My MAF sensor has taken a dump
I cleaned it, didn't work. Still throwing the PO102 code. Looks like I
have to get a replacement. I have a 97 OBS. Is there such thing as a
performance MAF? I have a snorkus delete/CAI. I searched all the forums
but didnt find too much on the subject except a MAF from a 300 ZX. If
this is a performance "upgrade" is there anything else that needs to be
done when using the 300 ZX Maf? Thanks

You only need to upgrade if you're engine is pulling in more air then it used to. Such as having an engine with higher compression, larger cams, turbo, etc.

 

On a stock engine with basic bolt on mods, stick with a stock one.

 

It's also a common issue for those MAF sensors to take a crap and the new aftermarket versions are worthless. Best bet would be to source up a used one. I just recently got 4 @ $30 each from a local wrecker. It's the same MAF from '95-98/9 with the exception of the '99 2.5 SOHC engines that came in the 2.5RS and Forester.

I know that on the turbocharged EJs, most tuners recommend to replace your MAF and front o2 sensor with brand new, OEM parts before going for more power.

 

This is because as the sensors age, their scaling can "drift," meaning values like 0, 1, 2, 3, etc are now more like -0.2, 0.8, 1.7, 2.9 and so on.

 

Replaceing with new sensors could result in a bump in performance just by getting things back to new.

I just put an aftermarket MAF sensor in my 97 Nissan Pick Up.  A new OEM MAF, if the dealer could find one is $460, a reman OEM from NAPA is $430.  New aftermarket ones run from $20-70 each, I chose one that cost $40.  I read all the reviews first and about half had no trouble and half had problems.

 

Mine worked fine, after a couple of days.  I removed the battery leads while changing the MAF so that the computer would have to relearn its parameters.  Those who had issues I suspect did not take this step first.  Taking the computer back to the factory defaults should help it reprogram quicker.  It took a couple of minutes for the engine to settle down and idle normally but for the next couple of days, the engine would stall on the first idle after a warm start.  Now it runs like normal and no more stalling after the computer learned all the parameters of the new MAF.

Edited November 19, 201411 yr by keith3267

no, replace it with used ones, looking for performance from a MAF is a dead end street.  if you're concerned enough to even think about it - you're not going to like the results.

 

tons of us on here have them - i'll send you 1 for $20.

 

www.car-part.com

no, replace it with used ones, looking for performance from a MAF is a dead end street.  if you're concerned enough to even think about it - you're not going to like the results.

 

tons of us on here have them - i'll send you 1 for $20.

 

www.car-part.com

 

It's not a performance thing, it's a safety thing.  A MAF with the incorrect scaling can cause a lean charge condition that can quickly kill any engine.

 

There is a reason that COBB, GetADomTune, and other tuners suggest replacing the front o2 and MAF with new parts, OEM or not.

 

If your old MAF is toast and you just want to drive, used is fine, but the OP was asking about performance.

It's not a performance thing, it's a safety thing. A MAF with the incorrect scaling can cause a lean charge condition that can quickly kill any engine.

 

There is a reason that COBB, GetADomTune, and other tuners suggest replacing the front o2 and MAF with new parts, OEM or not.

 

If your old MAF is toast and you just want to drive, used is fine, but the OP was asking about performance.

I'd rather have a used OEM maf than a new aftermarket maf

There is no gain to be had with a different MAF on this engine.

The stock MAF can handle more air than this engine can ever pull in its stock configuration.

If you need some extra oomph, pop a set of Delta Torque cams in it.

 

It's not a performance thing, it's a safety thing. A MAF with the incorrect scaling can cause a lean charge condition that can quickly kill any engine.

 

There is a reason that COBB, GetADomTune, and other tuners suggest replacing the front o2 and MAF with new parts, OEM or not.

 

If your old MAF is toast and you just want to drive, used is fine, but the OP was asking about performance.

This is to minimize complaints. The only cars that greatly need that accuracy are turbo. An N/A car can adjust more than enough to account for a minor longterm change in signal output.

Edited November 22, 201411 yr by Fairtax4me

Awesome, thanks for the advice everyone!! I just went ahead and found a used oem from the local junkyard. 40 bucks. Cleaned it, re-installed and all is good. Even feels like it runs a bit better now.