deliadee Posted May 23, 2004 Share Posted May 23, 2004 This seems to be a common problem...lol OK After having a new engine put in the car last summer we started having problems, the height light would flash, then the fron drivers side would get low and refuse to come back up until the car had been driven around a bit. last week they all went and the car is riding low and bumpy, awful. we took it in and were told that the compressor is coming on, and the shocks will hold air so the problem seems to be in the brain or relays or something, mechanic knew next to nothing about them. anyway we cant decide what to do next, repai? replace with some other kind of air shocks? or replace with regular struts? we were told you need springs also? anyone know whats involved and whats cheaper? we havent a lot of money! I looked at aftermarket shocks but have no idea which ones would work...thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted May 23, 2004 Share Posted May 23, 2004 My vote is to replace with regular struts. Quick, easy, Cheap. you can probably get a good set at a junkyard for under $100.. I could do all 4 in under an hour. Pick your replcaement struts based on the amount of ground clearance you want (XT, Sedan, Wagon, 2WD, 4WD..theres 3-4 different strut lengths.. any will work though) My 87 wagon is also an ex-air ride car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deliadee Posted May 23, 2004 Author Share Posted May 23, 2004 You need springs and brackets too we were told? But its easy to do? Do you need any special tools? My husband works on his Toyota pickup so he has some tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted May 23, 2004 Share Posted May 23, 2004 the front and rear struts are 3 pieces..strut cartridge, spring and strut top. If you go to a wrecking yard, each one comes off as one piece. so, when you pull them , you end up with 4 completely assembled struts. no need to disassemble them. The fronts have 3 12mm nuts up top and 2 14mm bolts on the bottom. plus theres a bracket welded to the strut that a brake line runs through. You have the option of dicconnecting the brake line, or cutting a notch in the bracket.. I usually cut the notch with a little cordless jigsaw The rears have 2 17mm bolts up top and 1 14mm(I think) on the bottom. No special brackets to be bought.. If you buy the complete assemblies from a wrecking yard, there are no special tools needed(except for either a line wrench or something to cut the brake line bracket as mentioned above)..Its a straight bolt on swap.. Pretty quick and easy. PS.. my other car is a Toyota.. I am always happy to work on my soob after having to do something on the toyota. If your husband enjoys wrenching even a little, he will find the subaru an absolute delight to work on.. Easiest car I have ever tinkered with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted May 23, 2004 Share Posted May 23, 2004 i had the same problem , check the air line going into strut at the top , it could be a o- ring out , put your ear close to the strut and you might be able to hear it leaking , i played around with the black air line and fixed it , mine was loose , , my light will only flash when the switch is put on hi , then when you drive above 55mph it will not flash , then when you drop below 55mph it will flash again , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deliadee Posted May 24, 2004 Author Share Posted May 24, 2004 thanks people, very good info! I think most likely from what I have heard we will go with changing them out to regular struts seems like a good way to avoid further issues, besides I think things might have been damadged when the car overheated badly (why we had to put in a new engine) a lot of stuff was affected we are only just finding out about, the car got VERY hot, melted the tail pipe, radiater, about cooked the tranny fluid...might have cooked something in the air shock system too:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Log1call Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 Hi, your problem could be as simple as an air leak somewhere. I would get some soapy water and a little brush and go around looking for leaks, especially where the mechanics have been working. If it started since they worked on it then it's likely that they bumped a hose and cracked it. If you don't find any leaks that can be seen externally then it could be the control valves are leaking internally. Some of them come apart and are easy to clean. You are propably thinking that it would have to be a big leak to not get pumped up anyway, but that's not how it works. A small leak will let one end or corner down and the pumps computer gets confused. I'm a mechanic and have fixed several Hondas with similar problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 I just replaced the air shocks on my XT6 with standard struts. On the older rigs and especially yours with the overheating issue, the system just keeps getting worse. It will keep going bad no matter how much you fix it. My car only has 80K on it, but the system was nickle and dimeing me to death. I actually found on my last leak that one of the seloniods on a shock was leaking, that was the last straw. You wont regret the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegularis Posted May 28, 2005 Share Posted May 28, 2005 I have the same problem with my newly purchased GL-10 wagon. One dealer told me that I would need to purchase all the mounting brackets, etc. in order to change the struts to the non-air-type. Anyone know about this one? I called Checker Auto Parts, and can get all four struts, probably will by for 4WD, as mine is that, and go from there, if I don't have to swap out other stuff ($300 for all) otherwise, to the junkyard I go, and/or maybe get it "height aduster," repaired. Also, I am wondering that I will sell this car soon, so want to keep it as cheap as possible, but if I "fix it," fix it right the first time, with as many new parts as possible. The engine was rebuilt 30K ago, and... Also, I read on another model (BRAT?) you could just disconnect it, under the driver's seat carpet, anyone know about this? Thanks much, Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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