I have a 96 legacy with the 2.2 threw the infamous knock sensor code. Went to change the sensor and the harness part of the plug came with it. Upon further inspection the previous owner had wired in a resistor to fix his problems. Now that I have the new sensor hard wired in the car runs like crap. So do more research, I check the vacuum lines, clean maf, egr, change spark plugs with ngk .044 gap and wires look really new. Go to start and it sounds like its trying to sieze??!?!? Wtf did I do? What am I missing? Im stuck in the mtns of Alaska so getting to autozone is a bit of a stretch unless I can limp it back up there. Right now though there are no cel's just sounds like death.

Did you have any symptoms before you changed the sensor?

It sounds like the engine is flooded for whatever reason, try starting with wide open throttle and see if it will start or clear out

It was sluggish prior to knock sensor and had the "hiccup" when i went to change the sensor the connector broke and all hell broke loose. Ill go try wot starting it and see what happens.

Wot = nothing....swapping spark plug wies to proper spark plugs= solution :-) it was dark when I was working on it and the daylight brought me my fix. Thank you for all your help.

Yeah, sometimes it's the simplest little things!  Good job!  

Now its throwing a p0301. Made it down the road before it happened though. Think I need to check the gap of the new spark plugs. If that doesnt fix it where should start looking.

Edited December 27, 201411 yr by ilovecake

I'm no expert but I'd check the plug wire connections--are they making good contact?  Might even consider new plug wires--make sure you get Subie OEM or NGKs (no parts store cheapie wires!)

They are making a good connection amd look darn near new,I'm concerned though as to what I messed up by fixing the previous owners knock sensor resistor fix that I've read about\seen. Could the wires (omnispark) be causing the issue based on their resistance? Do yall think the resistor in the knock sensor was matched up with the cheapy wires? Gah! I'm getting frustrated.

As I said earlier, I'd be very suspect of cheapie parts store wires--"Omnispark?"  Stick with Subaru OEM or NGK, recommended by a number of folks here.

 

How did you hook up your knock sensor after you broke the connector?

when it comes down to ignition don't skimp out I had a similar problem with parts house wires until I switch to the subaru OEM wires and NGK plugs ran like a top after the switch

I swapped the plugs with ngk got em gapped at this point and it still runs like poop. Mon I'll be hitting up a dealership for wires. On the knock sensor i solderd the two primary wires together,wrapped them then took the shielded part and braided it together while wrapping around the soldered\1st wrapped part. Then everything in a final layer of tape and heated on the ends. The knock sensor was tightened to 17ft lbs or whatever it is in the og location with the wire in the right spot. If i butchered the shielded wire install how else should\could I do it? Donor cars are a bit of a stretch up here.

I have used beldin lifetime wires on three separate Subaru's and have seen them in quite a few Subaru's here and have seen no issues caused by these wires. Just don't buy cheap wires

I swapped the plugs with ngk got em gapped at this point and it still runs like poop. Mon I'll be hitting up a dealership for wires. On the knock sensor i solderd the two primary wires together,wrapped them then took the shielded part and braided it together while wrapping around the soldered\1st wrapped part. Then everything in a final layer of tape and heated on the ends. The knock sensor was tightened to 17ft lbs or whatever it is in the og location with the wire in the right spot. If i butchered the shielded wire install how else should\could I do it? Donor cars are a bit of a stretch up here.

No need to hit the dealership for wires...just get a set of NGK wires (you can get them at parts stores (Advance Auto, etc. ~$64, but look for online coupons to get the price down).  They can also be ordered from Amazon ($41.86).  Two day shipping if you have Prime.

So I've been reading up on HLA's and im getting nervous. Really hoping its the wires. From endwrench

 

Note: The following diagnostics pertain to the 2.2L engine only.

• Valve train noise (clacking sound). Operate the engine for approximately

one hour before diagnosing HLAs as the problem. Do not rev the engine!

• If the rocker shaft relief valves are plugged, the rocker shaft oil pressure will

increase during low engine temperature operation. This could result in the

HLAs being forced part way out of the rocker arm sockets. A clacking

sound may be produced which is similar to collapsed HLAs. Engine misfire

may also occur during this condition.

If the relief valves will not hold pressure, the HLAs may collapse, again

producing a clacking sound.

Hooray! Did the test and hla's came back good. Switched wires today and she runs like a champ! Thank you to everyone on here. Its my only car and I have a 2 year old son and like most just trying to get by. Thank you again.

That's great to hear!