Hello! I am looking for some guidance as to the best way to off-load my Outback.
General Info:
-1998 Subaru Legacy Outback Wagon, Limited Edition
-200,000+ Miles.
-Passed inspection in April, new tires.
-Issue: runs well for its age but has a BIG oil leak. Rear main seal I think. Leaves a 3-4" oil spot every time it's driven. We have to park it over a pile of kitty litter. Too expensive compared to the value of the car to fix ($1,000.+). Mechanic says engine is in good shape despite the leak(s).
-We're in New England, strong subaru market.

My options:
- Junk it for parts. Mechanic said $300.
- Trade into a place like Carmax
- Be patient and look for a buyer capable of doing the work themselves.

Before I spend lots of time researching and running it all over town to get estimates and such, I figured I would seek some advice. Thank you so much!

More likely to be a leaking oil separator plate, which takes just as much labor to replace as a rear main seal because its right next to it.

 

An outback in similar condition here could sell for $1,000-1,500, depending on how much rust is on it.

 

If you feel it isn't worth it to try to fix, craigslist it. Someone who knows these cars will certainly buy it.

My 95 LS had the same problem. Finally said screw it, pulled the engine, replaced that plate and the oil pan gasket and no more oil leaks. Took part of a day and about $100. The plan is to get to 300K before finally retiring it. 

Any car in decent shape and is still drive-able (particularily a Subaru) is worth a $1,000. I agree with you, it is not worth spending $1,000+ out of your pocket, and your time to fix it, if you are not the home driveway mechanic repair type.

 

If the leak is from the valve covers, you might try adding an "oil stop leak" addivive product to the oil, when changing the oil.  I have been doing that for years to both my 98 and 99 Outbacks. It doesn't stop the oil leak, but reduces the leakage by about 50%, and I drive on.

 

I agree with Fairtax on listing the car for sale on Craig's list on line. Pretty sure you can sell for $1,000, if car is in decent shape. A trade in at Carmax will yield you $400 at most. Wrecking yard will give your $200.

Depending on other factors I have heard others say $1000 can buy a lot of oil. If it's not driven a lot or finances are tight at all some might just buy inexpensive oil and simply keep it topped off. Junking for parts for $300 is a bit of an odd suggestion since I think you may be able to get more than that just driving it to a scrap yard. If it's got aluminum wheels those alone can be scrapped as clean aluminum if the tires are off them.

I'm on the other coast so we don't have the rust issues you do.  Without seeing pictures of the car and knowing how the rust is (especially strut towers) I can't say for sure one way or the other on this car.

 

What I can say is here a good running late '90's outback with the oil leaks fixed would sell for $2,500+.  

 

If the car was in this neck of the woods and the rust from being on the east coast wasn't severe I would say fix it because I know it would sell for at least $1k more fixed.

 

Being over there though I would get all the rust spots checked first, specifically any that can cause it to fail a safety inspection later.

 

If it has at least 3 to 4 years of life left in it I would fix it.  

 

If you sell it for $1,000 your going to have to buy a new car.  If you junk it for $300 your going to need to buy a new car.  If you trade it into carmax your buying a new car.

 

New (used) car payments are usually at least $100/month.  In 12 months that's $1,200.  If you can fix it for $1,000 and get 2 more years out of it that is a savings of at least $1,400.......

 

Just my perspective.

I hear you and many people work (particularly on this forum) that way and it's a good fit.

 

But they may have the feeling that they could put $1,000 into it now....and another big hunk of change later....

 

headgaskets

timing belt (pulleys, tensioner, etc)

torque bind

front diff

 

and that is a very real possibility I can't fault someone for.

I hear you and many people work (particularly on this forum) that way and it's a good fit.

 

But they may have the feeling that they could put $1,000 into it now....and another big hunk of change later....

 

headgaskets

timing belt (pulleys, tensioner, etc)

torque bind

front diff

 

and that is a very real possibility I can't fault someone for.

 

That's why I clarified it by talking about rust and "IF" the car is going ot make it 3 or 4 more years.  Some stuff you can't check but a good mechanic can go over all the major items and give a good idea of there condition in an hour or less.

These are all very helpful suggestions so far!! And, yes, we are DONE putting anymore of our $ into this car. Its time.

Keep the good info coming!

Thank you! This is really helping.

Depending on other factors I have heard others say $1000 can buy a lot of oil. If it's not driven a lot or finances are tight at all some might just buy inexpensive oil and simply keep it topped off. Junking for parts for $300 is a bit of an odd suggestion since I think you may be able to get more than that just driving it to a scrap yard. If it's got aluminum wheels those alone can be scrapped as clean aluminum if the tires are off them.

 junk yards around here give around 250 for a full car driven into the yard a friend of mine recently scrapped his car due to rust the rear wheel was about to fall off and front sub frame was almost non excistant i was surprised it made it to the junk yard without falling apart on the trip. anyways scrap is down they aren't giving much for cars that's how i got my 95 for 300 scrap yard was gonna give them 250 i gave them 300 and drove it away. im not saying scrap it now but im sure you could get more than 300 for it any day of the week. i had to do quite a few things to my 300 dollar subaru to get it road worthy again.