I was unable to find the repair kit with c clips. So ended up grinding off the ends of the old rivets. I was planning to use bolts/nuts but the mounting holes were the same size as the orginal pin so I ended up just reusing them without the broken nylon. After I wirebrushed and hammered them back together, I hit them with a spot of weld. If I need to replace them later I will just repeat the process. Dipped them in some rust converter, planning on painting them tonight.

Great job!

 

It looks like pretty bad weather there. I hope you miss all of the bad storms

Great job!

 

It looks like pretty bad weather there. I hope you miss all of the bad storms

Thanks! the snow is finally starting to melt away, I can actually get to the parts car now

Hey look what finally came in! And it looks like the right one too! Now if only I can manage to salvage enough chrome strips for it

 

Hey look what finally came in! And it looks like the right one too! Now if only I can manage to salvage enough chrome strips for it

Edited March 27, 201511 yr by Verdurous

It's been a while but with the Christmas break I was able to get a great deal
more done. Hopefully it will be inspected and on the road again next
week. Here's some updates.

Back in early October I completely resealed, rust treated, primed, and re-coated the floors. Trying to stop that evil rust from the inside as best as I can. I chipped up the dried out stock sound deadening tar because I believe it was trapping moisture/salt underneath and progressing rust. I used a rubberized bed liner instead. A nice thick coat, to make up for it. I did not have all the factory plugs so I ended up cutting up an old oil bottle (black plastic) and using a marine silicone rtv adhesive. The factory rubber padding was not bad, so I power washed it and reinstalled it.

In late October I rerouted the e-brake cables to compensate for the 4" lift, I also had to modify the 4x4 linkage. I end up combining two of them together with an extension the length of the lift. Surprisingly it end up working out just fine. I painted the handle with a vinyl dye, and used undercoating on the linkage itself. I would like to shorten the throw on the main shift level itself at some point as it feels sloppy, but it works fine for now.

Early November I started the dreaded task of more interior restore. I had a pile of miss matched panels that were nearly ruined. The results as you can see were night and day.

I did about the same thing on my hatch to the floor pan but i welded all the holes shut or put rubber plugs in

was trying to get more pic's to upload but it's just saying error. I'll try again in a little while.

I did about the same thing on my hatch to the floor pan but i welded all the holes shut or put rubber plugs in

Yeah, I guess you noticed the rust build up under that old tar too   It might have been good when it was new, but that stuff just seemed to crack and hold in all the moisture. I see you had some of the same spots starting. Felt good to get that taken care of.

Once again: Awesome Job! 

 

Thank you for sharing the photos of the process with us.

 

Your little helper is Beautiful and Happy for helping you, on the Subaru.

 

Also I got the Help of my little daughter, sometimes...

 

Kind Regards.

So I got a new windshield in today, drove the car from one garage to the next. Windshield looks awesome, when I went to move the car back to the other garage I decided to leave it running to charge the battery and warm up a little. Now I haven't really run it at all since I put the new heater core in, but when I came back my radiator cap was loose and the overflow was pissing on the ground. I am hoping I just didn't put it on tight enough. I did not see any water in the oil, or oil in the water.. but damn I only have about 900 miles on that engine since the rebuild.. a head gasket would suck. Seems to start and run fine, didn't really see any smoke.. but my coolent was obvious down some. I've have to diagnose it more this weekend when I get some time, was hoping to have it inspected and on the road by next week..

Could of had a air bubble and boiled over. If you haven't burped it facing up hill i would try that and let it run for awhile letting the fans/thermostat cycle. If your seeing a constant stream of bubbles and the radiator is pressured i would say it's a head gasket.

yeah really hoping it's just an air

bubble... was really looking forward to having it back on the road soon.

Quick question, what's the torque spec of the intake manifold bolts? Also do you guys use permitex ir something in the manifild gaskets? pretty sure it's my issue btw. Using felpro... and honestly they fell pretty thin.

I Smear the intake manifold's Gaskets with a thin layer of Ultra Cooper Silicone at each side, only for my peace of mind. Avoid using aftermarket Gaskets there and you'll avoid future problems.

 

Kind Regards.

Do you know a subaru dealer normal carries these? Autozone, Advanced, and Napa had none in stock

Subaru #14035aa150 is what I have for intake gasket.

ETA on getting the gasket is Wednesday:( cars torn down now need to move it

Thank you for the part number TomRhere, the OEM manifold gaskets are now installed, with the copper spray recommended by JesZek. They are so much thicker than the felpros it put my mind at ease over the intake!

 

However after doing everything I found the culprit turned out to be the lower intake on the heater core. Idling over some fresh powder snow, the subie was marking it's territory with a very small drip coming from the lower hose. The lower input wasn't getting a very good seal, I'm going to have to do something about it this weekend. In the mean time I have been having a blast in the snow.... just no heat atm! burrrrr.... For those of you living in cold places what thermostat do you recommend? Also... anyone with weber 32/26 tuning advice is needed... Getting some really bad mileage atm.. running a bit too rich.

How many miles to the gallon are you getting? Are you doing a lot of short trips or do you commute with it? My dads stock hatch has 241 thousand miles on it with a weber 32/36 that i put on and tuned. It gets about 22-24 with a mix of highway and short trips. The distributor is fully advanced on it and it has quite a bit of power. It helps your gas mileage if you stay out of the second barrel too. Your carb could be jetted wrong for where your at. I know skylar is getting 16-18 with his lifted hatch which is about what your gonna get with it. My hatch with a ej22 gets anywhere from 25 on the highway to about 13-14 for short trips/playing around.

Edited January 22, 201610 yr by turbosubarubrat

That is nice. I am restoring a 1983 GL 4x4 Hatchback as well. I just got the engine rebuilt, new struts..... I have put a nice chunk of change into this little guy and have ran into a big problem. I cannot find a clutch bearing, Koyo #DAC2358N anywhere. This car has been in shops for well over a year and 3 months in a transmission shop for this part alone. If anyone can help me find one please let me know. Thanks and good luck on yours.

That is nice. I am restoring a 1983 GL 4x4 Hatchback as well. I just got the engine rebuilt, new struts..... I have put a nice chunk of change into this little guy and have ran into a big problem. I cannot find a clutch bearing, Koyo #DAC2358N anywhere. This car has been in shops for well over a year and 3 months in a transmission shop for this part alone. If anyone can help me find one please let me know. Thanks and good luck on yours.

The throw out bearing should have been in the clutch kit.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1268311,parttype,1968