Yes stupid me, didnt replace the throw out bearing when I did my 4WD conversion.... Man that thing is LOUD. With the clutch in the thing is quite but when I let off the pedal its back to chirping. If I hold the throw out fork tight from inside the engine bay it also shuts up.

 

I might not have hooked up the throw out fork and clutch linkage properly. There is a big pin and holes for cotter pins that goes in perpendicular to the throw out fork. What is this for? Any way to shut up my bearing w/o pulling my engine and replacing it?

 

Thx

um no:-p

 

you may not need to pull the motor completely. I was able to do a rear main seal on the side the road once. not fun but I got it done with a minimal amout of tools in under 4 hours.

 

that said in a nice garage with tools and floor jacks Ect. it should be no problem.

 

you may have a problem with the return spring or the clutch adjutment. that my be what killed it in the first place.

 

I cannot visualize what cotter pins go in there but there are two little spring clips that hold the bearings in place.

top is fro the clutch, bottom is for the hh

what's wrong with your hood? mine flies open at 30, done it twice, once was not good enough for me, now I MAKE SURE it's shut

ya mine flies up at 40-50. hoodpins dont do squat if you forget them, ontop of your spare tire.

motor pull!

um no

 

you may not need to pull the motor completely. I was able to do a rear main seal on the side the road once. not fun but I got it done with a minimal amout of tools in under 4 hours.

 

that said in a nice garage with tools and floor jacks Ect. it should be no problem.

 

you may have a problem with the return spring or the clutch adjutment. that my be what killed it in the first place.

 

I cannot visualize what cotter pins go in there but there are two little spring clips that hold the bearings in place.

Did you just slide the tranny back? or pull forward on the engine? My driveshaft is welded in so sliding the tranny back is not really an option

 

Wonder if I could just loosten the bellhousing bolts and pull that motor forward just enough to reach in and do the TO bearing? The 2 studs at the bottom might not let me pull it to far I know the ruber mounts have plenty of room to flex.

the bandaids go on your ears, and scrapes

invest in an engine lift

drive it until it blows

if it's broke already, does it matter if it breaks more?

YTou need to hook up a clutch return spring. Get one off of a DL, or hook up your hill holder. You have to keep the TOB from constantly riding on the pressure plate, or it will burn up and make noise like this one. It is probably siezed, and is grinding on the pressure plate fingers. My friend drove one like this on his Datsun 510, and ended up puttling the throw-out bearing THROUGH the pressure plate!

If you cannot drop the drive shaft you only have one other option and thats the motor forward or out. do you have an enging hoist? you may be able to pull it forward with the fans out of the way and some other stuff disconected. I would suggest just pulling it so you can work in there easy and inspect the pressure plate and clutch.

 

when I did it I went tranny back. what a heavy bugger