courtwarren Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 just got 1985 brat seems to start maybe a little better when cold not (consistent) and it will start after warmed, but need to play with key kid I got it from said just put new starter in it ,but I dont know if maybe he did replacment thinking this problem was that.Next they want little over 200 for new Ignition switch because of tilt steering -can I bye pass it with push button ? and would it be easier to get to what wires I need? to it under hood-hard for me to get down and fit under dash.Or could it be module or something else completely ?Also when I started it today the amp gauge started jumping from 12 to 18 volts , unrelated? ? thank you for your time court Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 readers may be confused like me - is it trouble turning engine over or is it turning over fine on cranking by starter and just not firing nicely ? There are many causes. First cause can be that you have Noahs old spark plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor. And air filter and fuel filter and fuel pump been on it since Adam was a boy. A strater relay can be wired in to keep load of ignition switch and it spin instead of click like a flat battery, dodgy earth etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman2 Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) You can replace the relay side of the ignition for much less. If that is what you are talking about. Turning the key and getting nothing or maybe a faint click in the column. Trace yours back and make sure it has the pink plug. I believe this is the replacement you need. Most places list the wrong switch relay for a Brat and it will not fit. http://www.partsgeek.com/9xmkl3c-subaru-dl-ignition-switch.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=MP&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Bing&gb=pp&utm_term=1982-1984+subaru+dl+ignition+switch+genuine+82-84+subaru+ignition+switch Here is another a little cheaper, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Starter-Switch-Original-Eng-Mgmt-IS67-/301241391391?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ABrat&hash=item462362d91f&vxp=mtr Edited January 8, 2015 by bratman2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courtwarren Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 first off thank you turn key to power everything lights up bells chime ,turn more to start may start first time or nothing , might turn a dozen times until it starts .when it starts, it starts strong runs good.Thats why I thought it maybe ignition switch or module, Did Not know of relay , is it inside or under hood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courtwarren Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 the 2 sites look to be for without tilt steering and I can not find anything about starter relay for 85 brat may it be called something else, partsgeek going to get back to me 48hr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 There is no starter relay in a stock brat. Many of us have added one to solve the click and no starter motor running problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman2 Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) They are for the tilt steering wheel! I replaced mine about 3 years ago. I have most likely missed named it a relay. It is the electrical side of the switch. Edited January 8, 2015 by bratman2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I may be confusing and or confused. I did extrapolate my experience with GLS and Loyales to Brats. The problem sounded the same. My suggestion only applies if Brats do not have starter relays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman2 Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 If I am understanding the op correct, turning the key sometimes gives nothing. Trying several times and she may start up as if nothing was wrong. If so that was the same thing my Brat started, actually four years ago, sometimes starts on first try and sometimes nothing. Engine would not even turn over. One day I noticed when it did it there was a ever so faint click in the column. I replaced the electrical side of the switch with the pigtail and pink connector. Has never done it since. I do remember some people stating years ago that pink connector could go bad also. It would have a slightly melted or burned appearance. The two links I put up are for Brats with tilt wheel. If someone is trying to sell you something different it is the wrong part. Not saying that is the op's problem cause at these ages our Subarus are they could be several problems causing the no start. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 They are for the tilt steering wheel! I replaced mine about 3 years ago. I have most likely missed named it a relay. It is the electrical side of the switch. This IS the switch. Not a relay. The non-electrical part of the ignition assembly is the "lock cylinder" There should be no difference in the switch itself tilt or no tilt. Only the lock cylinder would be different Switch itself comes off the back of the cylinder with a single small phillips screw. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) i am still a tiny bit confused when you hit the starter position (usually has spring tension resistance felt to this position in a healthy ignition switch) do you then hear the starter motor engage AND turn engine over each and every time? OR, do you get intermittent, sometimes turns over and sometimes not OR do you mean you get starter motor turn over each and every time, and sometimes the engine will fire and run, or sometimes not fire and run with starter position on switch released to IGN position ? The ignition module in the distributor usually gives a few odd no starts, then will start, run, drive OK for a while, few days, weeks etc, then finally no start for ever. The 18V if it is correct may be doing some harm. Test it with something direct off battery and alternator and replace alternator if showing more than 14.2 V Edited January 9, 2015 by jono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courtwarren Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 key dose have spring tension ,only occasionally dose it start the engine the rest of the time nothing,turn key and its like you hadn't done anything no click that i'm hearing,no starter noise amp gauge has no movement , in that start position, in key rotation if I push in a little harder on key not to turn more but in it then -sometimes- starts Parts store told me tilt steering ignition was one long continuous system of wire an harness from key all way down steering column to firewall? ?And thats why I want to instal a push button for starting just need to find right wire is that right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courtwarren Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Also replaced alternator that comes built in voltage took care of surging voltage thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) that is better description of the problem. a wallet friendly thing to do first is the relay trick. 1. Get a universal 'horn' relay of about 30A with four pins on it. Find a good place to secure close to starter solenoid yet out of harms way. Pins face down in case of water getting into things A relay with a fuse socket built into the front is even better - it is on the 30 terminal side of relay- power supply.If no fuse holder on fuse, fit one inline to the new power wire 2. The thick black wire that clips on to the starter solenoid ? Shopuld be pos power with ign switch in start position only each and every time Pull it off, needs a squeeze to release it sometimes It goes to terminal 86 of your new relay. 3. Connect terminal 85 of relay to a good engine earth or body earth /metal point. A good test at this stage is then IGN switch to start position. You should hear or feel the relay click inside each and every time you select 'start'position, maybe a click heard when back off start position. If this is the case things are looking good. If not don't bother looking at step 4. just yet - scream out for help 4. Proceed with providing a new fat wire from the chunky positive lead at the starter motor or battery if you want longer messy wiring. Supply this fat pos power wire to terminal 30 of the relay. A same fat wire as the one going from wire loom to starter solenoid before is a guide to size. Same size then needs to go from 87 to the what should be at present vacant male spade terminal on the starter motor solenoid. If this fixes problem, no need to worry about a new ignition switch just yet. No understand any of above - ask questions before starting the above steps ..... Edited January 11, 2015 by jono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman2 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I gave you a relatively cheap solution to your problem. The wiring harness does not run all the way to the firewall. It plugs in just a couple or three inches past the column under the dash. If you take the steering column covers off you can easily trace the wiring harness to the pink connector. It is a relative simple and cheap fix. Probably much easier than installing a push button. Worse case you are out $30bucks and a hour of your time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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