So I did head gaskets on my brat.  I had several other things going on.so it took me several months to get it  back together.  

 

Now it cranks but has no hint of catching.  

 

I have spark on all plugs.  52 psi fuel pressure, and I hear the 4 fuel injectors clicking.  I tried to check timing but the battery got too low last night, and it was time to call it a day.

 

The check valve in my compression tool is bad but i have at least 90 psi in cyl 1.  

 

The trouble light on the ecu does not light up.

 

Do I have a massive air bubble in the fuel system?  The pump stays on so long as the key is in the on position.

I might go buy a noid light this afternoon. 

 

 Is there a crank position sensor that didn't get plugged in?

 

Thanks in Advance!

Edited August 5, 201510 yr by coronan

52 psi of fuel pressure seems awefully high for an EA81T, isn't it supposed to be around 38 or so?

My book says 26 - 36 at idle.

65 psi maximum.  

36 psi NOT running

About 29 at idle

 

55 is too much.

So how much do folks turn up their fuel pressure to when they are adding  boost?

The FPR does not come up on Rockauto, Napa, oriley, or autozone.

 

Any recomendations on where to get a replacement FPR???   Part #?

Isn't it integrated in to the fuel rail?

So how much do folks turn up their fuel pressure to when they are adding  boost?

The FPR does not come up on Rockauto, Napa, oriley, or autozone.

 

Any recomendations on where to get a replacement FPR???   Part #?

Isn't it integrated in to the fuel rail?

 

I don't think you can order this part indiviually, even if you can still order the assembly it's part of.  I recall another member having trouble with this and having to source an aftermarket FPR, that will probably be the route you want to take, if you can't source an OEM replacement.

 

When people raise the boost, they generally use a rising rate FPR, or an adjustable RRFPR.  This is the quick/dirty/ugly way to increase fuel on older turbocharged cars.  On many newer cars you can simply ask the computer to deliver more fuel, but very few people have bothered to crack the codes for these ancient ECUs.

You say you have spark at all 4 plugs.

 

 But,, is the spark happening when it should?

 

Check disty timing and plug leads for proper orientation.

 

You could be off on the disty, and/or have the plug wires off/out of order on the cap.

 

Just my .02.

Dizzy spins CCW,   Firing order 1, 3, 2, 4.   #1 is in the back right of the Dizzy.  Cyl 1 is in the Front Passenger side. 

 

Right?

spins ccw from memory

 

1 3 front pots, 2, 4 rear pots

 

#1 is that one

 

so ...as pressure builds up at #1 - use finger or comp tester blow up a rubber glove ? ..and you find #1 at TDC ...where in cap is rotor button pointing ? at #1 lead terminal ?

Edited August 5, 201510 yr by jono

pulled #1 plug and checked TDC matches the crank and dizzy and piston.  

Timing while cranking is about 16 - 17* advanced.

Noid light works on #1 injector.  Looks like it might be synced with #1 spark.  Hard to tell. Both noid light and spark tester light up, with close timing.

 

Pulled the FPR outlet hose it was wet but NOT returning any fuel to the tank.  (BAD)

FPR may be plugged.  pulled vac hose and appied vacuum with a pump.  No change in fuel pressure (still 50ish).

 

Next i'm going to check actual pressure at the injectors.  I expect to find none.

 

I'm looking for links to aftermarket fuel pressure regulator threads.

 

Thanks!

Just kidding. Upon thinking about why i had no fuel returning to the tank..... I studied the fuel injection diagram again and found that i had the fuel supply and return line switched. Fuel need to go to the manifold > injectors > FPR > return to tank. The fitting on the top of the FPR is the return line.

 

I have found the vacuum and fuel diagrams to be less then desirable from the Finley manual and Heyes Manual. The manuals are especially light on MPFI and Turbo info.

The diagrams that are there go from component to component but do not specify component identification or label the manifolds. Or where they actually are in the car.

 

Despite my attempt to label and go slow. Its difficult to check my work with poor diagrams.

Edited August 6, 201510 yr by coronan

So Fuel "in" and "out" switched to how they should be.  I now have fuel returning to the tank and 36 psi of fuel pressure.  

 

Now the car starts but does not idle.  I could rev it to 3000/4000 rpm.

 

Pics tomorrow of the engine bay.

Here is how i have everything plumbed.  Maybe I can get some help identifying each hose. Put labels in the photos and make a sticky for others.

I attempted to keep things straight by color coding with zip ties.

 

Violet = Vacuum

Red = Fuel

Blue = Water (coolant)

Pink = Pressure (boost)

 

 

 

 

Edited August 6, 201510 yr by coronan

I could never figure out where this hose went.  It comes off the center of the spider manifold.  It would contain boost / vacuum.

 

Draft.  Needs more detail.

 

I had other business to tend to for the last 3 weeks.  But I'm back on this.

 

Got the fuel lines righted.  Not it starts right away but does not idle for more than a few sec.  

I can rev it if i finesse the throttle.

 

ECU has codes 

11: Ignition Sys - No reference pulse

 

12: Starter switch remains in off 

 

The starter does not appear to be sticking.

 

Is the reference pulse referring to crank position?  Which comes from the Dizzy?  

My manual says its a photo eye but there is no adjusting it.  

 

Is this true for ea81?

 

Thanks!

Edited August 20, 201510 yr by coronan

Reference pulse is just the ignition pulses from coil -.

They go to the ECU thru a grey shielded wire.(BY wire in the red 9 pin check connector #1)

Kind of a cam position signal.

Ea-81T dizzy is Hall effect ,not optoelectronic.

Code 11 is normal w/engine stopped.

 

Code 12 means the ECU never saw voltage from the starter solenoid.

Solenoid connects to ECU thru the BW wire in check connector #1.

Maybe a harness problem.

I cannot remember if this one is normal w/stopped engine.

 

Check the intake boot and associated plumbing for unmetered air leaks.

I have stood at the f front of the car and cranked the starter with a jumper. I can't hear any engine leaks.

You will not hear an unmetered air leak.

Unlikely you would hear a small vacuum leak either.

All those hardened PCV hoses need to seal too.

 

Could be the cause of no idle.

So I found the massive leak.  The PCV inlet under the snorkel hose.   Now it runs like a champ.  Lots of torque but no Boost.  

I drove it to work and back.  No new codes.  

I cant hear any boost leaks.

My boost gauge fluctuates +/- 1lb.