Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Ultimate Subaru Message Board

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

1990 subaru legacy won't start

Featured Replies

So I just traded my old Toyota pickup for my first subaru , I got the subaru it didn't run the guy just told me it was the fuel pump so I replaced it and fuel filter , but still won't start, I'm getting fuel, but there is no spark I checked fuses they are good, I did some looking around and people talked about sensors maybe but I'm not sure How to test them , and not sure what else to look at, it cranks but won't start.I was going to replace the ignition coil but I thought maybe I should ask first sense it's my first subaru

No spark could be due to a dead crank or cam sensor.

 

There will be a code stored in the ECU of either of those is bad. Search how to get OBD1 codes, that should give you some clues where to start.

  • Author

I read how to get the codes with connecting the black and green wires but it's almost like they are wired to close together and I don't wanna just start ripping on wires to try to get them loose not sure if all of them are really close

Just cut the tape back on the harness some. They usually have about 6-8" of length just taped up in the harness. Once you get them loose there's plenty of wire.

My experience with subarus obd1 systems are that people like to tape the connecters in very inaccessible locations. Once they are cut loose of the tape holding them on place they are quite easy to connect.

  • Author

So I cut some tape and still won't reach its all tangled up in the bundle of wires , is there any way or will I have to cut all the tape for the whole bundle? And would a battery possible cause it not to get enough power to start ? I hooked up jumper cables but it could be a bad battery? And so there's two green T shaped connectors do I have to connect both to the 2 T shaped black ones ? Sorry for all the questions I've only had fords and Toyotas never a car let alone a subaru

  • Author

So I did as it told me to, said itd be like one long flash than one short , mine just kept flashing no long no short ,just flashing until I turned off the key , unplugged the wire and turned the key on and it was solid so it's not like it always flashes. Maybe I'm doing something wrong or ?

  • Author

Just was looking around, so in one of the pictures it shows 2 green and 2 black connectors on the left side . I looked around and I only see 1 black and 2 green connectors should I have that second connector ?

Yes, suggest checking the wiring harness sometimes they are taped way back in hard to get to places.

It seems like if the connectors were never used then the original factory tape is still on there that needs to be cut back to get the wires accessible. The other black is probably just trapped in there somewhere.

 

Is the timing belt broken per chance? I can't remember if that will cause no spark but obviously it definitely will cause no start.

It seems like if the connectors were never used then the original factory tape is still on there that needs to be cut back to get the wires accessible. The other black is probably just trapped in there somewhere.

 

Is the timing belt broken per chance? I can't remember if that will cause no spark but obviously it definitely will cause no start.

 

yes, a broken belt will cause a "no spark" situation. Timing belt would have been my first suggestion - before sensors.

 

timing belt turns cam sprocket which triggers cam sensor (drivers side) - if the cam sprocket isnt turning, the cam sensor has no input, thus no spark.

 

as for the 2nd black connector, it is up in there, just need to peel back more tape - on my 90, one was quite short and kind of a pain to get to.

If the belt did break than it would sound weird when cranking over as well as if its spinning faster since the will be no compression with the valves not moving.

 

There is not neccisarilly any reason to suspect the belt yet anyway, timing belts fail just a frequently as sensors.

Edited by mikaleda

  • Author

I checked the belts yesterday and they were tight and none were broken. I havnt got a chance to look for the connector today yet.

Right on it may very well not be the timing belt it's just something easy to check that can break if left go too long and will cause no start. It's not either of the two visible belts, those are the power steering / alt and a/c belts (if it has a/c), you'd have to remove the small cover sort of near the coolant overflow to check it (unless of course the timing covers are already missing/removed/broken/not put back on previously).

My post above yours re  " . . .  need help with diagnosis" has a couple of pictures that might help with the connection for the OBD diagnosis.

My connector wire was too short, had obviously never been used. I cut it and used a jumper.

Good luck, John aka Kenneth

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

sorry for late reply, was busy with work and all that good stuff, so as i stated above all the belts are good, today i went to the junk yard and got a CAM sensor and replaced mine, still just cranks, no start nothing, i have not messed with the diagnosis connectors yet. Just from experience what else could it be? I'm getting no spark, just cranks, could it possibly be the ignition crank or ignition ignitor ? not sure if you can test those, thanks again.

Could be a bad ignition control module, could be a bad crank sensor. Best way to find out is using the OBD system.

  • Author

It seems to crank normal doesnt sound fast. So I found the two black connectors and connected them turned the key on, nothing, check engine light just continue's to flash, not like a long than short flash but just constant flashing, so does that mean that nothing is triggering the CEL??

Whenever you have an ignition problem the first step is to make sure power is getting to it. Make sure the fusible links are good along with the fuses under the hood and the dash. Then make sure power is getting to the ignition system. Purchase a factory service manual for the car off of Ebay. The best source of information you can have for the car. Since it is an older car you will need it for various things as they come up. Also purchase a digital voltmeter and learn how to use it if you don't already know how. Another vital piece of equipment.

 

You will really like how the Soob drives, especially in the snow.

  • Author

So I did check fuses not to long ago and fuses where good to go, I have a multimeter, good idea with the manual to order one, will it tell you how to test to see if it gets power

I would try the ignition control module, they can be picked up fairly cheap used. I don't beleive that will throw a code so that would be my next guess

  • Author

so went to junk yard replaced the ignition module for like $10, tested the ignition coil, it was good to go, what else is there to check? I haven't checked the crank sensor yet because it is snowing pretty good outside. I have checked all I can think and that you guys have mentioned, my hopes for this car is almost next to none.

Edited by Alexhagen

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in

Sign In Now

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.