower) and do a basic tune up, ie spark plugs, cap, rotor, NGK Plug wires, i'd be willing to bet money the timing is off.

Ok man I'll def do that. If timing is off that would mean the belt broke? Timing just doesn't go out of whack. All my other cars are interference engines so if it was broke I'd be messing the head up bad!!

The odd part about my under power issue is I dont smell the car becoming flooded even tho I have to mash the gas must to move and stay on the throttle.

Will this kit suffice? Says for a gl tho...

 

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/359-01007934.html?utm_content=YN&utm_term=1982-1987+Subaru+GL+Carburetor+Repair+Kit+Royze+82-87+Subaru+Carburetor+Repair+Kit+1983+1985&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=COeNtb3x7sECFQ4SMgodeDAAuA

That's for a 2nd gen ea81 carb. If a carb kit cost that much i would just buy a weber 32/36 off craigslist since they're a lot simpler. I can get the carb kits for $20-30 at the part store so that price seems ridiculous.

I found kits on rock auto for much cheaper. What should come in a standard kit? Shoukd a new float come with a kit? I'm a total carb noob, laugh if you want

Is the weber 32/36 a direct swap or will I have to mod anything?

Is the weber 32/36 a direct swap or will I have to mod anything?

This should help http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/ . It is a bolt on swap with adapter plate and some new hoses.

Damn $77! Before spending that kind of dough buy a good timing light, change fuel filter (just behind/next to drivers side strut tower) and do a basic tune up, ie spark plugs, cap, rotor, NGK Plug wires, i'd be willing to bet money the timing is off.

I'm going to be honest with you.  I just just out to the car and looked far and wide for the filter in the area you suggested and there is nothing there.  On my old Subaru and my friends, it is in the location that you mentioned but on my DL it is not there....  Little stumped.

Hmm that is weird, EA82s are non interference. The timing is probably off because someone went twisting the distributor trying to get it to idle right, seriously do yourself a favor and buy a timing light or borrow one and see where its running bro.

Hmm that is weird, EA82s are non interference. The timing is probably off because someone went twisting the distributor trying to get it to idle right, seriously do yourself a favor and buy a timing light or borrow one and see where its running bro.

Boy do I have a lot to learn lol.  I've never used a timing gun before, never even seen a carb except on my dad's '69 Cub Cadet hahaha, which still runs like a top by the way  Not being able to locate the fuel filter is wracking my brain also.

Well aside from the filter maybe do the other things first before diving into a carb rebuild, especially an hitachi, i think they are a bear if i remember right. You take the timing gun hook it up to your battery red to pos black to neg and use the leg clamp to go around the plug wire of the #1 cylinder spark plug and then shine the light that is flashing through the site hole near the rear of the motor, there shoule be a hard plastic rubber piece to remove to see the marks on the flywheel. This is probably over your head maybe? Haha if so it is time for lots of reading on your behalf. I'm just saying before you dive into a carb rebuild i'd do the basic tune up first. Maybe even have a shop do a timing check? Where do you live? Maybe a forum member could help?

Wow......

 

So...the air bleeds for the secondary slow and the bowl vent are looped (loop at abck of carb) this is no good effectively closes off that air bleed pulls fuel if anything and the other bleed for main is capped with a Golf T........ no air to secondary emulsions......open them up......capped with a small orifice would be best I think.

 

The Primary slow jet is capped.....so it idles OK cause lots of fuel pulled through the slow emulsion.......Main is open......terribly lean...no vac......cap that with an orifice.

 

I'd also cap the ports on the front of the carb excpet the one goin to the Distributor Vac advance.

Well aside from the filter maybe do the other things first before diving into a carb rebuild, especially an hitachi, i think they are a bear if i remember right. You take the timing gun hook it up to your battery red to pos black to neg and use the leg clamp to go around the plug wire of the #1 cylinder spark plug and then shine the light that is flashing through the site hole near the rear of the motor, there shoule be a hard plastic rubber piece to remove to see the marks on the flywheel. This is probably over your head maybe? Haha if so it is time for lots of reading on your behalf. I'm just saying before you dive into a carb rebuild i'd do the basic tune up first. Maybe even have a shop do a timing check? Where do you live? Maybe a forum member could help?

I agree with you totally Scooner.  I live in NJ mostly and sometimes in PA.  I'm back and forth visiting my g/f and my sick mom in the Williamsport, PA area.  Tomorrow I am going to go buy the basics (plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor)  Then we'll see what happens.  I just drove it a tad tonight cus I am itching to be in the car and she was like a wild bull lol.  I am getting terrible MPG's.  I even ran some 93 through her and put sea foam in, that didn't help at all.  And what you said isn't over my head, I know where the flywheel port is and have seen the timing mark you speak of.  I've just always been lucky in my car repairs to never have to rip the gun out and go that route.  I knew buying the car it had a running issue on throttle but wasn't sure of the extent until I drove it away lol.  Boy was I shocked.  I then had to drive 175 miles from Williamsport to NJ last night and pulling out from a stop is interesting to say the least.  Once I get moving I can maintain speed but have to keep my foot mashed on the gas.  She's definitely under powered at the moment.  I have a close friend who's been a mechanic for 40 years by my parents so after I do the basics and shes still running bad I may have him take a look at her.  He's pretty cool.  I would love to meet anyone local to the PA/NJ area though, would be cool to say hello!

Wow......

 

So...the air bleeds for the secondary slow and the bowl vent are looped (loop at abck of carb) this is no good effectively closes off that air bleed pulls fuel if anything and the other bleed for main is capped with a Golf T........ no air to secondary emulsions......open them up......capped with a small orifice would be best I think.

 

The Primary slow jet is capped.....so it idles OK cause lots of fuel pulled through the slow emulsion.......Main is open......terribly lean...no vac......cap that with an orifice.

 

I'd also cap the ports on the front of the carb excpet the one goin to the Distributor Vac advance.

I will do exactly what you say.  I believe the carb hoses were indeed messed with because the car was in New Mexico and other high altitude places.  I am a total moron with this car, can you point out what exactly is wrong on the hose set up and what I should do?  Sorry for asking so much.

THe question still remains.  WHere in the heck is the fuel filter??

Thats a good question, but thinking back i don't think my 85' had the fuel filter loyales have in the engine bay or i guess not so much loyales but fuel injected EAs, i am actually quite positive i added an in line fuel filter to my 85'. That engine ran sweet...until one of the timing belts broke haha. I didn't even fix it, i EJ'd it!

Wow......

 

So...the air bleeds for the secondary slow and the bowl vent are looped (loop at abck of carb) this is no good effectively closes off that air bleed pulls fuel if anything and the other bleed for main is capped with a Golf T........ no air to secondary emulsions......open them up......capped with a small orifice would be best I think.

 

The Primary slow jet is capped.....so it idles OK cause lots of fuel pulled through the slow emulsion.......Main is open......terribly lean...no vac......cap that with an orifice.

 

I'd also cap the ports on the front of the carb excpet the one goin to the Distributor Vac advance.

I just went out and removed the golf t'd hose you referred too and the car idled a little bit higher and drove a tad better but not much.  I also removed the loop you mentioned in the back of the carb, that didnt seem to help.  I think all of the stuff on the front of the carb is capped.  I will upload a pic and circle some things shortly.